Best way to lift motor

65poppy · May 2, 2011

I got a load leveler from Harbor Freight. It already has brackets with bolt holes in them for mounting to the motor. Here's what I have:

View attachment 190147

The question is, where is the best place to lift the motor? I was thinking the bolt holes on the end of each head would be a good place. Where is the best place to atach the brackets to lift the motor? Here's my engine, a 1965 289 2v:

Thanks,
Steve-o

gregski · May 2, 2011

I have the same leveler and it works great, especially if you are going to go at it alone, as far as where to bolt it down to I would go into the heads on the sides where the alternator and or AC accessories bolt on to, be VERY CAREFUL the chain won't snag your distributor as I see you still have it in, shoot I see you have the alternator still on there, I would remove as many accessories as I could like the alternator and the oil filter anything that could catch on something that way I would have more wiggle room

65poppy · May 2, 2011

gregski said:
I have the same leveler and it works great, especially if you are going to go at it alone, as far as where to bolt it down to I would go into the heads on the sides where the alternator and or AC accessories bolt on to, be VERY CAREFUL the chain won't snag your distributor as I see you still have it in, shoot I see you have the alternator still on there, I would remove as many accessories as I could like the alternator and the oil filter anything that could catch on something that way I would have more wiggle room

Yes, I already planned on taking the fan off, but I guess I'll take the alternator and oil filter off too. The chrome alternator brackets have to go anyway.

I may as well pull the pulleys off too. I want to change to pulleys to single groove since I'm not putting A/C or Power Steering on the car for now.

And the dizzy is just filling the hole, that's not the dizzy I'm going to use. So that can come off too.

Did you buy specail bolts, or just use regular "leftover" bolts from the "bolt bin"?

Thanks,
Steve-o

robbz28 · May 2, 2011

Are you putting in the engine and transmission together? In my 67 I pulled and installed my 289 & c4 with a simple chain hoist and no load leveler, the transmission was enough counter on the rear to nearly bring the engine out perfectly, even left the crank pulley on (it was REAL tight though). Got it back in the same way, only this time I had the engine bay all repainted, so I took a welding glove and slipped it over the tailshaft of the tranny so when it did hit the firewall it wouldnt scratch things up, slid right in, zero help with the removal or install, just me, a hoist and a sunday afternoon.

blown65 · May 2, 2011

I just use the Carb plate and pull from there on the front hole.

I have one of those pictured but hate using it. The Carb deal works perfect IMO

robbz28 · May 2, 2011

Oh yeah, to answer your other question, regular bolts are fine, just make sure they are screwed in good.

gregski · May 2, 2011

65poppy said:
Did you buy specail bolts, or just use regular "leftover" bolts from the "bolt bin"?

Regular bolts but I double up on the washers, cheap insurance for the head of the bolt going through that soft harbor freight bracket material, if you could get a buddy to help it would be worth it, even a wife can work the engine crane up and down while you manaouver the beast into it's resting place

65poppy · May 3, 2011

robbz28 said:
Are you putting in the engine and transmission together? In my 67 I pulled and installed my 289 & c4 with a simple chain hoist and no load leveler, the transmission was enough counter on the rear to nearly bring the engine out perfectly, even left the crank pulley on (it was REAL tight though). Got it back in the same way, only this time I had the engine bay all repainted, so I took a welding glove and slipped it over the tailshaft of the tranny so when it did hit the firewall it wouldnt scratch things up, slid right in, zero help with the removal or install, just me, a hoist and a sunday afternoon.

Yes, I plan on attaching the tranny (torque converter, flywheel, dustplate, bell housing & tranny) before I drop the motor in. That's a good idea about putting a glove ont he back of the transmission. I plan on draping plenty of blankets & towls over the engine & engine bay. I definitely don't want to scratch anything!

Here's a "before" pic:

Here's an "after" pic:

65poppy · May 3, 2011

blown65 said:
I just use the Carb plate and pull from there on the front hole.

I have one of those pictured but hate using it. The Carb deal works perfect IMO

What does a carb plate look like? Does it just bolt to the intake? Do you have a pic?

Thanks,
Steve-o

65poppy · May 3, 2011

gregski said:
Regular bolts but I double up on the washers, cheap insurance for the head of the bolt going through that soft harbor freight bracket material, if you could get a buddy to help it would be worth it, even a wife can work the engine crane up and down while you manaouver the beast into it's resting place

Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to double up on the washers. Also, I want to be sure I don't scratch the heads. I could cut plastic "washers" from a milk jug and put them between the washers/bracket and the painted surface of the head. Do you think that would be enough to protect the painted surface of the head?

Thanks,
Steve-o

2+2GT · May 3, 2011

65poppy said:
The question is, where is the best place to lift the motor? I was thinking the bolt holes on the end of each head would be a good place. Where is the best place to attach the brackets to lift the motor?

pabear89 · May 3, 2011

2+2Gt ahs perfect placement for installing.

Its just my 2cts but I would install the steering system and braking system BEFORE installing eng/trans.
The extra working room will make your life easier than working around the installed eng.

2+2GT · May 3, 2011

pabear89 said:
Its just my 2cts but I would install the steering system and braking system BEFORE installing eng/trans.
The extra working room will make your life easier than working around the installed eng.

I agree. Last summer I helped install the engine in a 68 GT500. The one thing not installed before the "drop" was, of course, the equalizer. Good thing the master cylinder had not yet been installed. Wowzers! On the completed car, you can't really even see it.

blown65 · May 3, 2011

65poppy said:
What does a carb plate look like? Does it just bolt to the intake? Do you have a pic?

Thanks,
Steve-o

Mr. Gasket 33027G - Mr. Gasket Engine Lift Plates - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Done it this way for years and never a problem.

They did some testing on it and it supports way more than the engine/trans combo weights. I believe it was hot rod or something of that nature.

mustangmutt · May 3, 2011

I always use the Carb flange lifting plate and raise the rear of the car as high as possible.

<a href="http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/Stabbing%20engines/?action=view&current=P5300247.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/Stabbing%20engines/P5300247.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/Stabbing%20engines/?action=view&current=1967EleanoreforBeeps476.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/Stabbing%20engines/1967EleanoreforBeeps476.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/Stabbing%20engines/?action=view&current=67RUSTANG221.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j355/ejkustomotive/Stabbing%20engines/67RUSTANG221.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

blown65 · May 3, 2011

Nice idea, never though of doing it that way with the 4 post. LOL

67rcks · May 4, 2011

302+t5 combo will fit but it is very tight (i.e. <.5"). Lifting rear may help though.
IMO it is much more important to have a crane with a long arm than this leveler. Those cheapest HF 1ton cranes are too short for mustangs

mustangmutt · May 4, 2011

blown65 said:
Nice idea, never though of doing it that way with the 4 post. LOL

It works out pretty nice because as you drop the engine in you can lower the car. I have also done it with Jack Stands, but I don't have any pics and you can't lower the car as you stab the engine.

mustangmutt · May 4, 2011

67rcks said:
302+t5 combo will fit but it is very tight (i.e. <.5"). Lifting rear may help though.
IMO it is much more important to have a crane with a long arm than this leveler. Those cheapest HF 1ton cranes are too short for mustangs

That is a cheap HF crane in my pictures.

65poppy · May 4, 2011

pabear89 said:
2+2Gt ahs perfect placement for installing.

Its just my 2cts but I would install the steering system and braking system BEFORE installing eng/trans.
The extra working room will make your life easier than working around the installed eng.

Yes, here is my engine compartment today. I still have to put the master cylinder, distribution block and proportioning valve in and then hook all the brake lines together.

Thanks,
Steve-o

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