best way to pull A MOTOR NEED HELP

heres the deal.. ive had problems w/ this motor for a long time.. and i finally said F it and get another one.. so today i picked up another motor w/70k on it but it came outa a Automatic.. will this be a direct drop in? also is there some kind of bearing i have to replace in the back of the motor? and what is the best method to pull the motor? like just ublolt the tranny frrom the block and pull it or pull them out together or drop the tranny and pull the motor.. i really would appreaciate the help.. but im really kinda in an Aw about the diff bearing needs to be the back of the motor.. so please give me some insight fellas

thanks :hail2: :hail2: :hail2:
 
it will bolt up directly once you replace the dust shield and flywheel from a manual and add the pilot bearing into the end of the crank. aside from that, ive only had experience removing one engine, and we took it out with the bellhousing and transmission still attached. (94 gt with a t5). came out nice and easy that way (fan, radiator, and accesory brackets removed). good luck with it.
 
IMO, it's easier if you remove the transmission first. It should only take an additional 15-20 minutes at most to remove the tranny and bellhousing.

Make sure you label everything and "bag and tag" all the bolts. It makes re-assembly much easier. Taking pictures is also a good idea, I know I used mine several times.

You will need to disconnect all lines and hoses that connect the engine to the body. You can disconnect the main harness at the rear passenger side of the engine bay. Then disconnect the wires at the battery and any vacuum lines. There is also a ground strap going from the driver side motor mount to the frame rail. You will need to unbolt the A/C compressor (below the P/S pump) and move it out of the way. You will also need a fuel line disconnect tool, which you can buy online (got mine at 50resto.com) or Autozone or Advance should have them.

I removed the upper intake and used and intake lift plate to pull the engine.
100_0625.JPG


It's really not too difficult. I had mine out in around 10 hours start to finish working kinda slow, plus we took a dinner break in that time and consumed a good bit of alcohol during the process :). That was my first time pulling an engine, but I had removed the transmission before. It's also a good idea to have a friend helping you, especially when removing the transmission.

Good luck! :flag:
 
When I did mine, I took the tranny off and it made it alot easier. I didn't have to unbolt the fan or the radiator. Oh, and when you take off the A/C pump, just put it to the side and you won't have to have it evacuated. Take off the intake manifold, accessory brackets, all wiring, unbolt the two motor mounts, and pull that sucker out. It's easier if you have 2 friends with you to help guide it out.
 
You will need to swap the flexplate out for a flywheel, and install a new pilot bearing. I highly recommend renting a pilot bearing puller from advance or auto zone. With the puller, I had mine changed in 5 minutes. Without the puller, it ended up taking me around 5 or 6 hours to change, and we had to use an air chisel to get it out.
 
Odds are he's right on with the pilot shaft bearing, Dif bearing is in the rear end... the pilot is tucked inside the end of the crank....
I would check the oilpan gaskets and the rear main seal while its out...the rear main is just a bigger version of a axle seal...check the front seal behind the balancer too...much easier while its out and its all cheap stuff...
While its out I would go for as much as you can since is gravy to swap things when its out, it you have a few bucks...waterpump comes to mind, throw some new plugs in it to...
You could just unbolt the tranny and go from there...leaving your old set-up intact...that how I did mine...

This is the Napa P/N for the pilot shaft bearing..the small one..

throwout_bearing.jpg
 
95CobraMike said:
i see you are from findlay! i work there 4 days a week, im actually from columbus grove which is about 25 miles from you... :nice:


where do u work at in findlay??.. to be honest guys this is my first time ever doing sucha thing.. so hopefully it wont be a big pain in the ass.. yeah Mike i think ive talked to u before.. its been a while back but yeah.. ha stop by sometime and check out the stang.. thanks guys and more info would be great..
 
i work for fortman electric, we are wiring that new church over by liberty benton high school....gateway church i think its called....

taking the engine out isnt too bad i did it about a month ago, it was my first time, but it went good...just ask alot of questions and take your time
 
95CobraMike said:
i work for fortman electric, we are wiring that new church over by liberty benton high school....gateway church i think its called....

taking the engine out isnt too bad i did it about a month ago, it was my first time, but it went good...just ask alot of questions and take your time


i pickedup my motor in lima today actually at some place called armys.. i got a good price on the motor soo no complaints but its worth a shot to do this.. so what do u guys think the best method on pullin the motor? cause ima start 2morrow afternoon
 
Low-5.0 said:
IMO, it's easier if you remove the transmission first. It should only take an additional 15-20 minutes at most to remove the tranny and bellhousing.

Make sure you label everything and "bag and tag" all the bolts. It makes re-assembly much easier. Taking pictures is also a good idea, I know I used mine several times.

You will need to disconnect all lines and hoses that connect the engine to the body. You can disconnect the main harness at the rear passenger side of the engine bay. Then disconnect the wires at the battery and any vacuum lines. There is also a ground strap going from the driver side motor mount to the frame rail. You will need to unbolt the A/C compressor (below the P/S pump) and move it out of the way. You will also need a fuel line disconnect tool, which you can buy online (got mine at 50resto.com) or Autozone or Advance should have them.

I removed the upper intake and used and intake lift plate to pull the engine.
100_0625.JPG


It's really not too difficult. I had mine out in around 10 hours start to finish working kinda slow, plus we took a dinner break in that time and consumed a good bit of alcohol during the process :). That was my first time pulling an engine, but I had removed the transmission before. It's also a good idea to have a friend helping you, especially when removing the transmission.

Good luck! :flag:


Ditto for me except I removed the A/C but I had a front end mishap and the system evacuated itself (not a concern for me). This was my first ever engine rebuild. I did the removal and rebuild all by myself but my brother help me with the install. You can take it out yourself just take your time. Oh yeah and she runs real strong just continuing to work on my TwEECer tune. I'm proud of myself. Just One Man's Opinion. Peace
 
Low-5.0 said:
You will need to swap the flexplate out for a flywheel, and install a new pilot bearing. I highly recommend renting a pilot bearing puller from advance or auto zone. With the puller, I had mine changed in 5 minutes. Without the puller, it ended up taking me around 5 or 6 hours to change, and we had to use an air chisel to get it out.
his is an auto motor, it doesen't come with a pilot bearing.
 
If I remember correctly...you have 2 factory steel "loops" installed at the corners of the block diagonally for this purpose....Just pick from those 2 points...
You have your share of BS parts to disconnect to get to a point where its free to pull...BAG AND TAG bolts.... and I.D. electrical or vac lines with electrical or masking tape like A-A, B-B you get the picture, whatever works for you....Makes re-assy much easier if youv'e never taken out and engine........there's alot of little chit to undo...

Enjoy.... :nice: