Best Way To Blow 3k?????

Rickybob

Member
Jan 1, 2018
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Ok here it is , i have a 88 notch with stick 5.0 w built up c4 w manual valve body, frame connectors , stock 8.8 rear, shorty headers. I have also aquired threw the years a holley 750 double pumper and edelbrock rpm air gap intake and a set of 456 for rear end. Going to be a drag car so my question is where is my 3k best spent next? Aluminum heads? Nos ? Or concentrate on suspension??
 
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Welcome to Stangnet.

How about I move your thread over to the fox general talk subforum. You'll get lots of replies there.
 
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If you are committed long term, and have goals of running down into the 10's...
Cage, tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop,Baseline adjustable upper/lower control arms(relocated uppers), strange adjustable shocks/struts.
Dialed in with weigh reduction you've got a consistent/reliable mid/high 12 second car.
But the foundation is there for low 10's.
Add power later, and, if committed to 4.56's, you are going to be getting up there in rpm, and, rpm costs $$$.
If this is a whim...
tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop, Jegs control arms, Lakewood shocks and a 175 n2o kit, sell the 4.56's and get 4.10's...
When the track it just right and everything aligns, this will run down into the mid 11's, but, you'll be at the limit of everything, and, some nights you'll run low 12's and be pedaling it out to 330'. It'll not be the most consistent setup, but it'll be reliable (assuming n2o tune is spot on)
Figure out if you like the sport, and go from there.
Let us know when you're ready to spend the next $3k.
 
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^^yep, with the addition of chassis/cage cert's and licensees... and a chute? right?
not familiar with the rule book... is it 9.99 when you need more than a 6point and cage certs?
 
Welcome to Stangnet.

How about I move your thread over to the fox general talk subforum. You'll get lots of replies there
If you are committed long term, and have goals of running down into the 10's...
Cage, tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop,Baseline adjustable upper/lower control arms(relocated uppers), strange adjustable shocks/struts.
Dialed in with weigh reduction you've got a consistent/reliable mid/high 12 second car.
But the foundation is there for low 10's.
Add power later, and, if committed to 4.56's, you are going to be getting up there in rpm, and, rpm costs $$$.
If this is a whim...
tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop, Jegs control arms, Lakewood shocks and a 175 n2o kit, sell the 4.56's and get 4.10's...
When the track it just right and everything aligns, this will run down into the mid 11's, but, you'll be at the limit of everything, and, some nights you'll run low 12's and be pedaling it out to 330'. It'll not be the most consistent setup, but it'll be reliable (assuming n2o tune is spot on)
Figure out if you like the sport, and go from there.
Let us know when you're ready to spend the next $3k.
Thanks for the info thats exactly what i was after. Ill do chassis this winter and ill be ready to bkow another 3k by summer lol
 
Yup, quicker than a 10.0. Then you can get an 8 point certified for as quick as 8.5 sec. Plus a competition lic required. After that you get into what is called the 'funny car" cage, 25.2 cert gets you to 7.5 sec. and so on. Any speed 150 mph or over calls for a parachute. Don't have to use it, but it needs to be on the car.
 
Yup, quicker than a 10.0. Then you can get an 8 point certified for as quick as 8.5 sec. Plus a competition lic required. After that you get into what is called the 'funny car" cage, 25.2 cert gets you to 7.5 sec. and so on. Any speed 150 mph or over calls for a parachute. Don't have to use it, but it needs to be on the car.
Thanks for advice and info. Im going shopping !
 
Cheeper than wives it a lot if cases

Fram.png
 
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If you are committed long term, and have goals of running down into the 10's...
Cage, tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop,Baseline adjustable upper/lower control arms(relocated uppers), strange adjustable shocks/struts.
Dialed in with weigh reduction you've got a consistent/reliable mid/high 12 second car.
But the foundation is there for low 10's.
Add power later, and, if committed to 4.56's, you are going to be getting up there in rpm, and, rpm costs $$$.
If this is a whim...
tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop, Jegs control arms, Lakewood shocks and a 175 n2o kit, sell the 4.56's and get 4.10's...
When the track it just right and everything aligns, this will run down into the mid 11's, but, you'll be at the limit of everything, and, some nights you'll run low 12's and be pedaling it out to 330'. It'll not be the most consistent setup, but it'll be reliable (assuming n2o tune is spot on)
Figure out if you like the sport, and go from there.
Let us know when you're ready to spend th
If you are committed long term, and have goals of running down into the 10's...
Cage, tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop,Baseline adjustable upper/lower control arms(relocated uppers), strange adjustable shocks/struts.
Dialed in with weigh reduction you've got a consistent/reliable mid/high 12 second car.
But the foundation is there for low 10's.
Add power later, and, if committed to 4.56's, you are going to be getting up there in rpm, and, rpm costs $$$.
If this is a whim...
tq box reinforcing, axles, welded tubes, spool, driveshaft loop, Jegs control arms, Lakewood shocks and a 175 n2o kit, sell the 4.56's and get 4.10's...
When the track it just right and everything aligns, this will run down into the mid 11's, but, you'll be at the limit of everything, and, some nights you'll run low 12's and be pedaling it out to 330'. It'll not be the most consistent setup, but it'll be reliable (assuming n2o tune is spot on)
Figure out if you like the sport, and go from there.
Let us know when you're ready to spend the next $3k.
What do you figure is my best bet for axles and carrier? Looling on summit website and there s a lot of options for 31 spline carriers ranging from 250$ to 800bucks and on.
 
I think you have to detail exactly what you are going to do with the car.
Full time drag race car?
Driving it on the street?
Quarter mile goals?
Is it fuel injected right now?
Real world budget you are willing to spend on the car down the road?

$3000 is a lot to spend on a street car, but on a sub 10 second car it's not much different than being totally broke...

Right now it seems too broad of a scope of build to really give any advice.
 
I think you have to detail exactly what you are going to do with the car.
Full time drag race car?
Driving it on the street?
Quarter mile goals?
Is it fuel injected right now?
Real world budget you are willing to spend on the car down the road?

$3000 is a lot to spend on a street car, but on a sub 10 second car it's not much different than being totally broke...

Right now it seems too broad of a scope of build to really give any advice.
Well my goal is mid 10s and i plan on driving it on street maybe a handful of times per summer. Not that important that its street legal more of a strip car. Fuel injected now but was going to change to carb in future along with nos. Basically looking for a nasty little quarter mile stang that'll lift the front wheels for the first 60'.
 
Well my goal is mid 10s and i plan on driving it on street maybe a handful of times per summer. Not that important that its street legal more of a strip car. Fuel injected now but was going to change to carb in future along with nos. Basically looking for a nasty little quarter mile stang that'll lift the front wheels for the first 60'.

Some things to consider:

Forget the carb, it's not necessary and really serves no purpose in a modern world other than destroying the car's value.

Mid 10's probably isn't going to happen reliably with the stock block.

Surpassing the stock block threshold is ridiculously expensive.

Make sure you proceed fully understanding the cost behind going that fast. If you break a stock block loaded with quality parts, you may indeed ruin every part on it.

My advice? Should for 11.50's, probably cost 1/3 off the money and be just as fun.

I'm a little torn on the advice to give about the rear at this point, if you plan on dumping $3000 into the car every month for the next year, id say go all out on it, if not I see no point in blowing the entire budget with over kill, no sense having a rear that supports 1000rwhp when your car makes 200rwhp.

The reality is that where you stand now with power, you could do a bearing kit, rebuild the carrier with a carbon clutch kit and do 4.10 gears and be good to go spending the minimum and beefing up the chassis and suspension with the rest of the money.
It wouldn't be the end of the world, the gears and bearings would be reusable later if you really needed more rear.
 
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street/strip... detroit true track.
strip... and an occasional carefully scheduled run to the ice cream store... spool.
with those 4.56's... and 10's as a goal... start budgeting for good a 4bolt block.
also, at those rpms, it's going to be a lot cheaper/easier in the long run to go carb...
I went EFI and am happy to have done so, but good-god the tuning to get an A9l happy at 7000+rpm.
 
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