Block is cracked, questions

[281pony]

my plague continues. i now have caught the flu after my car blew up again and havent gotten off my bed basically since. i went out tonight to do a little work on it as long as i could stand with a 103 fever

i pulled my intake, some stuff off the front of the motor, one valve cover and one head. in the process threw up 11 times out in the garage, but its progress right?

my block is cracked, it is visible without any cleaning or any spectacular lighting, so it is pretty severe i imagine. what would cause something this severe? i must have looked over it during assembly since the car was not put under any stress, or didnt get that hot. hottest it got was on the first head gasket and it reached almost 195/200 degree's on my autometer. second one got to 185. never saw more then 2100 rpm's in the whole 14 miles i got. just wondering if i delt with a complete prick that sold this or there is actually something logical to cause such a big crack?

also i am now getting a stroker shortblock to replace this. it will be a 331 scat stroker. i made another post but got no replies. is that a pretty decent kit?

331, afr 165 or should i go 185 heads? ported performer rpm intake, 70mm tb, 274hr cam or similar, 80mm maf, 24s, bbk equal length headers, o/r h, ect. seem like a decent combo?

good news from this is, im getting afr heads and a stroker, and tonight i got most of my "stripped" with a star40 rocker bolts out. thanks for the input

 

[Rick 91GT]

If it wasn't turned high rpm, detonated to hell and back I would say the crack was there when you got it...maybe not all of the way through but cracked pretty severe.

Sucks....

I just finished a customers 331, 9:1, AFR 185's upgraded springs/seals, 1.6 rockers, FTI cam, RNH Performance ported Typhoon intake, 70mm TB, 75MM MAF, BBK shorties, 2.5" off road and cat back, AOD car and it flies! Very sweet combo..

Go 185's!

Just for you buddy

 

[281pony]

you passed me by one barf,

it did not detonate, never spun at high rpm's, so it must have occured out of my hands. it was sent freight, but it just had a pallet under it, and one on the top with plastic wrapped around. i could see how it may have gotten damaged if something hit it, but the way its cracked i dont really think its possible.

so you think 185's are my best bet? the guy i talked to earlier today thought 165's would be best for me since it is a street car, and i dont rev it up over 5800 rpm's. for the street and the best lowend he suggested them, but if you think 185's are ok it works either way for me to get them. also do you think scat is a pretty decent stroker kit?

thanks for the comforting faces too.

 

[TT91]

Listen to Rick and myself, Go with the 185s. Scat makes top notch pieces. Better then Dss and Chp. What cam or do you not know of yet? sorry about your block....does it look anything like this?
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/11210/fordcarnage6.jpg

 

[281pony]

thats good to know its a decent kit. is that your work on the block?

mines more of a hairline crack then a 2 piece block definately noticable though.

im leaning towards the 185's now myself, only thing im looking at is the springs are only good to .550. any idea how much the spring upgrade costs? probably sending off the money for my sb, heads, and a cam tomorrow.

i have a 282hr in my 306 block now which was way too big, but i left it for the time being to save money. im thinking maybe the 274hr. pretty much something decent off the shelf that i can get through this guy in 2-3 days with a nice idle and street performance.

any suggestions? custom will cost me another $200 which isint really there or else i would do that. plus i dont have all the time in the world anymore.

 

[TT91]

No thats not my handy work, I was fortunate enough to eep my stocker in one piece. A Spring upgrade should cost the price of springs, and whatever labor is. Im not familar with the price of new springs, but they're not too expensive. Im also not familar wtih the 282hr or 274 hr cams? your talking about...

 

[281pony]

they are off the shelf comp cams. ill get the specs on the two. do you have any suggestions your familiar with?

 

[281pony]

-274hr-
Part Number 35-518-8
Engine 1969-1995 Ford
351ci,
Windsor,
8cyl.
Grind Number FW XE274HR-12
Description

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.555 0.565
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 274 282

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 29 65
Exhaust 77 25

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 108 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 224 232
Lobe Lift 0.348 0.354
Lobe Separation 112

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Recommended Valve Springs 986-16


-282hr-
Part Number 35-522-8
Engine 1969-1995 Ford
351ci,
Windsor,
8cyl.
Grind Number FW XE282HR-12
Description

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.565 0.574
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 282 290

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 29 73
Exhaust 77 33

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 108 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 232 240
Lobe Lift 0.354 0.36
Lobe Separation 112

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Recommended Valve Springs 986-16

 

[TT91]

Im not a cam guru, I let that part of the motor be handled by the professionals, there are simply too many factors in building a motor to just throw in a off the shelf cam. check out www.cammotion.com for custom cams.

I have an AFM b-451 cam in my motor now, and iv gota review the specs again, cuz i went from being blown to turbos, so a custom grind twin turbo cam is going to be differernt then a custom grind blower cam.

 

[281pony]

yeah, that cam (274hr) seems to be the popular one people run n/a with similar combo's to mine. it was also recommended to me by the guy selling the shortblock. thats what im going off of right now.

how long until your tt project is done?

rick, do you have any off the shelf suggestions for what im looking for? i know custom is the best and i might regret it later, but i can always install another. just dont have the time to wait, or the money to have one done right now. i want a nice loping/rough idle and good street performance.

 

[TT91]

The kit will be done in Jan, but it wont be done and all wrapped up on the car until Feb/Mar time frame.

 

[DMAN302]

I been seeing and looking at your threads since the begining head gasket problem. I'm glad to see your not giving up...these cars can behave like spoiled women more often than not. Keep the faith, and good luck both with the flu and with the new mill...it WILL be worth it when it's done. Make sure you keep us updated.
Later,
Derek.

 

[281pony]

thanks, its definately been one hell of a streak.

ill be so happy when i can go out and start the car without spending another 20 hours afterwards. maybe not throwing up when i touch it too

 

[MusPuppis]

Awsome to see your still going.

"Troubles never singly come".. If theres anything more true than that I dont know what it is. I remember my first car.. 72 240 Fairlady Z. Right hand drive, the whole deal.. From the SECOND I got it to my house it was a fight. For over a year I dumped every dime of my money and every minute of my time into getting it going. I just gave up on it and I regret it to this day.

Anyway, Your new setup sounds nice man, keep us all updated on how your progressing.

 

[281pony]

bad thing is the car ran fine before. i took it from a running, but worn 5.0 to this. just a string of bad luck.

should be worth it in the end once its actually working.

just need an opinion on a cam if anyone has some feedback for a good ots cam.

 

[DMAN302]

I REALLY like the sound of mine at idle, and the 2000-6000 range is damn fine...comp XE270hr-12. Works well with the heads, both seem to come together at the same rpm and stay strong together right up to 6000.
BTW just so you know you're not alone with compounding problems though not to the same degree. Sunday I was installing my refinished pony wheels(NICE..REAL NICE) when I discovered my trac loc was shot, my wheel bearings are done, and my brake pads were split on the pass side...ain't it fun....oh yeah...my ball joints are tired as well.

 

[281pony]

so the 270 starts pulling at 2000 exactly?

ive only ridden in one other mustang with anything done. my cousin when he had his e-cam and some other stuff. i remember it kicked in good at about 2000 also.

id love to need a new trac-lock versus a whole damn engine right now.

 

[DMAN302]

Yeah it starts about 2000 but the combo really comes into its own at 3000-3500 that's when it gets really interesting. The best part was when we fired her up for the first time and all three of us were just giggles when we walked behind the car and listened to the idle...lopey loud and just nice, not reall choppy.

 

[281pony]

i had a pretty serious idle with my 282 clone cam.

224/230 duration, 110 lca. it was almost too loud though, so that might be perfect.

i saw it only lifts 512 too which would allow me to keep the stock afr springs. im assuming you have flat top pistons too with that cam? my 306 had some pretty big notches, but that cam lifted 576.

 

[cobradvm]

331, afr 165 or should i go 185 heads? ported performer rpm intake, 70mm tb, 274hr cam or similar, 80mm maf, 24s, bbk equal length headers, o/r h, ect. seem like a decent combo?

I would consider 30 pound injectors rather than 24s. Thats what I run on my 331. Also why not go 347 - I kinda wish I had done that but am happy with the 331 - goes like a raped ape.