Blaster Coil questions

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
15 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa
I installed an MSD Blaster Coil for giggles, no real good reason. Since the install, I have a static in the speakers when my radio is on, and of course it changes with rpms. Anybody run into this? Do you think I have a bad ground, or do performance coils just create a little interference? Also, since that install along with my MSD replacement cap and rotor, my car has a bit of a surging idle. It idles around 675 but revs to 850-900, and then falls, and then revs, and then falls. Ive checked all vacuum lines repeatedly, and asked yall if I have them in the proper order to conclude that they are connected properly. Do you think these replacement parts may be causing me idle problems? I saw in another post from Methodical that people were saying to check the IAT. I dont know how comfortable I am doing that since I dont have a feeler gauge, and its 6 degrees in my garage right now. (I seriously have a thermometer out there!) Should I throw the old cap, rotor and coil on individually to see if anything corrects the problem, or do yall suggest trying something else? I suppose I could pull the throttle body and bring it in the house to try adjusting the IAT... I already cleaned the MAF, just to avoid anyone wondering about that. One more thing, my CEL comes on and off after the car warms up, but mostly when Im cruising at lower rpms, say under 2,000... None of the parts stores have OBD 1 diagnostic tools, their OBD II scanners wont read on my car, and I dont have an extra $75-90 for a diagnosis at a shop... Any opinions are greatly appreciated.
 
Nick, the place to start is with that code. If you have a paperclip and a few minutes, you can do it yourself.
If umcomfy with that, invest 30 bucks in a LCD-screen reader from CSK, some wallymarts, etc.

I'd just go back to the stock coil if this static bothers you. It's not uncommon.
 
I guess I didnt realize you could get a scan tool for that cheap. I always saw them for $200-300... The static doesnt bother me, just wondered if it was the start to a bigger problem such as a bad engine ground or something. I will probably look for a cheap reader, cause I dont know how the paperclip method works without doing some research. Kinda sounds sketchy, but what do I know? Thanks again for the opinion Hissin, youre the man
 
On the coil there is supposed to be a capaciter for that specific reason. If it is not there get a new one and put it there if it is replace it anyway. I use the blaster coil and have no radio issues but thats because i have the cap. there which absorbs the electromagnetic field caused by the High voltage coil. If your getting that speaker wine, thats actually good i guess because that means the coil actually works, lol. (As far as stepping up the voltage.)
 
So the dudes at the parts store said we have an OBD I computer that uses an OBD II connector. I cant find an OBD I reader on the internet, including on CSK website, for under $140. Do we really have OBD I? That would explain why their OBD II reader kept saying "error", lol.
 
Also the IAT has nothing to do with idle its Intake Air Temperature sensor. Thats in the intake tube. What i believe they are trying to tell you is adjust your idle. Or check your IAC. Idle Air Control motor, you probably just need to take it out and clean it with some electrical parts cleaner. Or do what i do and use throttle body cleaner. It will clean your IAC, throttle body, and some of the upper/lower intake deposits. I love using that stuff on cars, Throttle body cleaner and combustion chamber cleaner from wynns.
 
So the dudes at the parts store said we have an OBD I computer that uses an OBD II connector. I cant find an OBD I reader on the internet, including on CSK website, for under $140. Do we really have OBD I? That would explain why their OBD II reader kept saying "error", lol.

Yes our cars are OBD I that connector next to the kick panel on the drivers side is useless thats for the V6 models because they used OBD II. Our diagnostic connector is in the engine bay on the left by the strut tower and the firewall
 
Yeah, my bad, I meant IAC. My mind is all over the place right now. Too many searches and initials! I tried throttle body cleaner already, and then noticed the sticker that said not to spray throttle body cleaner directly in due to the finish of the throttle blade...
 
Yes our cars are OBD I that connector next to the kick panel on the drivers side is useless thats for the V6 models because they used OBD II. Our diagnostic connector is in the engine bay on the left by the strut tower and the firewall

Thanks man, thats the answer I was looking for. :nice: I would have bought the dang OBD II adapter cable for the OBD I reader if you wouldnt have said that. Searches on the internet are almost pointless now, theres way too much info, and every site says a different thing. This is why I hate computers, they are too complicated for me...
 
Yeah, my bad, I meant IAC. My mind is all over the place right now. Too many searches and initials! I tried throttle body cleaner already, and then noticed the sticker that said not to spray throttle body cleaner directly in due to the finish of the throttle blade...

Their are certain types you have to be carefull with. Wynns which is OEM approved and EPA certified works great. I use it all the time and on all my friends mustangs. Its what we use here at the dealer on customer cars, and is even safe to use with drive by wire throttle bodies. Take the IAC out and clean it with electric parts cleaner. that seems to work with some of the guys here.
 
Toluene can remove teflon inside the TB. That's why there's the warning. Though I'm careful, I'd bet some moron has already douched the TB with raw carb cleaner (a lot of dealers even do this).

Nice work on the reader (FWIW, the cheap ones that pull codes are readers. Scanners can view live engine parameters and such. Those are the pricier units).
The OBD-II to I adapters are useful for vehicles like ~95 Camaros, which had an OBD-II ALDL but were still OBD-I.

When GTA said the EEC connector is on the left, he means the passenger side (the other left. Instead of the drivers seat, his perspective was looking rearward from the front bumper). Foxes have it on the drivers side.

The ground strap and underhood insulation are also used for radio noise (the capacitor info above is right-on).
Mach 460's have a ground in the driver kick that goes bad and leads to noise as well.

Be careful cleaning the IAC. I only do it as a last option because the act of cleaning them can break them.

Good luck.
 
Toluene can remove teflon inside the TB. That's why there's the warning. Though I'm careful, I'd bet some moron has already douched the TB with raw carb cleaner (a lot of dealers even do this).

Nice work on the reader (FWIW, the cheap ones that pull codes are readers. Scanners can view live engine parameters and such. Those are the pricier units).
The OBD-II to I adapters are useful for vehicles like ~95 Camaros, which had an OBD-II ALDL but were still OBD-I.

When GTA said the EEC connector is on the left, he means the passenger side (the other left. Instead of the drivers seat, his perspective was looking rearward from the front bumper). Foxes have it on the drivers side.

The ground strap and underhood insulation are also used for radio noise (the capacitor info above is right-on).
Mach 460's have a ground in the driver kick that goes bad and leads to noise as well.

Be careful cleaning the IAC. I only do it as a last option because the act of cleaning them can break them.

Good luck.

Carb cleaner is just that, carb cleaner. I use throttle body cleaner that is made for fuel injected throttle bodies that does not damage the coating and lubricates the blade, and even helps the IAC is sprayed into its port. And yes hissin you are right I said left because he would have been looking at it from the front of the car and most people who are somewhat new to cars dont realize that no matter what you refer to sides as if you where looking at it from the rear. I work for a chrylser dealer and when we do fuel injection services we have to use the special either mopar cleaner or wynns because the electronic throttle controls we use are sensitive and those are the only things that wont strip them. However we do have "morons" here who have bought carb cleaner and even used brake cleaner to clean the throttle body. I just try to avoid those idiots:nonono: Hope our info can help you at all 95blue
 
Yeah, yall have helped. I know now where my OBD I (not OBD II) connector is, and I know that wynns air intake cleaner is safe, but I cant find where to buy it! All I can find are websites talking about it for dealers or shops... Do they have it at any parts stores? Also, I found an OBD I reader, but the cable for it to hook up to our cars cost just as much as the reader! Ill get it figured out, but I thank yall for pointing me in the right direction!
 
Also, I found an OBD I reader, but the cable for it to hook up to our cars cost just as much as the reader! Ill get it figured out, but I thank yall for pointing me in the right direction!


The cable is unnecessary. It allows you to sit in the car while twiddling with the reader (nice if you are going to activate the BOO, OD, etc). It's arguably nicer that way but I like being under the hood while solenoids cycle anyhow.
 
The cable is unnecessary. It allows you to sit in the car while twiddling with the reader (nice if you are going to activate the BOO, OD, etc). It's arguably nicer that way but I like being under the hood while solenoids cycle anyhow.

Youre right, I read it closer and it said "extension cord." So I ordered a code reader for $48. That "extension cord" was another $42! :rlaugh:
 
Actually you might be able to pick it up at a dealership, I know here we sell them over the counter to any customer who would prefer do it themselves. Call around and see if you can find it. It comes as a pack with a bottle of throttle body cleaner, Combustion chamber cleaner, and fuel injector cleaner. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.