Best fox for 5.0 swap?

[BullittStangV8]

Sad to say that my classic mustang which I was building is no longer going to be able to be finished and safe for racing due to newly found and previously hidden body/frame damage done by a previous owner...
Now the good news. I do have a build 331, all the accessories (that are off of a 65 mustang, meaning water pump, fan, ect.), a good toploader, and also a full MSD ignition. The intake side of the motor is a prosystems carb, air gap, AFR heads.
So I now need a cheap roller/driver to put my motor in, and get on the track. Obviously I'm looking at fox bodies, and also to some extent SN95 cars. I want to stay carbed, and stick (I want to reuse my clutch/flywheel). I already have 5 lug rims w. slicks and skinnies, and all the old foxes look to be 4 lug. I assume this can be swapped out.So what donor cars should I be looking at to best complete this swap? I'm semi-worried about how to deal with the computer/electronics in the later cars when running a carbed set up. Give me some direction..I'm pissed and need a car to start wrenching on again soon.

And I'm sorry if this is a topic beaten into the ground guys. I searched and didn't find many threads which answered such a broad question.
Mike

 

[stykthyn]

if you are drag racing a 79-84 notch would be the best as they were the lightest cars. everything should bolt up and a 5 lug swap is a mod that is easily done.

 

[1.8kmint]

A 79 pace car would be a nice find if you could find a decent one for cheap. Otherwise as stated above I'd say notch or a ttop car if you could find one. Those would give you the most resale value...

 

[90_Red_LX]

82 gt! I'd love to build the hell out of one of those. If I ever build a carb car that ones gonna be up at the top of my list.

 

[BullittStangV8]

what about a 95 v-6? I do believe that the 5.0 should bolt in pretty straight forward as well?

also, what are the rust trouble areas in the 83-93's? I know rust is a big issue in classics (especially mustangs in the upper cowl area).

 

[bynummustang]

The 95's are heavier, you'd also have to worry about drive trail and such. The engine bays were different also, but since you're going with a carb, you should be fine.

Door frames, trunk areas, sun/moon roof areas, seat frame, where seat bolts go to floor pan are all good rust spots aside from the ones you can see easily. You will have to take the moon roof off to see if there is any rust.

Run a quick search, but there is a thread that is a check-list for buying a fox somewhere on this board, either 5.0 talk or tech, I can't remember.





Oh, all the nuts and bolts will be rusted so get some PB now.

 

[Blandnuts]

I'd say hatch and door jams for the foxbody.

 

[mavmavv]

Any notch or a Miata

 

[1.8kmint]

RX-7s have been done also... since were being so realistic

 

[ttop88]

Screw the dumb chit. Go straight to the good stuff. 82 Zephyr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everything from a fox bolts on, They weigh less and aint nobody expecting to get there ass handed to them by a zephyr.

 

[BullittStangV8]

woah woah woah guys! No rx7, miatas, or for christ sakes zphyrs! Mustangs only for me.

How hard is doing the auto to manual swap if the donor car is a auto? I assume its more then just adding a clutch pedal.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

You know what my answer is....Notch baby!!!!!

 

[90topdown]

Do yourself a favor and just buy a stick shift to begin with.

Converting from auto is not worth the hassle, IMO

Trust me on this!

 

[ttop88]

woah woah woah guys! No rx7, miatas, or for christ sakes zphyrs! Mustangs only for me.

How hard is doing the auto to manual swap if the donor car is a auto? I assume its more then just adding a clutch pedal.

I still vote Zephyr! As for the 5 speed swap. You pretty much just haft to change the pedal assy. It really aint that bad.

 

[NKau]

The biggest thing to look at in a foxbody is the torqueboxes (spots where the control arms mount to the unibody). Check these for rust/cracking very carefully before buying a car. These are notorious for pulling apart on beaten cars. Makes sure you put tq. box reinforcements in whatever you buy if you will be running sticky tires/pounding on it. Oh, and I'd look for a '79-'93 notch.

 

[BullittStangV8]

I'm finding a ton of 4 cylinder auto notches... really wish they were 4 cylinder 5 spd notches. The reason is that I'm not going to be using a donor car, since my donor car is a classic mustang. So I kind of need that 5 spd pedel assembly/transmission cross memeber/clutch cable set ups from a manual.

Whats the deal with K members and 4 cylinders going to 5.0's?? There's a ton of miss information out there. Many people are saying you just need different mounts, and others say you need the v8 k-member..?

 

[BullittStangV8]

also people have have notches seem to realize this...and they arnt as cheap as i would like.

 

[mavmavv]

I really wouldnt worry about parts too much since Fox's are so damned easy to find. Hell, theres always 4 or 5 at my pick and pull junkyard.

Having a nice base is pretty nice to work with though.

 

[Sicarius428]

Get a notch. They are stronger and lighter than the hatch. If you don't mind doing a swap you can probably find a 4 cylinder notch for pretty cheap.
Kevin

 

[ttop88]

The 4banger and the v8 have the same k member. The 6 cyl. used the oddball member.