The elbow pipe on the intake through which hot coolant gets to the heater is the highest point in the system. I have seen 4 or 5 different thermostats, and none of them had a bleeding orifice. These features cause air is hard to get off the system. Is there any clean way to bleed all of it?
The elbow pipe on the intake through which hot coolant gets to the heater is the highest point in the system. I have seen 4 or 5 different thermostats, and none of them had a bleeding orifice. These features cause air is hard to get off the system. Is there any clean way to bleed all of it?
The process I have use with success and starting with a dry engine, I leave the heater hose off of the connection in the manifold, and leave the temp sender out. Then, I add coolant to the rad and to the block through the temp sender hole. Once filled, I re-install the hose and the sender. Turn the interior heater controls to max on. Insure the coolant over flow is full. (yes, use a coolant overflow system). Fire it up check for leaks. Let it reach normal operating temps. Let it cool. Re-check the coolant over flow, should be less coolant. I remove the rad cap. If optimal, the coolant should be at the neck. If not re-cycle the heating/cooling. If all is working properly, your rad level should be at the filler neck.
Happy Trails!
I changed my thermostat about a month ago and it had the pre-drilled hole.
I also have a flush kit installed (it's a driver) and I leave the cap off while filling the radiator. This seems to get a lot, but not all, of the air out.