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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Best Mods for staying N/A

  • Thread starter Thread starter Silvergto2
  • Start date Start date Jul 12, 2006
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BooWFO

New Member
May 10, 2005
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Louisville, KY
Jul 14, 2006
#21
  • Jul 14, 2006
  • #21
stangGT97 said:
thats true I guess... a better way of putting it is a good driver can push a 300rwhp car to run better 1/4 times than a bad driver in a 400rwhp car.
Click to expand...
Also comparing track X times to track Y times is a bit hard. Then there is the whole different driver thing too.
Now having said that yes I've beat my share of Sc'ed 2v's that at the time made more rwhp.


I'll be the first to say that I've been watching Hot's built and watching his et's. Seems to me he does well at matching his parts and driving his car.
 

hognutz

New Member
Nov 12, 2002
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albany, oregon
Jul 14, 2006
#22
  • Jul 14, 2006
  • #22
If you are talking wheel horspower you will never make it with a 2v. highest I have seen was 360rwhp and that was not a daily.

now if you are talking flywheel horsepower you can do it or get real close but it will cost you.

1. heads
2. cams
3. longtubes
4. intake
5. tune

for example 320rwhp is achivable without going nuts and if you factory in drivetrain loss that is 370hp or so.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
Jul 14, 2006
#23
  • Jul 14, 2006
  • #23
stang97gt - E.T.'s don't show power...look at the mph.

Some cars with "drag setups"...run 12.5 @ 104mph...while some cars run 12.5 at 115 mph. The latter is a considerable amount faster.

Supercharger is about 50lbs. Nothing to it...
 
W

white-04

New Member
Apr 1, 2005
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Owings, MD
Jul 14, 2006
#24
  • Jul 14, 2006
  • #24
I've always wanted to stay NA as well, however, once you start swapping heads and cams, you most likely will not pass an emissions test. At least I haven't heard of anyone with those mods passing emissions. You can pass with a supercharger though.
 
0

01Steeda

New Member
May 29, 2005
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Baton Rouge, LA
Jul 14, 2006
#25
  • Jul 14, 2006
  • #25
I think everyone is pretty much saying the same thing so I will try to condense it lol.

I also tried the N/A route before a great deal on a blower came up so I have a bit of experience.

400RWHP streetable is unpossible in a 2V lol.. best bet if you insist on N/A is a 4.6 4V or a 5.4 of any Valve....easiest and most cost effective way to get there with a 2V(which is the most cost effective way in any means because a swap would cost some dough) is to slap a blower on it. you can get a mongoose kit from MPH and putting a power pipe and pully down. cheapest route to 400.. with room to grow

good luck with whatever you choose
 

BennyBlown2v

New Member
Dec 9, 2004
1,233
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Carmel, INdiana
Jul 15, 2006
#26
  • Jul 15, 2006
  • #26
02LaserRed2V said:
A blower doesnt add enough weight to make such a difference. When it comes to drag racing, it's all about the overall setup (gears, tires, suspension, etc.). Many blown stangs are set up for the street/highway. And not all 270-300rwhp N/A stangs run the 1/4 well. I've seen cases where full bolt on N/A stangs are still unable to run 13s. plus you have to factor in driver mod. It's more difficult putting hp to the ground when you're making lots of power.
Click to expand...

Like my car! (w/ Street/Auto-X suspension, full interior trim, stereo, etc.) If I could hook and launch perfectly I would be in the mid to low 11's - but with my suspension setup that is nearly impossible.

Anyway, if you want alot of power, buy a blower - and if you want alot of power for about 1/3 as much go with a high quality nitrous kit and a good dyno tune + headers & throttle body/plenum. IMO the 2v motor simply cannot put out enough power inless you CRAM the power in there one way or another...lol
 
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