Block Prep and Boring Cost?

Redryder95 · Jun 20, 2005

I am shopping for a 331 stroker kit and I am wondering if the quote I got, w/kit, was a respectable price quote. Here it is:
> 331 Stroker Kit ($2950)
- 4340 Steel Crank
- Eagle H-Beam Rods
- File Fit Moly Rings
- H-Series Race Bearings
- Custom Forged Pistons (Ross, JE, Probe ect.)
- Block Prep Deck Height
- Boring and Final Hone
I am shopping around for stroker kits; jegs.com,summit.com,dss.com and there are all types of kits. I am just trying to figure if the price for the block prep and boring cost and kit is respectable or is it too much. I can't do the work myself and am having to pay someone to do it.

Grn92LX · Jun 20, 2005

Like I told you in one of the other 50 threads you made, thats too much money. I already sent you a link to the guy building my 347 for cheaper than that. I'll be running better rods too and I have more cubes Why are you putting a forged crank in a stock block? Wasted money and its heavier.

www.rnhperformance.net

Redryder95 · Jun 20, 2005

Sorry Man. I just did a search and found out some stuff. Just trying to get an opinion from other people. I will come back with some more questions when I become an expert.

giddyup306 · Jun 20, 2005

Grn92LX said:
Like I told you in one of the other 50 threads you made, thats too much money. I already sent you a link to the guy building my 347 for cheaper than that. I'll be running better rods too and I have more cubes Why are you putting a forged crank in a stock block? Wasted money and its heavier.

www.rnhperformance.net

Yeah my Scat cast steel crank is good to 8000+ RPM and 850hp. Which I will hopefully be making more power than that after some tweaking and fine tuning. Plus in a STOCK block....

$uperstang · Jun 20, 2005

Way Too much money. I just purchased a 331 Eagle 4340 forged stroker kit for $899, Forged crank, Eagle H beam rods, SRP forged pistons, rings and all! I had the kit externally balanced for $200 and then had my block bored .030 over and "0" decked for $650: Total $1,750 with main girdle support!

Redryder95 · Jun 20, 2005

Hey, thanks a bunch $uperstang. That is the kind of help I was looking for. I only drive her on weekends and NEVER take her to the track. I just want something to have fun with. Where did you get your kit?

Redryder95 · Jun 20, 2005

What would the weight difference between the steel and forged crank be? Is it really that much difference? Is the forged crank "tough" enough to operate for what I want my final outcome to be, 350rwhp and 375+rwtq.

$uperstang · Jun 20, 2005

Redryder95 said:
What would the weight difference between the steel and forged crank be? Is it really that much difference? Is the forged crank "tough" enough to operate for what I want my final outcome to be, 350rwhp and 375+rwtq.

I got lucky when Super Engine Builders out of Chicago were runing a special on their kits. They are at www.gofaststuff.com, Ask for Frank Eskra and see if he has ny more left. For the horsepower you want you don't need forged kit. steel crank is fine for your set up You would not have any problems as long as you have the kit balanced. I think they sell balanced kits already check out ther website and ask for Frank!

90Notch · Jun 20, 2005

Depends on your area, around here you'll be hard pressed to find someone respectable to prep a block for less than $750.

giddyup306 · Jun 20, 2005

Redryder95 said:
What would the weight difference between the steel and forged crank be? Is it really that much difference? Is the forged crank "tough" enough to operate for what I want my final outcome to be, 350rwhp and 375+rwtq.

Like I said earlier a cast Scat crank is rated at 800+ hp and high rpm. As a matter of fact 99% of all street cars don't require a forged crank. Just make sure you go through a lot of heat cycles before you take it to the track. Go ahead and waste your money on a forged crank. Dosen't bother me any.

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