best suspension setup for a street car?

BlackVert · Jan 12, 2007

part of my project is to make my car a car that is a pleasure to drive. it is not there right now at all.

before the teardown, i had: stock k-member and control arms, mmr coil overs, strange 10-way struts, and mm c/c plates. that combo make for an unacceptable ride ... at speeds under 25, it would rattle over every bump and imperfection in the road. after a while, i started to dread getting in my car because of the way it rode. that is unacceptable and i need to fix it

i really don't want to put the coil-overs/struts/camber plates back in because i am sure they will rattle again (still)

now i have an aje k-member going in, mainly because of the drop and setback capabilities to get the 410 to fit under the hood, and for clearance for the headers. but it is a street k-memebr so it has extra bracing to make it as stiff as possible.

so i need to change my setup so that it is a pleasure to drive again. any suggestions?

Pokageek · Jan 12, 2007

sup BV! I like the direction you are going BTW. I am in the same category. I would rather enjoy the ride than say I can handle .03g better or have 14 more HP but it runs and drives like #$%.

I have heard from a lot of folks that the coil overs are the killer and destroy the ride. I dont know this for fact but have heard a lot of fist handers say this. If anyone can confirm, please do.

Considering we have similar goals, here is my suggestions. I wouldn't lower the car more than 1.5" for starters. I went with eibach progressive springs and it rides great and a little lowered. I bought the blue tokico's all the way around for better performance but not a harse ride. I will report back on those.

Per your comments, I am getting another strut tower brace.

I hate the handling so between the new shocks and eventually a panhard bar and torque arm - it won't ride like a boat through the corners. I don't think the ride will be any harsher either and bump up the "fun to drive factor."

FOR YOU ESPECIALLY - at least get the torque box reinforcement kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...E:B:EOIBSAA:US:31&viewitem=&item=270072918935

I also bought these for quieter operation that other LCA's and better placement of my HP and TQ. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130062308409

O' and if you can't stand the sssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhh - air sound of your air intake tube, go to home depot and get some of that sticky backed thin aluminum tape. The backing insulates the sound and the aluminum is there to take any heat. I wrapped that with black gorilla tape and it looks pretty professional actually.

BlackVert · Jan 12, 2007

thanks poke. i am planning to follow your path to killing the drone and am looking into a mac pro-chamber mated with the 3" version of the 3-chamber mufflers you are running. are those the 50-series Delta Flows?

i forgot to mention that i have bbk rear control arms and i think i'm happy with them

i am seriously considering losing the coil-overs and going back to springs. i also don't want to slam it, a 1.5" drop would be plenty for my purposes

i have heard x2 ball joints drop it some and also improve geometry (good thing), but how does they affect the ride (if at all)?

and i understand that a bumpsteer kit improves steering response on bumpy curves (good thing), but how does it affect the ride (if at all)?

let's hear people's experiences with these things please.

how about aftermarket a-arms with 1" drop springs, x2 ball joints, and a bumpsteer kit?

i'm not familiar with torque boxes or their affect on handling, but if it can help make the ride better, then i'm all in.

BlackVert · Jan 12, 2007

or maybe even stock regular springs (i.e. not vert springs) with the x2 and the bumpsteer.

i figure the fact that it is a vert with a 410 instead of a 302 will still cause the car to sit a little lower. adding the x2 to that mix would give me some more drop, but not a major drop?

how does that logic sound?

95opal · Jan 12, 2007

Im with pokageek, dont drop it more than the 1.5" it gets way to harsh. With whats in my sig im very happy w/ the ride Quality. The Bumbsteer kit helped out big time w/ no ill effects on ride quality. Even w/out CC plates there was no alinment probs. The only other thing I need is to get a STB to fit around my TFS.

Pokageek · Jan 12, 2007

Sure BV, it was 50 series delta flow = FLO-942553 from summit (2.5"). They sound way better than the quiet hookers and super turbo's too. That link to the tq box plates is so that your car doesn't rip in half with all that tq on a hard launch. For me, especially with LCA's, I am just being careful, maybe over careful but I may be upgrading to a 408 sometime in the future so rather safe...

BlackVert · Jan 12, 2007

Pokageek said:
Sure BV, it was 50 series delta flow = FLO-942553 from summit (2.5"). They sound way better than the quiet hookers and super turbo's too. That link to the tq box plates is so that your car doesn't rip in half with all that tq on a hard launch. For me, especially with LCA's, I am just being careful, maybe over careful but I may be upgrading to a 408 sometime in the future so rather safe...

:SNSign:

Pokageek · Jan 12, 2007

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/howto/35618/

Pokageek · Jan 12, 2007

95opal said:
Im with pokageek, dont drop it more than the 1.5" it gets way to harsh. With whats in my sig im very happy w/ the ride Quality. The Bumbsteer kit helped out big time w/ no ill effects on ride quality. Even w/out CC plates there was no alinment probs. The only other thing I need is to get a STB to fit around my TFS.

95opal, did you feel a noticeable difference with the steeda rear swaybar? BTW, bigger rear swaybar (in addition to less lean in the turns) will make the car Oversteer more. This for most people means MORE fun factor. Bigger front swaybar (in relation to the rear) means more understeer, in addition to less lean in turns..just FYI.

95opal · Jan 13, 2007

Pok, I did the whole suspension in one shot so its hard for me to tell what effect that it had by itself.(Rear sway) The bumbsteer kit was added last cause I could visually see the front tie rods and A-arms were wacked out.

Methodical · Jan 13, 2007

BlackVert said:
...
i really don't want to put the coil-overs/struts/camber plates back in because i am sure they will rattle again...l

Not if you put in the Maximum Motorsports coilovers

Methodical · Jan 15, 2007

BV if you want to get some really good suspension tips, I'd suggest you go over to the Corner Carver forum and do some lurking. That forum is all about suspension and they should be able to provide some insight.

I for one love the tight sporty ride so I have the MM sport valved coilover kit (Bilstein) - 400lb front and 250lb rear. My car is not a DD though. I love the ride it's very tight and handles extremely well. Whatever you do just don't skimp in this category.

Good luck
Peace

BlackVert · Jan 15, 2007

95opal said:
Pok, I did the whole suspension in one shot so its hard for me to tell what effect that it had by itself.(Rear sway) The bumbsteer kit was added last cause I could visually see the front tie rods and A-arms were wacked out.

please list everything you have. i see:

pro-kit, tokicos, Steeda rear sway & lca's, FRPP uppers, subs, Steeda bumpsteer kit

in your sig. what springs do you have? and you you have stock a-arms?

Pokageek · Jan 15, 2007

"what springs do you have?"

Eibach Pro's.

4Jenna · Jan 15, 2007

Methodical said:
Not if you put in the Maximum Motorsports coilovers

Can anyone else confirm this?
My D&Ds are loud and it annoys me

BlackVert · Jan 15, 2007

Pokageek said:
"what springs do you have?"

Eibach Pro's.

so that is what the pro-kit is ... lol

Pokageek · Jan 15, 2007

Yep. Sorry for the brief reply lol. Yes, eibach pro(gressive rate) springs are a softer ride then the others they make. I picked that up in his sig because tha tis what I have.

95opal · Jan 15, 2007

BlackVert said:
so that is what the pro-kit is ... lol

Yup the pro-kit. I live in ct and the roads are crap so no sportlines for me. I still have stock A-arms with new bushings. This car is strickly driven on the street, so i didnt want the suspension to be too stiff and non forgiving, thats the reasoning behind my parts selection and im pleased with the ride. Its not harsh and handles pretty dam good.

best suspension setup for a street car?

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