Engine Best way to remove thermostat gasket without damaging surface?
- Thread starter dqureshi06
- Start date
Actually, a broad knife on the dullish side works better than razor blades. Mine looks something like this:
The only thing I use it for is gaskets.
You can find something like it at parts stores, gas stations, the jungle website, pretty much anywhere.
The wire wheel will be fine so long as you don't go nuts. Use brass bristles if you have it. The stainless is fine too but requires a bit of care.
The only thing I use it for is gaskets.
You can find something like it at parts stores, gas stations, the jungle website, pretty much anywhere.
The wire wheel will be fine so long as you don't go nuts. Use brass bristles if you have it. The stainless is fine too but requires a bit of care.
I was using a wire wheel fairly aggressively and watched it remove some metal from an edge of my engine block.... Surprised the heck out me... I wouldn't use one on a critical surface......
I used to have a Snap On gasket scraper when I was working at the Auto Glass Shop, to remove the old urethane or butyl from the pinchweld...... It was not a putty knife type of scraper but more of a square shank screwdriver with a flattened end that had what looked like a carbide edge.... It worked really well for getting a surface clean......
I used to have a Snap On gasket scraper when I was working at the Auto Glass Shop, to remove the old urethane or butyl from the pinchweld...... It was not a putty knife type of scraper but more of a square shank screwdriver with a flattened end that had what looked like a carbide edge.... It worked really well for getting a surface clean......
This is similar to what I use to get a gasket off. I follow up with a brass brush to get the really small stuff.
Brake parts cleaner is good at softening the gasket up and for final clean before installing the new one.
The thermostat housing, timing chain cover and lower intake (what the thermostat housing bolts to not the block) are all aluminum so they all scar easy. The block is cast iron so you can be a little more forceful there.
Always check the thermostat housing for flatness as they tend to not be flat and you will fight leaks.
Brake parts cleaner is good at softening the gasket up and for final clean before installing the new one.
The thermostat housing, timing chain cover and lower intake (what the thermostat housing bolts to not the block) are all aluminum so they all scar easy. The block is cast iron so you can be a little more forceful there.
Always check the thermostat housing for flatness as they tend to not be flat and you will fight leaks.
How about sandpaper? Would that be ok to use?Actually, a broad knife on the dullish side works better than razor blades. Mine looks something like this:
The only thing I use it for is gaskets.
You can find something like it at parts stores, gas stations, the jungle website, pretty much anywhere.
The wire wheel will be fine so long as you don't go nuts. Use brass bristles if you have it. The stainless is fine too but requires a bit of care.
You will take metal off with sandpaper no matter how careful you are. You want mating surfaces to the [flat].
Just take a razor blade, cheap scraper or your pocket knife, scrape the gasket off, clean with some brake cleaner, goop it up with some RTV on both sides, snug it up wait 24 hrs, snug it again and send it.
This is the small write up i did last time i redid some things on my engine. Maybe something in there will help. I wrote it because i too always struggled with the surface of the housing sealing good. Never had a problem again after i started doing this.
Post in thread 'Water Pump Install' https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/water-pump-install.911867/post-9198301
Post in thread 'Water Pump Install' https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/water-pump-install.911867/post-9198301
I use a sharp chisel...flipped upside down. This prevents it from digging in. I will then use a purple scotch pad to finish it off.
If I need to true up any surface (t-stat housing, cylinder head, exhaust manifold, etc), I will use between 200 and 1000 grit sandpaper on a large piece of glass. I use Windex to keep everything wet. It works great. I will also use a whetstone to clean and true up heads, blocks, and manifolds. Make sure you get a new stone often to ensure it is flat.
It's a poor man's lathe...I used to port 2 stroke engines and would use this method. I could get the surface square to 1 thou all the way around.
If I need to true up any surface (t-stat housing, cylinder head, exhaust manifold, etc), I will use between 200 and 1000 grit sandpaper on a large piece of glass. I use Windex to keep everything wet. It works great. I will also use a whetstone to clean and true up heads, blocks, and manifolds. Make sure you get a new stone often to ensure it is flat.
It's a poor man's lathe...I used to port 2 stroke engines and would use this method. I could get the surface square to 1 thou all the way around.
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