Blew A Darn Head Gasket Already!

But if my info is right, the C&L flows a little over 1100cfm to the pro m's 1550, but the 65mm tb flows way less, so, if the formula on Wallace race calculator is correct: a 306 at 6200 rpm at 90% VE would only pull around 500 cfm.

So I guess I'm asking, is the power increase in the electronics?

They just have issues with turbulence..depending on your intake setup. Sometimes if you clock the Maf 90degrees it will read differently. Which will throw off your computer. There is a table in the computer called a Maf transfer. The Maf reads in volts0-5, the higher the voltage the more air that is going through the Maf. When you have any turbulence the readings can get skewed. So people will clock the Maf until it reads more correctly.. You shouldn't have to do this.. I have never heard of this happening to any other brands of maf's.. The stock Maf has a screen in it to stop the turbulence.

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So if it's running fine, I shouldn't clock it. I'm sure this is a dumb Q, but I've never heard that about C&L, admittedly I've not talked to ppl with experience with them until now. Thanks

[QUOTETheir newer style meters are a bit different. They've smoothed out the housings, dumped the silly replaceable sample tubes and have spent more time making sure that the housing and sample element housings are a correct match. They don't seem to have all the same problems that the older offerings did and though I haven't played with one yet, I hear good things about their housings that use the new slot style meter elements.

Not sure what you mean about electronics being better OEM vs. Pro-M. Pro-M's electronics are the best in the business. Theirs is specifically designed to offer peak resolution down low and repeatable and consistent results across the entire range. They make them that way intentionally! Any time you take an OEM element and stuff it into a larger housing, you loose metering resolution in the lower CFM ranges. People who buy a Pro-M want it all. They want precise metering down low --AND-- the abilty to meter huge amounts of air with pin-point accuracy and consistent, repeatable results. Their electronics do just that and have as good a quality as anything you'd find mass produced. Something like a Pro-M is the NEXT step... not a step backwards.][/QUOTE] (did I quote wrong? told ya I'm new lol)

I'm 99% sure I have the new style, matched to 24's of course.
Again, I didn't realize the air meter could be holding me back as much as you guys are saying.
If I keep the chip in it, will the new meter throw off the tune??
How much power do you guys think it'll get me? in other words, is the $ of the pro m worth the gain?. I don't wanna spend $300 for 4-5 hp ya know?
thanks guys

Ok, it sounds like I'm going to pull the chip, tune the motor best I can, 14* @ 49psi FP, to start? It's been a while since I messed with it because of the chip, which like I said before sure made it more driveable. If I have too I'll see about gettin chip reburned , so not as lean! I still don't know why he tuned so lean, but I know he was trying to " tune it tight"

Ok, I'm a bigger idiot than I originally thought!!

The bad A/F curve was on the baseline pull, the chip has A/F curve right on 13:1 through the whole rpm range, so it's still tuned pretty tight at 13:1 huh? I'll try to upload my dyno sheet but I'm pretty much computer illerterate as well.

So I guess I'm saving some $ for a pro m 77 and to have chip reburned for motor, and go ahead and put nitrous tune on it too, I'm staying at about 150 though since I've only got the one fogger. I'm not really trying to have a race car. My goal was always a mid 11 sec street car. I've had the car since I was 17, got it new. Now I'm 41 this sat., so needless to say, I LOVE MY CAR!! I had the stock motor with all bolt ons going low 8,s in 1/8th. Again had some grim lens for awhile and haven't been to strip in a while. I want a 7.50