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Best Cast Iron Heads

  • Thread starter Thread starter Grabbin' Asphalt
  • Start date Start date Aug 23, 2013
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Grabbin' Asphalt

10 Year Member
Jun 10, 2013
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Aug 23, 2013
#1
  • Aug 23, 2013
  • #1
I have GT40p milled/ported heads currently. I chose them because of my durability needs for a DD and because of very long roads trips. Any where from 1000-1500 mile trips, where if anything were to happen they would have a better chance to survive with a major catastrophe.
So other than the GT40p's I currently have,

"Is there any other iron heads in past production vehicles of any sorts that are bad ass heads or that are made by any of the current leading companies??"
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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#2
  • Aug 23, 2013
  • #2
World Products Windsor Sr.
RHS
Roush 200's
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
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#3
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #3
+1 on the RHS.

Joe
 

f8tlfiveo

My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
Aug 8, 2007
1,585
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Lancaster, PA
Aug 24, 2013
#4
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #4
Grabbin' Asphalt said:
I have GT40p milled/ported heads currently. I chose them because of my durability needs for a DD and because of very long roads trips. Any where from 1000-1500 mile trips, where if anything were to happen they would have a better chance to survive with a major catastrophe.
So other than the GT40p's I currently have,

"Is there any other iron heads in past production vehicles of any sorts that are bad ass heads or that are made by any of the current leading companies??"
Click to expand...
I think my car is pretty reliable, but 1500 mile trips, no way. You actually drive yours that far?
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
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Aug 24, 2013
#5
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #5
TFS high ports
 
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NIKwoaC

中國製造
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Aug 24, 2013
#6
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #6
Just curious, why do you think iron would be any more reliable than aluminum? OEMs have been putting aluminum heads on production cars for a long time.
 
Reactions: Gearbanger 101, 88LX5.Oh and f8tlfiveo

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
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#7
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #7
Thi
stykthyn said:
TFS high ports
Click to expand...
This one right here! The heads I just picked up from Rick one of the first sets of aluminum heads trick flow made off the iron head design
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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#8
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #8
f8tlfiveo said:
I think my car is pretty reliable, but 1500 mile trips, no way. You actually drive yours that far?
Click to expand...
I don't see an issue I mean I used to DD. mine and would put 500-1000 on it a week and had no issue , also planning on driving down to mustang week from NY this year
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
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#9
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #9
Don't use durability as a standard. Chances are, if you have a catastrophic failure bad enough to ruin your head, it's probably going to ruin the rest of your engine as well. And as stated by NIK, the OEM has been using aluminum heads on vehicle for years now. As the matter of fact....I don't even think you can buy a car today without them?

If you want it to really perform, you need to upgrade to decent aluminum heads. Otherwise, be content with the power your GT40's are putting out and stick with what ya got.
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#10
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #10
f8tlfiveo said:
I think my car is pretty reliable, but 1500 mile trips, no way. You actually drive yours that far?
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm talking as soon as your gas tank gets close to "E' fill up keep driving 1500 miles. Drove across Texas to El Paso from Georgia, in Texas 150-200 miles between exits before any life forms, kinda scary. Drove to Winnipeg from Georgia and lots of other places. If a hose bursts or stat goes out, I'd rather replace small cheap stuff than a warped head on the road. And I can carry those parts. In todays world yes aluminum is everywhere but when they over heat it's not a cheap fix.
In my car everything is pretty solid, it's just my piece of mind on the open road.
 
Last edited: Aug 24, 2013

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
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#11
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #11
I can't see how aluminum will diminish that type of service but if you are sold on iron I would stick with your P heads.
 
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Grabbin' Asphalt

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#12
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #12
Yeah, I don't think I'll mess with adding more iron with more $$$. Gt40p's are on now anyways, just use that $$$ later for a good deal somewhere for aluminum set. Which now leads me to a great poll question .......hahahaha.
 

f8tlfiveo

My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
Aug 8, 2007
1,585
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Lancaster, PA
Aug 24, 2013
#13
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #13
TOOLOW91 said:
I don't see an issue I mean I used to DD. mine and would put 500-1000 on it a week and had no issue , also planning on driving down to mustang week from NY this year
Click to expand...
I used to daily my 88 lx, no issues. What I mean is driving long distances away from home, like for me to drive to Florida 850 miles away. I trust my car to go in a 200 mile radius but not a 850 mile one way, that's a long tow if something goes wrong
 
J

jAEded

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#14
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #14
IMO, if you're stuck on iron I think you probably already have the best head. With a good port and polish you can outflow some of the untouched aluminum heads and at least come close to some of the better alum ones.

I went with the gt40x for similar reasons as you have. Not saying they're the best if youre building a all out race motor but I trust Fords' engineering well enough for a DD.
 
Last edited: Aug 24, 2013
J

jAEded

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#15
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #15
Here is a couple good references.

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/headflow.htm
http://www.carbdford.com/tech/flowdata.htm
 
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mikestang63

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#16
  • Aug 24, 2013
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Well, I've been looking to replace my GT40's I pulled off an explorer last year with some used alum heads. People want 700-900 for used heads, and after you factor in the 200-300 to get them cleaned and checked out, you are almost at the same price as new. I've called about 5 different sets of heads on CL and every one had bent valves or other problems. For 1000 to 1100 you can get a set of new TFS 170's.
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
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#17
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #17
mikestang63 said:
Well, I've been looking to replace my GT40's I pulled off an explorer last year with some used alum heads. People want 700-900 for used heads, and after you factor in the 200-300 to get them cleaned and checked out, you are almost at the same price as new. I've called about 5 different sets of heads on CL and every one had bent valves or other problems. For 1000 to 1100 you can get a set of new TFS 170's.
Click to expand...
Where are you finding TFS 170's for $1,000-$1,100 a pair?

Lets also keep in mind that the TFS are known to need a little work on the valve train right out of the box. I wouldn't be surprised if you were into them $1,500-$1,600 by the time you were done.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#18
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #18
Actually, almost all the aluminum heads have a 3/4" deck, so they are actually stronger and more durable.

Kurt
 

NIKwoaC

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#19
  • Aug 24, 2013
  • #19
Gearbanger 101 said:
Where are you finding TFS 170's for $1,000-$1,100 a pair?

Lets also keep in mind that the TFS are known to need a little work on the valve train right out of the box. I wouldn't be surprised if you were into them $1,500-$1,600 by the time you were done.
Click to expand...

What needs done to the valvetrain?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#20
  • Aug 24, 2013
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Just a valve job. TFS heads actually come with good quality valves. Should run you around $200 to get a 5 angle valve job done on them.

Kurt
 
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