Boiling brake fluid

pretty much ya. what fluid are you using? also if you are running a Varga style rear caliper like the mustangs have from the factory you never NEVER use your e-brake after a hotlap session.

i used Valvoline Dot3/4 fluid, its cheap and has a high boiling point, never had fade. i flushed the fluid before and after a track day. if i had any signs of fade during a session, i would bleed out the calipers in the pit area. although i never had that problem. also consider getting cooling ducts. i had them on my car and they worked great.

Also don't use the traction control, it applies the brakes during wheelspin and will destroy the rear pads.
I'm a Hawk brake guy myself, it's funny that so many people worry about HP only to find the thing that screws them up the most is getting the car stopped.
my home track is Sebring, lots of stops (and bumps) there.

Autocross and track driving place completely different demands on brakes. For track driving you need some race oriented pads and cooling ducts. Without cooling ducts even high temp pads will wear quicker and heat the calipers causing fluid boil.

The setup I use on a budget is Cobra brakes all the way around, Motorcraft high performance fluid, 2 ½” hose connected to the fog light housings routed to the rotor centers (fog lights and splash shields removed), and Lomandi Kevlar metallic pads. I use this setup with V710 Kumhos but my engine is basically stock so I rarely get over 135 before stomping the brakes.

Of course it would be better to get REAL race pads and 3” ducts but if your on a budget like I am the above setup has worked for me.

I tried a imitation Cobra R front bumper with 3” hose at Sebring and the hoses kept coming off. I finally ripped the hoses off and ran without them. Caused a brand new set of pads to wear to the backing plates in 6 sessions. I won’t ever run without cooling ducts again. I had to buy all new rotors and calipers with that lesson.

Here is a link to some videos using the above mentioned setup.
http://www.youtube.com/user/sandyman099

you can get the rotors turned if they aren't too bad. i've found that just holding a steady brake can help warped roters. hard stops only make them worse.

Mystang is correct there is not much correlation between auto-x and open track. I've seen guys run small disc brakes and even drums because they're lighter (except for the hi zoot disc brakes) and there's always a cool down time between runs so they can get away with this.