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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Bite size chunks to keep I6->V8 drivable

  • Thread starter Thread starter fallingfromfait
  • Start date Start date Oct 12, 2007

fallingfromfait

New Member
Oct 12, 2007
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0
Oct 12, 2007
#1
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #1
I'm looking to do the whole I6 auto to manual V8 thing, but would like to keep the car as drivable as possible throughout the transition. I know, I know - more money than sense, buy a v8 and start from there, etc., etc. No can do. My father-in-law built this car for my wife when she was a teenager and he has since passed away. So lots of emotional attachment. I just wanna make it fun if it's gonna sit in my driveway.

So...what do you guys think would be the best order to do things to keep it as drivable as possible.

Think bite size chunks like...

1st = 9" rear/gears, rear suspension, 2 rims/tires
2nd = front suspension, front disc brakes, 2 rims/tires
3rd = big bite - radiator, motor, tranny, exhaust ???

Any help on the most logical transition steps would be greatly appreciated.

The interior & body/paint are intact BTW.

Thanks in advance.
fff
 
C

chromedog

New Member
Jan 13, 2006
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worlds center for speed
Oct 12, 2007
#2
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #2
i know very well the emotional attachment thing, my restomod was my sisters first car, she saved up, and bought it when she was 16... j think your approach is the most logical, given the fact you was to keep it drivable throughout the whole process.you didnt state which trans you are going to use, as it will make a difference as to the parts you will need for the swap. if you are going to a 5 speed, you will most likely want a little higher gear in the rear,different crossmember, etc. give us more info on your plan, and we will do all we can to make this as easy as possible.
 

NasaGT

Founding Member
Sep 19, 2002
1,993
2
49
Virginia
Oct 12, 2007
#3
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #3
Brakes first, all else after.
 
G

gjz30075

Member
Aug 30, 2004
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Roswell, Ga
Oct 12, 2007
#4
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #4
I don't know how powerful you want to make the V8 but keep your options open on the rear end. It doesn't necessarily need to be a 9". There are plenty of 8" '65/'66 housings out there with wimpy gears to get you started. You can later change out the gears to something more aggressive. But I think for a couple hundred bucks, you can get an 8" housing with brakes, drums, and something like a 2.8 or 3.0 gear.
 
C

chromedog

New Member
Jan 13, 2006
554
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0
worlds center for speed
Oct 12, 2007
#5
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #5
you are going to need v8 spindles for the disc brake conversion...
 

brianj5600

Active Member
Sep 19, 2003
1,964
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39
Middle TN
Oct 12, 2007
#6
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #6
What year is it?
 

fallingfromfait

New Member
Oct 12, 2007
2
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Oct 12, 2007
#7
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #7
1966 Coupe. duh. Forgot to mention the car. I'm trying to as much as possible on the sly, so the wifey will be super suprised. She's probably getting suspicious when I drop my web browser every time she comes near the computer. (yup honey it's ****, not mustangs!!!)

I mainly want to keep it drivable and do things in small chunks because we don't have a garage/carport to store it when disassembled.

Concerning the rear/gears...just so much talk about 9" that I thought that would be the route to go. I'm game for other options if it makes more sense. Honestly, I just want to do things once & correctly, even if it's a bit more expensive. This car is the huge reflection of her father. He saved up, worked hard, and built it especially for her. I just want to do it justice. It's gonna be a family member for a long time.

I know this stuff has been covered a million times, but I appreciate all of your expertise & advice.
 
G

gjz30075

Member
Aug 30, 2004
250
0
17
Roswell, Ga
Oct 12, 2007
#8
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #8
I would do the front suspension first. But it's all so integrated. Going to V8 front spindles means disk brakes (hopefully) which means different master cylinder and proportioning valve. If you do the rear end first, that means a different drive shaft because your current one will be the wrong length and probably have different U joints on them to bolt up to the 8"/9". Then, you ask yourself, will it fit into my current C4 trans? Probably, I'm not that familiar with the auto trans behind an I-6. If not, then you're looking at changing the trans to a manual (as you wanted), then its pedals, linkage, etc. Its very tough to do something like this in bits and pieces with minimal downtime. Do your homework thoroughly.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Oct 12, 2007
#9
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #9
Do the brakes and suspension first and check out the swap sticky.
 

67project

New Member
Dec 14, 2004
12
0
2
Oct 12, 2007
#10
  • Oct 12, 2007
  • #10
I did this swap a few years back. However I did it as part of the whole restoration so I did not have to worry about keeping the car drivable.

My advice to you would be to do the steering/suspension/brake conversion first, as this is one of the most straightforward and contained parts of this swap.

The rear end will get tricky b/c as someone above mentioned it will require you to use a different drive shaft.

I personally went with an 8in rear and I have no complaints. Its behind a slightly modified 302 (heads, headers, cam, intake, carb) and its holding up just fine. Besides being easier to find, the 8inch rears are lighter and cheaper so thats food for thought.

Ebay, junk yards and, craigslist.com will be your friend when hunting down parts. Ebay is where I located my rear end, spindles and drive shaft.

Best of luck. The rewards are worth the effort. Nothing beats the sound of eight cylinders firing.
 
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