Best Mods for staying N/A

[Silvergto2]

As the title says, what are the best mods if I wanted to stay N/A plus what realistic hp number could I expect to get. I am wanting to get my stang to 400 rwhp. Is this achieveable staying n/a and not spending a fortune? I've been back and forth on a supercharger, but I want to do what's best for the long term of my car. I think rebuilding the engine might be a good start.

 

[sgarlic]

VT Stage 2 cams, Steeda pullies, Fox Lake heads, new upper intake, P&P'd Accufab plenum/TB, bigger MAF, bigger injectors, reputable CAI, electric water pump, since you'll be needing a tune, have it cal'd for the gears/cams/heads, and advance the timing, etc.

I hesitate to guess on what you'd be at.. there are guys with the major boltons, stage 1 cams, minus the heads pushing 300rwhp easy.

However, to answer your question, N/A mods don't compare hp per dollar to a supercharger or turbo. You're looking at 1200 for a good intake, 600ish for the cams, 1400 for the heads, several hundred for the pump, injectors, maf, etc.. 400ish for the tb/plenum, 180 for the pullies, few hundred for the tune,etc. For $4800 you can slap a 9# intercooled KB on and smoke every bolt on gt on the road.

 

[Silvergto2]

I would supercharge but dont I need to do some of that stuff to my engine still? I have read so many post and I am totally confused what is need to supercharge safely. I would only go Kenne Bell as far as superchargers are concerned. The other problem I have is finding, if any, reputable company in Utah that could install most of this stuff for me. Out of the mods listed above, what would I want to do in order to get my car ready for a supercharger?

 

[Skidzz]

If you want 400 rwhp, get a blower. It's just not cost-efficient to try to make those numbers N/A. If you want to get in the 300 rwhp range N/A, that is more reasonable. If you want to do a blower RIGHT, you really need to forge the internals IMO. So the way I see it, 300 rwhp is cheaper to get to N/A than FI if you're talking about forged internals and all, but 400 rwhp is going to come WAY cheaper with FI. But, if you wanna go really cheap...just do nitrous

 

[bdcardinal]

im planning on staying N/A on my car. i will be building a motor and swapping it in. heres my list of what i will be building

Teksid block
MMR 5.0 stroker assembly (flat top pistons)
ARP main and head studs
VT st2 N/A cams
MMR st2 heads
PI or typhoon intake
Canton aluminum road race pan and windage tray
Firdenza adjustable cam gears
Canton remote filter and oil cooler
Firdenza flywheel

thats as far as ive gotten for a motor. this is a few months away though as i will also be putting in a t56, MM K-member and Fluidyne radiator.

 

[COramprat]

An LS1 swap...

 

[Cobra Jay]

An LS1 swap...

True


Getting 400WHP with a 4.6l 2v is going to be very tough and expensive. It's do able, but it's going to cost you some big $ !

 

[the98stang]

It would kick a$$ to have a N/A 400WHP 4.6, but it would be way cheaper to use some sort of power adder. That's why I plan on spraying the juice

 

[myponyrocks]

everything that bolts on... as said above its uber expensive after you get around the 270 mark.

 

[stangGT97]

im planning on staying N/A on my car. i will be building a motor and swapping it in. heres my list of what i will be building

have you considered doing a big bore setup? that's where the real power will be, and the Teksid block is the best platform to start from for a 302 or 304" BB.

Don't forget that 300hp N/A will be faster than 300hp supercharged/turboed, simply because of weight factors. Hotmustang331 has all boltons + stage 1 cams pushing about 295rwhp and is running 12.79, some guys with the Mongoose kit are running similar times with 50 more hp. Just some food for thought...

To get the most N/A power - 324BB/stroker block w/ flat tops and forged crank, MPH stage 2.5 heads, VT stage 2 cams, longtubes, every bolt-on imaginable, excellent tune, and a very fat wallet. Of course you don't need to buy the particular brands I've listed - there are many companies that port heads and a few options for agressive cams. The point is, there is a lot involved (money and effort) with making serious N/A hp, but the end result is a car that can get down the 1/4 very fast, with less hp than a 400hp KB setup

 

[donsbad68]

most likely wont make 400hp N/A

 

[Rickyll7]

The setup in my sig is making 292 rwhp and 340 rwtq on a mustang dyno. I have heard of some guys with similar setups making closer to 315-325 but that may have been on a dyno jet, I'm not sure.

 

[Built98GT]

N/A is not the way to go! I tried it but ended up not happy with 297 rwhp. Go with a supercharger you will not be dissapointed.

 

[myponyrocks]

The setup in my sig is making 292 rwhp and 340 rwtq on a mustang dyno. I have heard of some guys with similar setups making closer to 315-325 but that may have been on a dyno jet, I'm not sure.

the difference in a dynojet and mustang dyno is typically about 30 HP for sub 350hp cars. So that would be about right.

 

[BooWFO]

4.6 2v and cost effective 400rwhp?

Sure no problem NA just look at my sig for the shoping list..

NA does mean Nitrous Assisted right


mm&ff did a build up on a 4.6 2v and got what like 500 crank hp. So it can be done just the cost to do it is well IMO too much. There is a reason why so many people go with a poweradder on these cars.

 

[Torinalth]

only way to get 400 NA, as far as i have read, is to go to a cobra engine. going to the 4v setup with higher comp pistons a full bolton, headed and cammed engine can get 420+ on pump gas. its pricy though..

Torinalth

 

[scupking]

400 N/A is going to run you alot of money on a 2v 4.6. I'm sticking N/A also but am going for 300 rwhp, If I wan't more I would swap for a 5.4 4v.

 

[bdcardinal]

ya my main issue is that i have to stay somewhat smog legal. basically i want to have it so i can make it visually cool within a few hours if needbe.

basically i can do almost whatever i want to do internally. i have an Accufab 70mm T/B and plenum, that isnt legal but can be swapped in a few minutes. ill use JBA shorty headers, and will swap the O/R X pipe for the stock one, and hope that will catch all the HCs.

ive definately considered the big bore mod. but if i do that ill get the Darton sleeves. plus i still want get a 03/04 cobra at somepoint.

im trying to stick with MMR cause i know everyone that works there really well, and they are close to me.

 

[02LaserRed2V]

Don't forget that 300hp N/A will be faster than 300hp supercharged/turboed, simply because of weight factors. Hotmustang331 has all boltons + stage 1 cams pushing about 295rwhp and is running 12.79, some guys with the Mongoose kit are running similar times with 50 more hp. Just some food for thought...

A blower doesnt add enough weight to make such a difference. When it comes to drag racing, it's all about the overall setup (gears, tires, suspension, etc.). Many blown stangs are set up for the street/highway. And not all 270-300rwhp N/A stangs run the 1/4 well. I've seen cases where full bolt on N/A stangs are still unable to run 13s. plus you have to factor in driver mod. It's more difficult putting hp to the ground when you're making lots of power.

 

[stangGT97]

A blower doesnt add enough weight to make such a difference. When it comes to drag racing, it's all about the overall setup (gears, tires, suspension, etc.). Many blown stangs are set up for the street/highway. And not all 270-300rwhp N/A stangs run the 1/4 well. I've seen cases where full bolt on N/A stangs are still unable to run 13s. plus you have to factor in driver mod. It's more difficult putting hp to the ground when you're making lots of power.

thats true I guess... a better way of putting it is a good driver can push a 300rwhp car to run better 1/4 times than a bad driver in a 400rwhp car.