Best water pump ?

[BarnStang]

Well, it's been a few years so I guess I shouldn't complain...I have my new Ron Davis radiator waiting to go in so now I have a reason. I searched and found the two threads below-looking for the best replacement water pump.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=342190
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=396303

One view was that anything more than stock used more power to turn it. ANother recommended the Brassworks unit. Never heard of that one.

Some snooping on Summit turned up a few things. THere are some pumps that have steel impellers to resist corrosion. Others have little documentation for the price they are asking. Some say they have better bearings for longer life...

Is it worth the price and power loss for 30% extra flow on a daily driver (in Central Florida), or should I just get the $27 stocker from Advance and be done with it...?

Whats the best one to get? The cost is not too much of a concern as long as I do it right the first time.

 

[Rick 91GT]

www.stewartcomponents.com

 

[liv2ride]

Which one?

BarnStang,

What did you end up buying? I am looking at replacing my pump during the holidays and don't have an idea of which pump is good and which is not - there are too many and the choice is difficult.

Also, I have been reading a lot about stripping or breaking the water pump bolts. Is there a technique that can be done before removal to lessen the chance of damaging them? I was thinking about spraying them with penetrating oil the day before and then giving the bolts a few taps with the hammer to hopefully help break them free.

Thanks in advance.

Aloha

Scot

Well, it's been a few years so I guess I shouldn't complain...I have my new Ron Davis radiator waiting to go in so now I have a reason. I searched and found the two threads below-looking for the best replacement water pump.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=342190
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=396303

One view was that anything more than stock used more power to turn it. ANother recommended the Brassworks unit. Never heard of that one.

Some snooping on Summit turned up a few things. THere are some pumps that have steel impellers to resist corrosion. Others have little documentation for the price they are asking. Some say they have better bearings for longer life...

Is it worth the price and power loss for 30% extra flow on a daily driver (in Central Florida), or should I just get the $27 stocker from Advance and be done with it...?

Whats the best one to get? The cost is not too much of a concern as long as I do it right the first time.

 

[The Shape]

I used the 27 dollar replacement pump form advance and it has worked fine. Been on there about two years, but my car is stock. A heavily modded stang may require a better pump. I wouldn't know I can't afford to modify mine. LOL

 

[HISSIN50]

i think there are some pumps for a bit more money that a parts store version which might hold up better.

i have used parts store pumps..... but would not hesistate to try something a little better. 30% more flow sounds good to me.

and if Rick recommends something, i would use it, no questions asked!

good luck.

 

[SlowGT]

CSI Electric Water Pumps

 

[Michael Yount]

The stock pump will likely be just fine; most go for at least a decade with no problems and provide plenty of flow to keep the car cool even on modded engines.

Stock/aftermarket mechanical water pumps flow max on the order of 80-120 gpm, but the flow varies with rpm of course. At lower rpm, the flows are proportionally lower. Very few electrics approach those numbers - the CSR mentioned above claims "from 35-70 gpm". However, they will flow max even at idle if that's what you desire, and they take less power to run than the stock pump at higher rpms.

So you need to take a close look at how the car/engine is gonna be used when selecting the pump. For street use the electric can move more water at lower rpm than a mechanical. And for drag racing applications (for example) it can be used to cool down the motor between runs, and even switched off for those few seconds of the run. For extended high rpm running (road racing) it's hard to beat a mechanical pump for sheer volume.

In any event, if you decide to go electric, here's the way to control it --- www.dccontrol.com; variable speed controller that ties pump and fans together with variable speed to keep the car at a fixed operating temp.

 

[Ranchero5.0]

Did the auto zone a few years ago and get a new one (free lifetime replacement) every winter when I tear the car down. Usually a blown head gasket will cause any pumps seal to fail anyway so why get a $75 pump.

Scott, if it's been forever since the pump was replaced I'll try the bolts with a socket and if they don't give easily I throw a propane torch onto the block for a minute or two where the threads go in (worked many times). Once the bolt moves a little work it back and forth until it frees up. It's a magic touch to doing it right without breaking the bolt off. Just have the accesorys out of the way and move the wiring away too.

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

I really like the edelbrock pump I run on the 418. Just me though.
mike.

 

[Michael Yount]

On the bolts - the problem more often than not is galvanic corrosion. The steel bolts, cast iron block and aluminum pump/cover (dis-similar metals) combine with salts in the coolant to actually form a weak battery. Metal actually leaves the bolts and gets deposited elsewhere. So the bolts corrode in place which is what causes the problem. Tight or simple rusted bolts respond well to heat, penentrant. When the fastener suffers from galvanic corrosion, there's not much you can do except get it out the best you can, and hope the threads in the block are undamaged. Clean 'em up with a tap, and put new fasteners in there.

 

[BarnStang]

I went with this:

http://www.flowkooler.com/pump.php?pid=WP1660

I'm pretty sure I ordered it from Summit...

 

[HISSIN50]

hey guys, while we are beating this around:
what is the point of a high-flow (more GPM) pump? wouldnt the rest of the system, with small passages and a stat to go through, be a bottleneck (is there a gain to be had over a stock flowing pump)?
if there are not bottlenecks, couldnt coolant flow too fast through the coil?

sorry if that is a stupid question.

 

[SlowGT]

In any event, if you decide to go electric, here's the way to control it --- www.dccontrol.com variable speed controller that ties pump and fans together with variable speed to keep the car at a fixed operating temp.

sweet


www.zirgo.com has a couple of different controllers also.


.

 

[PhLoBuS]

an electric one is good if you got the money if not just stick with the stock one... I just recently fixed mine

 

[87gtconv]

I put in an Edelbrock pump about 10 years ago and it works fine and keeps me stang real cool!

 

[jaackal]

i have a question about water pumps, on the police interceptor issued mustangs used for highway patrol they use a heavy duty fan clutch, do they also use a different water pump, or is it the same that is on any 5.0

 

[criticman]

I went with the Summit Racing "High Flow" water pump. It was like $75 shipped and has been very good to me. I would call it a nice "budget" upgrade to the OEM replacements out there.

 

[larrendeuce]

I put in a autozone(duralast) pump today. One thing I noticed that I didn't like was that it had considerably more resistance to turn then the stock pump. I'm not sure if thats because its new and not broken in, or that it's designed that way. I thought it was worth noting.