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big blocks question

  • Thread starter Thread starter skywalker
  • Start date Start date Jun 30, 2004

skywalker

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Dec 22, 2003
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Pensacola, FL
Jun 30, 2004
#1
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #1
If I wanted to by a block to start a big block build, who would be the best manufacturer (Since dart doesn't make them) and where would I buy them?

Are aluminum big blocks available?
 

TireSmoknWindsr

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Half past whup'n some import's ass
Jun 30, 2004
#2
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #2
skywalker said:
If I wanted to by a block to start a big block build, who would be the best manufacturer (Since dart doesn't make them) and where would I buy them?

Are aluminum big blocks available?
Click to expand...


The only aluminum I'm aware of is the Shelby 427s which would cost a HECK of alot of money. Try Perogie.com...they carry blocks alot. I'd look into the FE family for a bigblock...cant beat 'em.
 

skywalker

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#3
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #3
Yeah, I was looking towards the FE's.

I want to keep the weight down so as not t hurt the handling to badly, but I also want that big block torque, so...

Maybe I should just stroke a 351W?
 
D

D.Hearne

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#4
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #4
You might also consider a 351 Cleveland. It's also a drop in swap from a small block, plus you don't have to go shopping for aftermarket heads, and it makes the torque of a big block even without stroking it.
 
S

ssppiitt

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#5
  • Jun 30, 2004
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Go with a stroked 351W. Very light, small, and you can modifiy these babies to your hearts desire.
 

skywalker

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#6
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #6
D.Hearne said:
You might also consider a 351 Cleveland. It's also a drop in swap from a small block, plus you don't have to go shopping for aftermarket heads, and it makes the torque of a big block even without stroking it.
Click to expand...

Eh...living in a very warm climate and not having plans (due to my military career) to ever move to a cooler climate (perhaps to a warmer one though), the stories about the cleveland's heat issues scare me away from it.
 

skywalker

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#7
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #7
ssppiitt said:
Go with a stroked 351W. Very light, small, and you can modifiy these babies to your hearts desire.
Click to expand...

To what should I stroke it though? I would think around 427. But this will require some notching et cetera won't it?
 

TireSmoknWindsr

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#8
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #8
If a driver...I'd say 393/408 Windsor...but if you arent driving it everyday I'd make a 427 stroker. You could always stick w/ an FE and use Aluminum heads and intake waterpump, etc...it'd reduce the weight ALOT.
 

skywalker

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#9
  • Jun 30, 2004
  • #9
Could anyone give me some weight comparisons? Either way I go I plan to go with aluminum heads so...
 
D

D.Hearne

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#10
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #10
skywalker said:
Eh...living in a very warm climate and not having plans (due to my military career) to ever move to a cooler climate (perhaps to a warmer one though), the stories about the cleveland's heat issues scare me away from it.
Click to expand...
Funny , I never hear of anyone now having heat issues with them The only thing I know of concerning that would be Ford had a habit of using to small a radiator with many of their applications back in the 60's & 70's. If you fail to change your present radiator to something larger than what you're running now with that 289, your plans for a big block or stroked Windsor will also include overheating problems.
 

skywalker

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Pensacola, FL
Jul 1, 2004
#11
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #11
I currently have a fairly large radiator (ask 65shlbycln, his reaction to seeing it was: "The's a huge radiator." I plan to put a 3 row aluminum radiator regardless.
 

bud4660

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Apr 14, 2002
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Mesquite, Tx
Jul 1, 2004
#12
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #12
skywalker said:
If I wanted to by a block to start a big block build, who would be the best manufacturer (Since dart doesn't make them) and where would I buy them?

Are aluminum big blocks available?
Click to expand...
Here's you a web site to look at prices. SO that might help you decide which way to go. I'm doing the FE build myself.

http://www.keithcraft.com/new_site1/our_engines.html
 

Timmy

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May 17, 2002
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Jul 1, 2004
#13
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #13
I remember seeing somthing about that aluminum Shelby 427 block was 10K....
 

Max Power

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Jul 31, 2003
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St Paul
Jul 1, 2004
#14
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #14
I think Dove made aluminum FE blocks.

You gotta be a banker to afford one though.

393 stroker will get you 425-450 horse easy, be lighter by 150lbs, and allow room to work on things, run headers, etc.
 

bud4660

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#15
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #15
Timmy said:
I remember seeing somthing about that aluminum Shelby 427 block was 10K....
Click to expand...
Here the prices off KC's web site. You can spend as muchas you like depending on what you want. FE's other than stock are going to be somewhere between $9k and you can go all the way up to over $20k. Just depends on how much alum and trick parts you want in it.
Shelby Aluminum blocks $4,995.00
Big bore blocks $5,495.00
Head studs $350.00
Complete machined ready to run add $400.00
You have to add the ready to run to the alum blocks price.
 

clev357

This one time in man camp...
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#16
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  • #16
D.Hearne said:
Funny , I never hear of anyone now having heat issues with them
Click to expand...

I have, everytime a clueless engine builder gets a hold of one. There is a Brass plate pressed in the water jacket just under where the thermostat goes. It gets left out all the time. However, it is very important. It keeps coolant from flowing constantly. If left out fluid doesn't stay in the RAD. long enough to be cooled.

I've also heard of late 70's 351m's running hot. I think it was a head casting issue though.
 
6

67stangvert

Founding Member
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Jul 1, 2004
#17
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #17
Timmy said:
I remember seeing somthing about that aluminum Shelby 427 block was 10K....
Click to expand...

I called about the 427. Complete 472, top to bottom, worked, tuned and ready to drop in - merely $25,000.

Tha was 2 years ago.
 

Timmy

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#18
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #18
25K That's large..............
 
D

D.Hearne

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#19
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #19
clev357 said:
I have, everytime a clueless engine builder gets a hold of one. There is a Brass plate pressed in the water jacket just under where the thermostat goes. It gets left out all the time. However, it is very important. It keeps coolant from flowing constantly. If left out fluid doesn't stay in the RAD. long enough to be cooled.

I've also heard of late 70's 351m's running hot. I think it was a head casting issue though.
Click to expand...
I've heard of them running hot too, including other motors from different engine families as well. 99% of the time, it's from the head gaskets being installed backwards Over heating issues can be over come and shouldn't preclude someone from trying something different.
 
D

D.Hearne

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#20
  • Jul 1, 2004
  • #20
Then again, maybe he should stay away from the Clevelands, just leave more for us who appreciate them.
 
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