Hey, my friend bought a 90 lx s'charged. It has stock manifold, heads, cams, throttle body. Recently it has been chuggin, takin a few triesd to turn it over and to keep it running. Now today it doesnt stay on at all. It starts, then gets real choppy, rpms are all over the place, then it will quit. Ive tried to give it gas from start up and all it does when the rps drop is just quit. I think it has the oil it needs, and the coolant, so on so forth. If it helps its a novi 1k. its a funky aode. what could it be? i have a half tank of gas, 93 octane, ive checked airways and all seems decent. could it be a dirty maf? or throttle body? what else could it be, thx for the bigtime help in advance.
Big Help in a hurry!!!!
- Thread starter CArkid0101
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Jaswir
Member
check all spark plug wires, maybe change them and the spark plugs... Its possible the maf has gone bad... No engine light on? i think the way it sounds its somewhere with plugs
Jaswir
Member
you can buy a code scanner at any autoparts store or wal mart or you can do it with just a test light. jricher has a whole write up about it. This is one of the sites that he lists. http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Thenemesis
Member
sounds like a MAF problem.. had a issue with a 89 that was maddd crazzy when its MAF was screwing.. my 2 cents
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