Im converting my drag setup to something that can carve corners. What are the best matching shocks and struts to go with my Ford B springs. Im not looking to have a super harsh ride but I do want it to turn.
Best handling struts/shocks to match B springs
- Thread starter Dean85GT
- Start date
fox racer
Member
You have to pick one. Saying you want a corner carving drag setup not only contradicts itself, but really won't happen. What you're looking for I would assume is a good overall performer? In that case, if funds allow it, you can't go wrong with Bilsteins.
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
Do a search on my name and B springs, or Mach1.
If you REALLY want setup that handles, then read what I've posted. If you want something for LOOKS, then that is DIFFERENT! Also, a drag setup is NOT good for handling.
Sorry, in the *real-world*, you have to choose. You can go with handling, and use airbags in the back to help when on the drag strip.
Like I said, you must choose:
o Drag setup
o Handling
o Looks
Read my other posts if you REALLY want a Stang that handles better than stock (but you don't want to go to the full circle track type of setup $$$$$$$).
I said my piece. I've gone over this MANY times. A search is your best friend. If you want a lowered car for LOOKS, that's also your choice. It is, after all, your car.
When the hell did I say I wanted a drag setup. I said I am converting my CURRENT suspension set up which is for drag racing to a setup that can TURN
I heard you buddy.I was reading the posts like WTF! anyway i had a drag setup also and i found a used set of koni yellows for 300 and slapped them in with an unknown spring setup. On soft they feel good, as far as handle good and not feel every crak in the pavement like it was a curb.On hard it locks the seatbelts on fair condition roads,cool but not for everyday driving.I dont know if this helps but its got to be a little better than most so far.
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
So, does that mean that you no longer _care_ about how the car performs on the drag strip?? Most people "want it all". And, sorry, you can not have that in real life.
For handling, do *not* go below a 1" drop. After that, the camber goes positive (BAD!) and the CG (Center of Gravity) gets screwed up and gets higher in a turn (not good).
I don't see why you would ever want the B springs for handling. If you went by the simple choices, the C spring would have been better. Still, both the B and C spring drop Stangs about 1.5", *way too low* for handling.
You have 3 basic choices for handling
o Mach1, Bullitt (600 lbs.in & ~1/2 drop).
o Go to a 750+ spring and 3/4" drop
o Go to a 1000 spring and 3/4 to 1" drop.
The Mach1 Bullitt is what most people choose. Also you must match the strut to the spring for handling and ride. An adjustable strut is the best choice.
Also, you'll need/want CC plates and a bunpsteer kit (get MM for both). I also say that any time you go with CC plates you MUST have an STB because of the increased beating the POS strut towers take.
Also, the biggest and best tires that you can stuff in *your* car make a huge difference. That's why I had to limit how much *my* car dropped - an '86 with the M2300K kit and the wider RE720 tires (wider than most 245/45/17's).
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/misc/Mustang1986_with_Mach1_springs/
It's not that hard to see what's required to REALLY make a Mustang handle. Just look at the 95 Cobra *R*. That was a pure race car (no AC, no radio, sold only to teams, etc). The springs were made *custom* for Ford. Ford could have chosen any rate and drop they wanted. IMHO, they should have went even firmer for a pure race car. Regardless. the 95 Cobra R, 100% stock, kicked *ss and easily held it's own in competition.
Also, look at the 01-Bullitt and 03-Mach1. Car setups designed by real engineers that *know* the platform.
For handling, do *not* go below a 1" drop. After that, the camber goes positive (BAD!) and the CG (Center of Gravity) gets screwed up and gets higher in a turn (not good).
I don't see why you would ever want the B springs for handling. If you went by the simple choices, the C spring would have been better. Still, both the B and C spring drop Stangs about 1.5", *way too low* for handling.
You have 3 basic choices for handling
o Mach1, Bullitt (600 lbs.in & ~1/2 drop).
o Go to a 750+ spring and 3/4" drop
o Go to a 1000 spring and 3/4 to 1" drop.
The Mach1 Bullitt is what most people choose. Also you must match the strut to the spring for handling and ride. An adjustable strut is the best choice.
Also, you'll need/want CC plates and a bunpsteer kit (get MM for both). I also say that any time you go with CC plates you MUST have an STB because of the increased beating the POS strut towers take.
Also, the biggest and best tires that you can stuff in *your* car make a huge difference. That's why I had to limit how much *my* car dropped - an '86 with the M2300K kit and the wider RE720 tires (wider than most 245/45/17's).
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/misc/Mustang1986_with_Mach1_springs/
It's not that hard to see what's required to REALLY make a Mustang handle. Just look at the 95 Cobra *R*. That was a pure race car (no AC, no radio, sold only to teams, etc). The springs were made *custom* for Ford. Ford could have chosen any rate and drop they wanted. IMHO, they should have went even firmer for a pure race car. Regardless. the 95 Cobra R, 100% stock, kicked *ss and easily held it's own in competition.
Also, look at the 01-Bullitt and 03-Mach1. Car setups designed by real engineers that *know* the platform.
88-378
Member
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
I went with adj Toks.
Ok for starters...the B springs did not lower the nose of my car more than an inch which actually disappointed me. I bought them because they were the softest decent lowering spring I could use for drag racing without opting for full out drag springs. I assumed they wouldnt be too bad on a corner carver but apparantly they are. The car WILL be dropped more than an inch after it goes back together. How are the H&R springs? Are there sport ones decent and how rough are the race springs?
COILDUP
New Member
I have the H&R race springs with Bilstein's on mine and love them. They are noticeably stiffer than stock, but not too harsh IMHO. They didn't drop it in the weeds, but I love the drop on mine and I can use the adj LCAs to dial in the rear.
http://cid-6eb951d440c1686f.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/MM_After_F.JPG
http://cid-6eb951d440c1686f.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/MM_After_R.JPG
http://cid-6eb951d440c1686f.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/MM_After_F.JPG
http://cid-6eb951d440c1686f.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/MM_After_R.JPG
87foxstang
Member
as far as lowering it more than one inch and it having a bad effect, i dont agree with that. I have Koni yellows in front and koni reds in the rear with 1 1/2" lowering springs and SFC's and my car handles better than any other car ive ridden in. It stays flat in all the corners, and doesnt budge
fox racer
Member
Whoops, sorry Dean, I misread the post. In that case, you might get away with B Springs ad a decent shock/strut. But if you want to spend the money, Bilsteins and H&R Race springs will give you great handling, but not kill your ride too much. That's the setup I'm going for.
As for 87foxstang, your car may handle decent for the street, or is OK in your specific car, but it's a known fact that lowering the car too much will affect handling negatively. Look up corner-carver.com and see what I mean.
As for 87foxstang, your car may handle decent for the street, or is OK in your specific car, but it's a known fact that lowering the car too much will affect handling negatively. Look up corner-carver.com and see what I mean.
