bleeding air out of cooling system

R

rowdie- stang

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Apr 20, 2003

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augusta ga

Aug 23, 2005

#1

• Aug 23, 2005

• #1

Could someone tell me how to bleed the air out of the cooling system

 

G

gt90stang

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Dec 7, 2002

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Aug 23, 2005

#2

• Aug 23, 2005

• #2

I put my jack under the driver side A arm and jack it up as high as possible. Then mess with the upper radiator hose a few times to help get the air out while filling the radiator. Then cap it and fill the overflow reservoir half full and you should be good to go. Then check the level in the overflow tank daily for several days and then weekly for several weeks. After doing this mine has been fine after four or so heat cycles.

Good Luck, Don

 

R

rowdie- stang

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Apr 20, 2003

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augusta ga

Aug 23, 2005

#3

• Aug 23, 2005

• #3

thanks I will do that tomorrow

 

86T-Top

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Jun 29, 2001

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Dublin, PA

Aug 23, 2005

#4

• Aug 23, 2005

• #4

Fill the radiator up, start the car with the rad cap off and the heater on. Let the car idle, once the thermostat opens you will see the coolant bubbling, this is the air excaping. Also the coolant will flow out of the filler neck when a big air pocket excapes, this is normal. Once the bubbling has finished top off the radiator and overflow can, put the radiator cap on and you are done.

Mario

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 24, 2005

#5

• Aug 24, 2005

• #5

I combine Don's and Mario's techniques. I get the front driver-side high like Don, but I run it with no cap like Mario does (all at once). I let it idle like this till the stat opens and then for a bit more. If you do it this way, DO be very CAREFUL of hot coolant 'jumping' out of the radiator filler neck.

Good luck.

 

jaymac

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Feb 18, 2004

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Northern Mass

Aug 24, 2005

#6

• Aug 24, 2005

• #6

woo-hooo!!!! 12,006 posts for JT!!
On the subject, though, i will have to try these beurping techniques today. After a head gaasket swap over the weekend, temp and been hanging around 190*, but hung around 180* before. this morinign on the way to work, going down and around a right hand curve, the gauge went from 170* to 210*, then as I got out of the cure and was driving flat and straight again, it fell right back down to 180*, all in a matter of 4 seconds... Perhaps there's still air in the system...

 

jaymac

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Feb 18, 2004

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Northern Mass

Aug 25, 2005

#7

• Aug 25, 2005

• #7

funny... I burped and filled the system yesterday (jacked under the A arm), and this morning down down the same swooping curve, the temp did the same EXACT thing; goes from 175* to 210*, then back down to 180*, all in 4 seconds...

 

T

TheUser

Active Member

Jul 25, 2003

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Springfield, MO

Aug 25, 2005

#8

• Aug 25, 2005

• #8

jaymac said:

then back down to 180*

Click to expand...

this is the most important part to me. If it went up and didn't go back down, you'd most likely have issues, but since it goes back down, maybe it's the way the coolant sloshes around or something while approaching that curve.

I've had my autometers jump to 230ish and back down several times; gives me a stomach ache and everything. Usually, it will go back down, but definately not within 4 seconds.

 

jaymac

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Feb 18, 2004

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Aug 25, 2005

#9

• Aug 25, 2005

• #9

maybe 7 sec., but yeah, you get the point. As soon as I'm back on a straightaway, back to normal.
But I swear, i spend more time looking at that gauge than at the road

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 25, 2005

#10

• Aug 25, 2005

• #10

I agree all the way with James. Something is likely just funked with the guage reading.
There really should be no sloshing per se - the system is under 16 PSI. Now the lower radiator hose can collapse, but I dont think you can do a 30*F temp increase and then decrease in under 10 seconds.

I would just go over all the wiring one more time to ensure no wires are crimped/crushed, etc.

Good luck J.

 

txstang84

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May 21, 2005

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Tuscola, tx

Aug 26, 2005

#11

• Aug 26, 2005

• #11

HISSIN50 said:

I agree all the way with James. Something is likely just funked with the guage reading.
There really should be no sloshing per se - the system is under 16 PSI. Now the lower radiator hose can collapse, but I dont think you can do a 30*F temp increase and then decrease in under 10 seconds.

I would just go over all the wiring one more time to ensure no wires are crimped/crushed, etc.

Good luck J.

Click to expand...

that much of a change that quickly would tell me you might have the temp sender wire grounding against the engine somewhere, like right by the vavle cover...

 

jaymac

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Feb 18, 2004

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Aug 26, 2005

#12

• Aug 26, 2005

• #12

I'll give it a once or twice-over today and report back....

 

ram360

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Oct 19, 2002

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Pennsylvania

Aug 26, 2005

#13

• Aug 26, 2005

• #13

I also usually just run mine w/ the rad cap off until the t-stat opens.

 

C

camptroll

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Jun 28, 2015

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Jun 29, 2015

#14

• Jun 29, 2015

• #14

i did all of this but I'm still heating up. is it possible to have air way in the system where it can't get out.

 

jrichker

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Jun 29, 2015

#15

• Jun 29, 2015

• #15

camptroll said:

i did all of this but I'm still heating up. is it possible to have air way in the system where it can't get out.

Click to expand...

Not unless you have a 6 cylinder Pontiac Fiero...

 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician

Aug 27, 2012

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In the garage

Jun 29, 2015

#16

• Jun 29, 2015

• #16

Holy thread bump. 10 year old thread back from the dead.

Google lisle radiator funnel. Best $30 you'll ever spend. No more jacking up the car or filling and refilling. Once and you'e done- like Al Bundy.