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Blew two alternators, what's the problem????

  • Thread starter Thread starter GToddyT5
  • Start date Start date Jul 12, 2006
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Danman765432

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Jul 7, 2007
#41
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #41
im guessing a loose connection?
 

GToddyT5

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Jul 7, 2007
#42
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #42
Yes, I had a wiring issue in the trunk that was killing the alternators.
 
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Danman765432

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Jul 7, 2007
#43
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #43
what connection was it exactly because I wonder if I have a similar problem that is causing me to go through them decently quick
 

KBCobra95

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Jul 8, 2007
#44
  • Jul 8, 2007
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Do you have a trunk mount battery or something? Because after you said this, I just remembered that just had my tail lights repainted and wonder if something is going on now.

GToddyT5 said:
Yes, I had a wiring issue in the trunk that was killing the alternators.
Click to expand...
 

GToddyT5

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#45
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #45
It was the wire to my aftermarket amp that powered my subs.
 

KBCobra95

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#46
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #46
Ok, so maybe I have a short somewhere.... the search begins
 

KBCobra95

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#47
  • Jul 8, 2007
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Do i even need the fusible link? What is its purpose? Looks to me like it just splits the larger wire into two smaller ones? I just bought a 4 gauge wire and was just going to replace the whole output wire in itself and leave the fusible link off. Good or bad idea?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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Jul 8, 2007
#48
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #48
KBCobra95 said:
Do i even need the fusible link? What is its purpose? Looks to me like it just splits the larger wire into two smaller ones? I just bought a 4 gauge wire and was just going to replace the whole output wire in itself and leave the fusible link off. Good or bad idea?
Click to expand...

Bad idea. Fuse the new cable. EDIT: I posted with a little bit more info on the corral thread a minute ago.
 

Pokageek

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Jun 10, 2005
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Jul 8, 2007
#49
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #49
GToddyT5, thanks for posting back man. Your knowledge could enefit a lot of people..and save us some $$$$.
 

KBCobra95

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#50
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #50
Gotcha, well my stock cable looks fine then. While in there, I am going to add another ground wire.
 

KBCobra95

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#51
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #51
Well, I just installed the new powermaster alternator, checked all the wires for corrosion/ breaks/ burns, checked all my connections, and the thing still will not charge. I checked the voltage at the battery and the alternator both and they were the same thing. The gauge in the car is at the N is normal and stays the same or if anything goes down...........I'm burning my car down.
 

KBCobra95

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#52
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #52
Also, I forgot to mention that I never get a battery light? If that matters.
 
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fordtech28

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May 12, 2006
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Jul 9, 2007
#53
  • Jul 9, 2007
  • #53
Start checking fuses under the hood and under the dash I had a friend that had a very similiar problem with his mustang it was coming from the ignition switch these are notorious for causing all kinds of problems including charging problems the contacts get loose and some connections to power related stuff was flaky
 

KBCobra95

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#54
  • Jul 9, 2007
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Thanks! BTW, I forgot these cars don't have the battery light. I was thinking of my truck. lol
 
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Danman765432

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#55
  • Jul 9, 2007
  • #55
I have a battery light
 
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fordtech28

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#56
  • Jul 9, 2007
  • #56
all mustangs have the battery light if its doesnt light theres a problem the actual light itself is part of the charging circuit as an indicator and if the lights out it affects the charging system for some reason I found this the hard way
 

KBCobra95

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Jul 9, 2007
#57
  • Jul 9, 2007
  • #57
nevermind, I see it now...I'm an idiot
 

KBCobra95

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Jul 9, 2007
#58
  • Jul 9, 2007
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Ok I went out and checked again. In the run position the battery light does NOT come on. I'm getting closer. Help me fellas
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
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Jul 9, 2007
#59
  • Jul 9, 2007
  • #59
KBCobra95 said:
Ok I went out and checked again. In the run position the battery light does NOT come on. I'm getting closer. Help me fellas
Click to expand...




If the wiring to it broke (chafed, got cut, otherwise came apart), that would do it.

The purpose of the 500 ohm resistor (which is run in parallel to the battery light) is so that if the battery light burns out, the resistor itself will function and allow the alt to turn on (a light bulb is also a resistor of sorts).

Anyhow, if the I circuit isnt working, there's a chance the wiring has an open (is cut). If you indeed have a cold I terminal circuit, I would start tracing it. First check real quick at the alternator regulator since those wires get crispy.
If that's ok, I'd head back to the interior and check at the cluster. If you have power reaching the cluster, check it after the bulb and trace forward. If you do not, work backwards toward the ignition switch till you find out why there's no power feed.

As an aside, if you get in a real pinch (though I hate to say it), you can rewire this circuit. You'd end up running a new wire and installing a resistor. If you dont care about the idiot light, this can all be done under the hood if it's simpler. I hate fixes like that - I like to fix things correctly. But it is an option if needed.

Good luck.
 

KBCobra95

New Member
Aug 28, 2005
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Jul 9, 2007
#60
  • Jul 9, 2007
  • #60
Also, I went and swapped my battery in my wife's bullit and on her gauge it shows really well and fully charged. On mine, it shows right on the "N" in normal. really low.
 
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