Best least expensive setup for decent power... lets figure it out.

[BurningRubber]

Ok, so ive been reading the last zillion threads about staying N/A and making power, staying stock-ish and adding a blower in the mix, or just spraying the hell out of the engine with a properly setup nitrous kit.

So... basically heres what I want to know. To the people that get these mods, do you want to get into a certain time zone at the drag strip, or just have a crapload of power at your disposal?

Next up... What is the best combo for a decent amount of power? I mean enough to throw you in the seat hard, and be comfortably in low 13 or possibly HIGH 12 sec. territory at the strip?

What do you guys think the best setup is?

I guess one of my first questions is, how fast can a BOLT ON 4.6 be? No forced induction, nitrous or whatnot... just bolt ons and traction... whats possible?

Next... Ive come to realise there is no cheap way to get a 4.6 to make good power, cept for a big shot of nitrous which isnt too appealing to me.

How would a setup of some agressive cams (but stock heads) with all the standard bolt ons and exhaust (longtubes included) and a good tune stack up to a stock engine with a run of the mill average S/C kit, not pushing too much boost due to reliablilty worries?

I like the idea of going fast N/A, because its just more than bolting something on, getting it to run right and your done... but then I just as much like the idea of being able to slap on a blower and the supporting parts, and hauling ass without the hassle of tearing into the engine itself.

But which route do you guys feel is most COST efficient, but without sacraficing much power. I rather be making decent numbers and being on the low end of the budget, than making a little more power but spending 2x the money.

Sorry for the big post... but I felt like asking the question..:SNSign:

 

[propellerhead]

Nitrous.

 

[four six]

Nitrous.

+1 for NO2

 

[myponyrocks]

you could run 12s with all bolt ons (not even cams)

 

[edbo]

Longtubes, Xpipe and good catback for starters. Underdrive pulleys, gears 4.10s if you don't plan to add juice or supercharger. CAI, Throttle Body/Plenum and a good tune should put you in low 13's with some drag radials on the rear.

 

[DropTopPony]

The Juice is loose....

 

[RaceDvr50]

Probably need to go with the nitrous if you are only looking for dragstrip bang for the buck. Otherwise for daily fun and always on horsepower build the top end of a 5.0 up a little. A cheap set of GT40P's and intake off a donor Explorer engine as well as the throttle body. I picked up a whole engine for $450 and sold what I didn't need. Then some headers drag radials and add parts as necessary, 24lb injectors, etc. The chassis mods will be common to whatever engine set-up you choose since you're dealing with the same car.

 

[tico915007]

I went with the mongoose kit reason is a blown car is alot of fun on the street but honestly you can run low 13's with decent suspension slicks good clutch and minor bolt ons like jlt rai good exhaust and good tune. I have 360 rwhp ever since my last tune and i my buddy has a 2002 gt with tubular front suspension coilovers, LCA's drag bags mickey tees engine is bone stock he just has a midpipe and catback and with out his nitrous (50 shot) its really close on the nitrous hes gone mostly because of his launch. You will always have to sacrafice something, he sacraficed his ride and saved a-lot of money also he has the temptation of the nitrous, my power is always there my car rides nearly stock but i get 13 mpg city and 22 highway you gotta pay to play, also once you run 13's you want 12's then 11's its addicting i regret modding my car without having a daily driver.

 

[DropTopPony]

Probably need to go with the nitrous if you are only looking for dragstrip bang for the buck. Otherwise for daily fun and always on horsepower build the top end of a 5.0 up a little. A cheap set of GT40P's and intake off a donor Explorer engine as well as the throttle body. I picked up a whole engine for $450 and sold what I didn't need. Then some headers drag radials and add parts as necessary, 24lb injectors, etc. The chassis mods will be common to whatever engine set-up you choose since you're dealing with the same car.

too bad he doesn't have a 5.0 to build a top end on!!! your posting in the modular section.

 

[RaceDvr50]

Whoops, I was just looking at new posts, my bad.

 

[BurningRubber]

Well I guess my path would be an all out bolt on assault, haha.

How would longtubes, an o/r mid pipe, catback, intake (allready got it), plenum/75mm TB, u/d pullies, and a tune stack up? Is that low 13 second territory yet, assuming traction is there?

If that isnt enough... ive been eying the Typhoon intake manifolds, they seem pretty nice. I read they put a gain of around 25hp out on a stock 4.6 in 5.0 and Super Fords mag.

 

[03ghoststang]

Well I guess my path would be an all out bolt on assault, haha.

How would longtubes, an o/r mid pipe, catback, intake (allready got it), plenum/75mm TB, u/d pullies, and a tune stack up? Is that low 13 second territory yet, assuming traction is there?

If that isnt enough... ive been eying the Typhoon intake manifolds, they seem pretty nice. I read they put a gain of around 25hp out on a stock 4.6 in 5.0 and Super Fords mag.

i read your sig and dont see any gears on it should consider them if you havent installed them already

 

[BurningRubber]

i read your sig and dont see any gears on it should consider them if you havent installed them already

Yeah I know gears are a great bang for the buck... I do 95% highway driving though, so im torn between gears and no gears. I have some freinds that are getting theirs installed soon. Price of gears plus 200 for install, not sure if that includes the speedo calibration or not... but im tempted to get some 3.73's.

 

[03ghoststang]

Yeah I know gears are a great bang for the buck... I do 95% highway driving though, so im torn between gears and no gears. I have some freinds that are getting theirs installed soon. Price of gears plus 200 for install, not sure if that includes the speedo calibration or not... but im tempted to get some 3.73's.

yeah thats true but since you do alot of highway driving then just go with the 3.73's i believe that is one of the few exceptions allowed here

that or F/I

 

[BurningRubber]

Nevermind, just did some reading up on the Typhoon intake... not as impressive as they make it sound.

I think my first move is gonna be a Professional Products plenum and Professional Products 75mm TB... I can get the mirror finished set for 225 bucks from RPM outlet (the price of a BBK or Accufab TB alone). I know everyone is gonna say "it wont do jack", but what single bolt on will...? Gotta start somewhere.

 

[HoustonGT]

Well I guess my path would be an all out bolt on assault, haha.

How would longtubes, an o/r mid pipe, catback, intake (allready got it), plenum/75mm TB, u/d pullies, and a tune stack up? Is that low 13 second territory yet, assuming traction is there?

If that isnt enough... ive been eying the Typhoon intake manifolds, they seem pretty nice. I read they put a gain of around 25hp out on a stock 4.6 in 5.0 and Super Fords mag.

If you plan on spending that much for a simple intake manifold, go ahead and get cams and gain about 25rwhp

 

[BurningRubber]

If you plan on spending that much for a simple intake manifold, go ahead and get cams and gain about 25rwhp

Nah I put that out of my mind, the gains really arent that great with just the intake manifold. I rather do cams for the price, like you said.

 

[Mike97gt]

you can run high 12's on slicks with a properly setup suspension with minimal engine bolt on's I have heard of a few 12.9X runs at 99 mph <--- now you need to be good to pull that off, and also have GREAT AIR.. you need a negitive DA to pull that off.

 

[loosescrew79]

+1 for NO2

+2 for NO2
power made simple

 

[BurningRubber]

Nitrous isnt the route im going. I know if its properly set up that its not that unsafe, but... its not for me. I rather have a gain all across the board than just under WOT when I hit a switch.