Well, that can be tricky. I wetsand with a small rubber block for a repair like that. Go a little at a time and then wipe it down and squeege it off with the rubber block. You'll be able to see the the clear coming down. It'll haze and you'll be able to see the deeper scratches through it. As far as the thickness of the clear coat, it's usually about 2 mills on a factory paintjob if I remember correctly. Very thin. You could remove too much and do more damage. If you're not comfortable you may want to stop by a body shop and see if they can determine the depth of the scratches and maybe get a price on what they'd want to do it.
dont even wet sand it, just use some buffing compound and see how that turns out first. use the least aggressive methods first, then move to sanding it after all else fails.
with 2000 grit sandpaper, it would take you much more time than you are willing to put in before the paint will be too thin.
with 2000 grit sandpaper, it would take you much more time than you are willing to put in before the paint will be too thin.
Buffing is a waste is you aren't to the depth you need to be to remove the scratches. 2000 grit paper and a block sander will remove a more uniform and controllable amount of clear. Then it will only require minimum buffing. Whenever I buff any coating for the first time, it goes to 2000 grit paper block sanded first. Then it only require a mild abrasive compound to bring it back.
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