Best Mods for staying N/A

COramprat said:

An LS1 swap...

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True


Getting 400WHP with a 4.6l 2v is going to be very tough and expensive. It's do able, but it's going to cost you some big $ !

It would kick a$$ to have a N/A 400WHP 4.6, but it would be way cheaper to use some sort of power adder. That's why I plan on spraying the juice

everything that bolts on... as said above its uber expensive after you get around the 270 mark.

bdcardinal said:

im planning on staying N/A on my car. i will be building a motor and swapping it in. heres my list of what i will be building

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have you considered doing a big bore setup? that's where the real power will be, and the Teksid block is the best platform to start from for a 302 or 304" BB.

Don't forget that 300hp N/A will be faster than 300hp supercharged/turboed, simply because of weight factors. Hotmustang331 has all boltons + stage 1 cams pushing about 295rwhp and is running 12.79, some guys with the Mongoose kit are running similar times with 50 more hp. Just some food for thought...

To get the most N/A power - 324BB/stroker block w/ flat tops and forged crank, MPH stage 2.5 heads, VT stage 2 cams, longtubes, every bolt-on imaginable, excellent tune, and a very fat wallet. Of course you don't need to buy the particular brands I've listed - there are many companies that port heads and a few options for agressive cams. The point is, there is a lot involved (money and effort) with making serious N/A hp, but the end result is a car that can get down the 1/4 very fast, with less hp than a 400hp KB setup

most likely wont make 400hp N/A

The setup in my sig is making 292 rwhp and 340 rwtq on a mustang dyno. I have heard of some guys with similar setups making closer to 315-325 but that may have been on a dyno jet, I'm not sure.

N/A is not the way to go! I tried it but ended up not happy with 297 rwhp. Go with a supercharger you will not be dissapointed.

Rickyll7 said:

The setup in my sig is making 292 rwhp and 340 rwtq on a mustang dyno. I have heard of some guys with similar setups making closer to 315-325 but that may have been on a dyno jet, I'm not sure.

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the difference in a dynojet and mustang dyno is typically about 30 HP for sub 350hp cars. So that would be about right.

4.6 2v and cost effective 400rwhp?

Sure no problem NA just look at my sig for the shoping list..

NA does mean Nitrous Assisted right


mm&ff did a build up on a 4.6 2v and got what like 500 crank hp. So it can be done just the cost to do it is well IMO too much. There is a reason why so many people go with a poweradder on these cars.

only way to get 400 NA, as far as i have read, is to go to a cobra engine. going to the 4v setup with higher comp pistons a full bolton, headed and cammed engine can get 420+ on pump gas. its pricy though..

Torinalth

400 N/A is going to run you alot of money on a 2v 4.6. I'm sticking N/A also but am going for 300 rwhp, If I wan't more I would swap for a 5.4 4v.

ya my main issue is that i have to stay somewhat smog legal. basically i want to have it so i can make it visually cool within a few hours if needbe.

basically i can do almost whatever i want to do internally. i have an Accufab 70mm T/B and plenum, that isnt legal but can be swapped in a few minutes. ill use JBA shorty headers, and will swap the O/R X pipe for the stock one, and hope that will catch all the HCs.

ive definately considered the big bore mod. but if i do that ill get the Darton sleeves. plus i still want get a 03/04 cobra at somepoint.

im trying to stick with MMR cause i know everyone that works there really well, and they are close to me.

stangGT97 said:

Don't forget that 300hp N/A will be faster than 300hp supercharged/turboed, simply because of weight factors. Hotmustang331 has all boltons + stage 1 cams pushing about 295rwhp and is running 12.79, some guys with the Mongoose kit are running similar times with 50 more hp. Just some food for thought...

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A blower doesnt add enough weight to make such a difference. When it comes to drag racing, it's all about the overall setup (gears, tires, suspension, etc.). Many blown stangs are set up for the street/highway. And not all 270-300rwhp N/A stangs run the 1/4 well. I've seen cases where full bolt on N/A stangs are still unable to run 13s. plus you have to factor in driver mod. It's more difficult putting hp to the ground when you're making lots of power.

02LaserRed2V said:

A blower doesnt add enough weight to make such a difference. When it comes to drag racing, it's all about the overall setup (gears, tires, suspension, etc.). Many blown stangs are set up for the street/highway. And not all 270-300rwhp N/A stangs run the 1/4 well. I've seen cases where full bolt on N/A stangs are still unable to run 13s. plus you have to factor in driver mod. It's more difficult putting hp to the ground when you're making lots of power.

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thats true I guess... a better way of putting it is a good driver can push a 300rwhp car to run better 1/4 times than a bad driver in a 400rwhp car.