Paint and Body Body Surface Rust.. Need Help.

(This is my first ever post, so apologies if I mess this up)

This old girl has been owned since new by my Dad, and now I'm the second owner of her..
31 years of daily driven use and being in the southern sun has taken it's toll on the paint, and I honestly am NOT a body guy and don't wanna hurt this car by doing something stupid while trying to fix the mostly "Surface" rust issue, so figured it best to ask you guys.
I'm gonna be honest.. I've been restoring this car after it sat for 3 years because of a broken PIP sensor that I just flat out refused to replace with anything other than a Motorcraft part (I'm sure you guys know why it took me 3 years to find one, and even though I have it, I still had to super glue.. Yes, superglue the original PIP back together to get the car running but will install the new PIP sensor that's box has a date of 1998, soon)
Anyway, with that said I have a 91' GT that I can only bump start because the flywheel is chewed up from a shop of geniuses that my Dad had work on it at one point because he had no other choice at the time, along with a list of issues I've got to fix and a notebook of parts I need to buy with basically no money to do so..

I really wanna stop this rust and keep this survivor car intact, however I have very little money to do so, so please keep the low finances in mind when suggesting what to buy. I really can't afford a $40 can of 2 stage clear or nothing even though the car certainly needs clear coat work badly. Also had a Fuel hose by the tank slowly leaking that eat the paint up on the bottom, so any suggestions on that would help as well, I was thinking a soft wire wheel and rust convertor?
Any suggestions as to go how to go about patching this surface rust up without it being really ugly looking if possible.
Thank you guys for your time and any suggestions.
My Dad has had this car it's entire life and he hates seeing the condition it's in, and he just couldn't do anything about it for a long time, so I'm trying the best I can to get it both running and looking right to let him know the car is in good hands with me. When I got it running again he just lit up, and everything I've done since to improve the car makes him really happy, so I'm determined to keep that going with what little resources I have, and with parts being what they are for these now days that's proving to be a challenge for sure.

Thanks again guys.
-Dave

And I'm instantly reminded why I don't join forums and associate with other Fox Body people.
Appreciate the.. Help? But I think I would have done that if I could.

General karthief said:

that's not good advice, I would treat it with some Ospho http://ospho.com/ wipe it down with thinner then spray some etching primer on it, let dry, spray a coat of regular primer, scuff again, wipe with thinner again, make sure it's dry, spray a few coats of some cheap automotive paint close to the car color and let it ride. This will protect the surface for the time being. JMO.

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And that's the answer I was looking for..
That's pretty much what I was thinking, I'm just not aware of what products to use and how to go about doing it correctly.
Thank you.

Monkeybutt2000 said:

How not? Fella said he couldn't really afford a $40 can of clear

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At this time I'm also doing 2 other cars..
A 93' Vibrant Red Cobra #1682 that I bought in 2006. As well as a 92' LX that's being manual/V8 swapped.

I got no shame in saying the struggle is real, but I'm doing what I can to save these cars.

The Cobra is back home in Georgia, I don;t have many pics of it on this computer atm.
It came from Akins Ford in Winder, GA the same dealership as the 91' GT.
As you can see the Cobra had hood and cowl damage I'm slowing fixing.
I do not have any pics of the LX, however it's an old circuit car that's needs a lot.

I basically build Fox's for grip rather than drag or whatever else.
People say they handle badly, but a sub 3,000lb car (2,750 with minor weight reduction) with a 302, suspension work, chassis stiffen, and keeping the solid axle in check.. They make for one of the best sports cars Ford ever made IMO.

Monkeybutt2000 said:

Now that explains things a bit better. I meant no disrespect,you clearly know how much these cars cost to keep on the road. Your statement about not being able to afford $40 just took me aback. I think it's great you're keeping your Dad's car alive

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It's cool. Appreciate it.
I've had and sold Saleens and other fox's but the 91' GT was the first, and will always be the last for me.
This one is more than just a car to me =)

General karthief said:

The object is to protect the metal from futher corrosion, regular paint will not stick to bare metal, thus the etching primer gives the regular primer and paint something to adhere to.

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Alright, so I read up on what you were talking about and now I understand what you mean. I need the etching primer to adhere to the surface so that the primer itself has something to adhere to, and then use the paint. The surface rust has caused a kind of scoring in the metal like tiny cat scratches so i think between the etching primer and regular primer it should fill that in as well.
Thanks again.

Potomus Pete said:

Try polishing that car. It should buff right up shiny semi new

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With the clear peeling and the oxidation in the paint, polish used to help but it seems she really needs paint work.
I could have saved the paint at one point but all this rain and humidity we've had the last few years it's really eat the car up quick.