Blower On Stock 302

[j0rd4n]

Mileage is quite low on the block and compression is 170 psi in all cylinders. Only Thing I have is. Gt40 intake I have yet to put on. And underdrive pullies yet To put on.

I wanna just slap a blower on low psi....

What blower should I get?

Right now I have a new 155 lph fuel pump and stock injectors which I asssume those will both
Need upgraded.


Give me your thoughts

 

[A5literMan]

Don't use the underdrive pulleys.

Vortech blower-8-10psi kit. Go with the self contained lubricating system.

Best way is to have a matching maf,inj,and at least a 255lph high pressure pump(match the maf and injectors to the power level you want to achieve and give yourself some room to grow-at least a 80mm maf-42#inj in most instances). Don't use the fmu/stock inj route. Stock fuel lines and rails are fine up to around 500rwhp. You never want to be short on the fuel system. If you go lean...blown head gaskets or worse. You'll probably want a dyno tune to dial it all in.

If you keep the tune conservative the longblock will be fine. If you're going to boost it fairly hard(8+psi) I'd recommend Arp head studs and good head gaskets.

 

[j0rd4n]

Don't use the underdrive pulleys.

Vortech blower-8-10psi kit. Go with the self contained lubricating system.

Best way is to have a matching maf,inj,and at least a 255lph high pressure pump(match the maf and injectors to the power level you want to achieve and give yourself some room to grow-at least a 80mm maf-42#inj in most instances). Don't use the fmu/stock inj route. Stock fuel lines and rails are fine up to around 500rwhp. You never want to be short on the fuel system. If you go lean...blown head gaskets or worse. You'll probably want a dyno tune to dial it all in.

If you keep the tune conservative the longblock will be fine. If you're going to boost it fairly hard(8+psi) I'd recommend Arp head studs and good head gaskets.

I only plan on going 6-7 psi until I upgrade the fuel system.
I was worried about that because I just installed a 155 pump before I had these plans. Stock injectors currently but shouldn't 24# or 36# suffice for this low of boost?

Main question tho. Do I need another new fuel pump for 6 -7 psi most

 

[Noobz347]

You should buy the injectors just one time.

You should not even consider running that fuel pump with an FMU. You need a high pressure pump.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

I only plan on going 6-7 psi until I upgrade the fuel system.
I was worried about that because I just installed a 155 pump before I had these plans. Stock injectors currently but shouldn't 24# or 36# suffice for this low of boost?

Main question tho. Do I need another new fuel pump for 6 -7 psi most

Do it one time. If you try to get by with small fuel pump and undersized injectors and pay for a low boost tune and then you decide you want to upgrade the fuel pump and injectors and a new calibrated MAF you'll also need to pay for another dyno tune. That's a lot of money you're throwing away.

I'm in the same boat as you. I have a completely stock engine and I'm adding boost to it. Install is underway as well as some other small maintenance items. I went a better route (IMO) and went with a Kenne Bell 2.1L Flowzilla super charger to go on my stock E7 headed engine.

 

[A5literMan]

I only plan on going 6-7 psi until I upgrade the fuel system.
I was worried about that because I just installed a 155 pump before I had these plans. Stock injectors currently but shouldn't 24# or 36# suffice for this low of boost?

Main question tho. Do I need another new fuel pump for 6 -7 psi most

155 won't keep up. Like others stated...buy injectors once(yes the 30's should keep up at low boost but you will want more in short order-everyone does) 42's are a good starting point. They will be oversized at a low boost level but able to grow if/when you want to turn up the power. The excess fuel will be returned to the tank when not running hard but will adequately feed it under boost. Buy a matching maf and get a tune for drivability-wot performance. I wouldn't be running any blown motor without knowing what the afr is(you can run slightly rich many times but lean only once).

 

[TOOLOW91]

42s . I'd rather have extra injector then not enough .

Aeromotive 340lph pump

Adjustable fuel pressure reg .

@84Ttop can get you the best deal around if you're looking to buy a new blower kit . He is a top teir vortech dealer .

I love the blower stuff . Any other questions just ask

 

[TOOLOW91]

Oh and don't forget a pro m or pmas mass air meter . Calibrated for your injectors makes that first start up much easier .

You'll also need a BTM Box or some way to pull timing under boost .

Your tuner could do this with the chip too

 

[j0rd4n]

so i understand that i need atleast 36# injectors as well and a 255lph fuel pump, larger maf and throttle body, but how hard is to get it tuned after that? is that all i need. someone said to get a FMU , others say dont, this is all new to me and id rather not blow up my engine haha

 

[Noobz347]

Nobody should be recommending an FMU. FMU's are a temporary measure used to install base kits while funds are gathered to do it correctly.

 

[Nutty 5.o]

I've been out of the blower scene on these cars for a while, but totally agree with everyone here. Avoid FMU and go with 255 or something larger. 42's should take you where you need to unless there's better options. Skip the underdrives and the intake will be good to have.

Start researching now for reputable tuners in your area. I'd talk to them first to see what they want for tuning so you don't get there the day of the dyno appt. and find out he won't tune unless you have X, Y or Z. Once you have the right pump, injectors, (And meter and TB would be worthwhile now), the chip burnt by the tuner on the dyno should give you all the engine control you need. Just be honest with them and yourself on what tune you get: if you will never put race gas in, have a tune for whatever the highest octane you can get locally.

 

[TOOLOW91]

so i understand that i need atleast 36# injectors as well and a 255lph fuel pump, larger maf and throttle body, but how hard is to get it tuned after that? is that all i need. someone said to get a FMU , others say dont, this is all new to me and id rather not blow up my engine haha

Again I'd run a 340lph aeromotive . A little extra insurance . Skip the FMu .

Find a reputable tuner in your area or within traveling distance that can burn you a chip .

 

[j0rd4n]

ok ill go talk to some tuners and see what they say. there is a foxbody specialist by me but he always talks crap on boosted cars and they cant be reliable so im gonna go somewhere else. i already installed the pullies, minus the alternator pully. whats the reason for not running these

 

[Noobz347]

Again I'd run a 340lph aeromotive . A little extra insurance . Skip the FMu .

Find a reputable tuner in your area or within traveling distance that can burn you a chip .

In my humble opinion, I think that this is overkill and might serve to heat soak fuel. A 255L high pressure should be more than adequate but I also install voltage regulators (boost-a-pump) to keep them saturated and steady.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

ok ill go talk to some tuners and see what they say. there is a foxbody specialist by me but he always talks crap on boosted cars and they cant be reliable so im gonna go somewhere else. i already installed the pullies, minus the alternator pully. whats the reason for not running these

The pullies will "under drive" your accessories meaning they will spin your alternator, power steering, AC, and water pump at less rpms. You do not want less cooling and less voltage available to you while in low rpms and idling, right? This is bad especially if you have a stock 65amp alternator.

As far as super chargers being reliable goes that's difficult to explain. Some people go for max HP max boost blower setups and that's not reliable. Some people don't know what they're doing and have issues. Lots of people run in to head gaskets issues. IMO, don't get greedy with boost and get a safe tune and you'll have a better chance with reliability. I think super charging a stock engine should be the most reliable setup so long as you keep the boost down. Too high of boost and bye-bye head gaskets. Most likely I'm going to pop my gaskets this summer but I am well aware of what I'm getting myself in to.

 

[j0rd4n]

The pullies will "under drive" your accessories meaning they will spin your alternator, power steering, AC, and water pump at less rpms. You do not want less cooling and less voltage available to you while in low rpms and idling, right? This is bad especially if you have a stock 65amp alternator.

As far as super chargers being reliable goes that's difficult to explain. Some people go for max HP max boost blower setups and that's not reliable. Some people don't know what they're doing and have issues. Lots of people run in to head gaskets issues. IMO, don't get greedy with boost and get a safe tune and you'll have a better chance with reliability. I think super charging a stock engine should be the most reliable setup so long as you keep the boost down. Too high of boost and bye-bye head gaskets. Most likely I'm going to pop my gaskets this summer but I am well aware of what I'm getting myself in to.

I have no underdrive pulley for the alt. Also have a badass electric fan and controller so I think the pullies are fine

 

[JD1964]

These guys are giving good advice. I know this from my own experiences.

I run 10psi and I'm using 30lb injectors with calibrated MAF and chip tune (no FMU). My 30's are maxed out at WOT and I even had to turn up the fuel pressure to get the AF mixture just right. Stock pressure is 39psi and I have mine bumped to 46. So, I should have went with larger injectors but I'm dialed in pretty good so I'm holding as is. I do have 340lph pump.

My crank pulley is a Vortech piece that has an underdrive accessory drive pulley built in. I have a 3G alt 130amp. You really only have issues with UD pulley if you sit in traffic and have to idle for extended periods. You can see the voltmeter drop when idling 750-800. What you dont see is how much slower the water is circulating so that can cause overheating issues. I have a monster sized radiator and a strong fan so I get away with it. Although, I had been holding the idle a little higher with my foot when in extended idle situations. I noticed that at 900-1000 rpm the voltmeter had no drop and cooling was more consistent.

I had a stalling issue I could not track down. In frustration I did the frowned upon action of turing up the throttle stop to increase idle speed. In my case it solved all of my issues, I've gotten no codes and its running great. No more stalling and the idle is about 900-950 which keeps the voltage up and the water moving better. After turning up the throttle stop, I re-adjusted the TPS voltage. So far I'm getting away with these no no's, but there's no promise that others will have my good luck in these details.

Another thing, during the time my car was NA, I had no head gasket issues. After the boost was added, I had head gasket issues. I finally got it fixed but it took removing the engine, tearing it down to have the block and heads milled, reassembled with ARP stud kit and Cometic head gaskets. Nice thing about Cometics is the different thicknesses they are available in. In my case I ordered thicker by the same amount of material that was removed in the milling processes. Everything when together perfectly with stock length pushrods and no need to shim the pedestals.

It's coming together for me finally. The car runs fantastic and I absolutely love driving it! I plan to enjoy it through the summer while continuing the tweaking. Im thinking dyno pulls in the fall to see what its putting to the pavement.

PS: If you buy the kit from Vortech it comes with a drive belt that is sized for stock pulleys. If you're running other than stock size pulleys, you'll have to hang that belt on the wall and get a shorter one.

 

[TOOLOW91]

In my humble opinion, I think that this is overkill and might serve to heat soak fuel. A 255L high pressure should be more than adequate but I also install voltage regulators (boost-a-pump) to keep them saturated and steady.

This is to alieviate having to run the boost a pump . I don't like relying on two pumps . I never had an issue with the 340 , drove 120 miles one way in 96 degree weather never skipped a beat.

 

[TOOLOW91]

You want a stock water pump pulley to keep he water pump spinning at stock speed . You also want the alt to spin at stock rpm so you don't have charging issues.

 

[Noobz347]

This is to alieviate having to run the boost a pump . I don't like relying on two pumps . I never had an issue with the 340 , drove 120 miles one way in 96 degree weather never skipped a beat.

A larger pump does not alleviate the need for a boost-a-pump any more than a larger fan alleviates the need for a fan controller.

A boost-a-pump is not a pump. It is a voltage controller. It has a rheostat that varies voltage going to the pump from about 12 to 17 volts. What it is good at doing is keeping voltage constant as it powers the fuel pump. If the electrical system gets a draw or a spike then fuel pump pressure and flow stay the same. It regulates vehicle power to the fuel pump and eliminates surges.

I've attached an article that may help explain a bit more: