Bought Sub and Amp for 99+ Stang, Need Mounting Ideas

mrbeaubo · Apr 13, 2005

I just bought a single 12" S12L7 Kicker Sub with a KX600.1 kicker amp. I am going to built a custom box and also have a nitrous bottle in the trunk.. I need ideas figuring out the best way to mount the sub and amp, move the nitrous bottle, and save as much space as possible. I want to build a vented box, and I can provide any specs if need be on the sub.

Pictures or ideas are WELCOME! PLEASE HELP!

VPStang · Apr 13, 2005

mrbeaubo said:
I just bought a single 12" S12L7 Kicker Sub with a KX600.1 kicker amp. I am going to built a custom box and also have a nitrous bottle in the trunk.. I need ideas figuring out the best way to mount the sub and amp, move the nitrous bottle, and save as much space as possible. I want to build a vented box, and I can provide any specs if need be on the sub.

Pictures or ideas are WELCOME! PLEASE HELP!

If you're worried about space, You need to go with sealed enclosure instead. In my opinion sealed is better anyways...

mrbeaubo · Apr 13, 2005

Any ideas will help me out, sealed or ported.

VPStang · Apr 13, 2005

mrbeaubo said:
Any ideas will help me out, sealed or ported.

well since your willing to go sealed---doing a fiberglass enclosure in your spare tire well is becoming popular--if u don't mind being without the spare...

where is you're nitrous bottle mounted?

If you're building the box yourself....just make it more long from side to side instead of box like...and keep it against the seatback....this should open up more trunk space for your bottle.....i've done this in a few installs just to save room....

mrbeaubo · Apr 13, 2005

Hmm, I've dealt with fiberglass A LOT with my 75 corvette, and I'd rather just build one out of wood If the recommended range for my sealed enclosure is from .88 to 2.0 cubic feet. What will it sound at .88 and at 2.0, or in the area inbetween?

mrbeaubo · Apr 13, 2005

VPStang said:
well since your willing to go sealed---doing a fiberglass enclosure in your spare tire well is becoming popular--if u don't mind being without the spare...

where is you're nitrous bottle mounted?

If you're building the box yourself....just make it more long from side to side instead of box like...and keep it against the seatback....this should open up more trunk space for your bottle.....i've done this in a few installs just to save room....

Didn't see rest of post, currently the nitrous bottle is mounted over the spare tire, but I'd really like to move it, but keep it facing the front of the car and angles up like its supposed to be. So moving the bottle is definitely open and wanted. Do you think it would be possible to build the edge closest to the seats with plexiglass or would that kill the sub's quality? So basically have it wide and not so long towards the back, with it rear firing, where should I place the amp in this setup?

mrbeaubo · Apr 13, 2005

DMDyne · Apr 13, 2005

The most "out of the way" place for an amp is on the underside of the rear deck between the rear speakers.

As for ported or sealed on the L7...I definatly suggest ported. I'm an installer at Circuit City and we won't install L7's in sealed boxes. They have a good tendency to blow in sealed boxes. The size of the L7 ported boxes are absolutely astounding. Personally, I wouldn't have the NoS bottle with the L7 in the same trunk. The vibrations will eventually loosten any and all fittings/nuts/bolts/screws that are holding the hoses to the bottle and the bottle to the trunk. If you do, indeed, want them both there, I would highly reccomend Lok-Tite.

Custom boxes can be a bit tedious to make and actually maintain. When I had my 98 Stang, I had clear fiberglass molded into the opening from the backseat to the trunk and made my 15" SPL's rear fireing with rear fireing ports. You can see the inside of the box from the inside of the car and you can add some internal neons to the box to make it a little easier on the eyes. If you really want the box to be viewable internally, make sure you do a good job on wireing, nothing is worse then people that don't know how to run wires. lol

mrbeaubo · Apr 13, 2005

Well the thing is, I was space to mount the bottle, but I won't leave it in while I'm not running it at the track or whatever, just need the room. I want to build a ported box but I don't know how I'm going to fit it!

DMDyne · Apr 14, 2005

Well, to save space, I would definatly mount the amp to the rear deck and push the NoS bottle as far to the side as you can. As for the custom box, maybe look through Crutchfield.com to get some ideas. There's millions of possibilities.

VPStang · Apr 14, 2005

DMDyne said:
The most "out of the way" place for an amp is on the underside of the rear deck between the rear speakers.

As for ported or sealed on the L7...I definatly suggest ported. I'm an installer at Circuit City and we won't install L7's in sealed boxes. They have a good tendency to blow in sealed boxes. The size of the L7 ported boxes are absolutely astounding. Personally, I wouldn't have the NoS bottle with the L7 in the same trunk. The vibrations will eventually loosten any and all fittings/nuts/bolts/screws that are holding the hoses to the bottle and the bottle to the trunk. If you do, indeed, want them both there, I would highly reccomend Lok-Tite.

Custom boxes can be a bit tedious to make and actually maintain. When I had my 98 Stang, I had clear fiberglass molded into the opening from the backseat to the trunk and made my 15" SPL's rear fireing with rear fireing ports. You can see the inside of the box from the inside of the car and you can add some internal neons to the box to make it a little easier on the eyes. If you really want the box to be viewable internally, make sure you do a good job on wireing, nothing is worse then people that don't know how to run wires. lol

you will definitely get more ouput from a ported box...buti have to disagree with you on blowing the sub. You are much more likely to blow a sub in a ported or bandpassed application. And the amp...I would mount against the back of the seat( only because i don't like mounting amps to the enclosure).
Mounting the amp(especially a sub amp) on the rear deck is a bad idea because of heat dissipation--unless you are willing to make some sort of suspended mounting where the amp hangs just below the deck and remain facing up....mounting an amp upside down against the rear deck will cause the amp to over heat in a lot of cases.

And your box in the mustang didn't have fiberglass my friend...your box had clear plexiglass---theres a huge difference....

VPStang · Apr 14, 2005

mrbeaubo said:
Well the thing is, I was space to mount the bottle, but I won't leave it in while I'm not running it at the track or whatever, just need the room. I want to build a ported box but I don't know how I'm going to fit it!

either way...like I said..if you build it on your own....just build it to fit better to the back of your trunk....and you can build it wider....though this may make it more difficult for ported application--depending on what kind of porting you'r going to do....I personally like slot porting so you don't have to mess around with a friggin pipe ....slot porting would also make it easier fo you to port a wide, narrower box....

VPStang · Apr 14, 2005

mrbeaubo said:
Hmm, I've dealt with fiberglass A LOT with my 75 corvette, and I'd rather just build one out of wood If the recommended range for my sealed enclosure is from .88 to 2.0 cubic feet. What will it sound at .88 and at 2.0, or in the area inbetween?

well, basically the more power you throw at a sub--the smaller you can make the box. What does the spec sheet with the sub recommend as the "optimal" enclosure size?
I usually just run with that if i don't know much about that particular sub...

The larger enclosure will also yield a lower frequency response but a little sloppier response. smaller enclosure will yield quick tight hit, fast response, but will not give as good of a low frequency response. Thats why it's important to find just the right spot in the middle. And in most cases--the "optimal" specs on the sheet are pretty good at that...

DMDyne · Apr 14, 2005

VPStang said:
And your box in the mustang didn't have fiberglass my friend...your box had clear plexiglass---theres a huge difference....

Yes, sorry, I couldn't find the correct word and it didn't sound right when I reread my typing. Thank you for the correction.

VPStang said:
you will definitely get more ouput from a ported box...buti have to disagree with you on blowing the sub. You are much more likely to blow a sub in a ported or bandpassed application.

A lot of people try to put L7's in the smallest possible sealed box and end up going too small because they try to measure only air space and not total volume which causes the sub to stress itself on the lower bass notes. Mrbeaubo seems to be more interested in getting this done correctly the first time so I think he may be ok with a sealed enclosure.

The rear deck is mostly steel so by putting the amp flush against the steel, your creating a larger heat sink. On the flip side, you can not wedge the amp up there with the box pressed against it because it won't allow air to flow over the surface of the amp which will cause overheating. Some of the older amps don't like to be upside down and simply will not work, the newer amps don't seem to be very picky. I've had great luck putting all my amps upside down on my deck. Currently, I have 2 MTX 1501D's and an MTX 6304 mounted like this in my Saturn. The 1501's are each under a rear speaker with about 1/4" clearence of the speaker. The 6304 is flush with the deck between the rear speakers.

VPStang · Apr 15, 2005

your putting a lot of faith into the conductive qualities of your rear deck...plus if you mount the amp upside down--your method goes to crap....the whole reason for a heatsink is to absorb the heat and dissipate it through the greater surface area yielded from all the ridges, etc. If you mount the amp upside down the heat goes from the heat sink back into the body of the amp....granted..this may not have any effect...depending on your application like you said....but as a best practice--it's not a good idea...i never did it in any of my cusomer's cars...and i will never do it in mine....

nhra427 · Apr 16, 2005

I have a 12 in a 1cf sealed box facing backwards. the box is angled on the back the same angle as the rear seat so its screwed through the metal behind the rear seat. i have 3 amps so i made a aluminum rack from so 3/4 square stock and it hangs from the pakage tray. the sub is on the right side and the rack is on the left. i have alot of room left. i have a image dynamics sub. from what they are saying you might want to get a different sub.

VPStang · Apr 18, 2005

nhra427 said:
I have a 12 in a 1cf sealed box facing backwards. the box is angled on the back the same angle as the rear seat so its screwed through the metal behind the rear seat. i have 3 amps so i made a aluminum rack from so 3/4 square stock and it hangs from the pakage tray. the sub is on the right side and the rack is on the left. i have alot of room left. i have a image dynamics sub. from what they are saying you might want to get a different sub.

I like ID subs...one of the better quality subs i've heard....

whitepitbull · Apr 18, 2005

i wonder if im the only person to have 2 12l7 in a 02 mustang gt vert very tight fit but made it happen

BlackArtemis · May 9, 2005

the 600.1 is too large to mount on 1 section of back seat. I wanted to mount my kx600.1 and kx300.4 on each side.
My suggestion is if you have delt with fiberglass do that. and fiberglass the sube to one wheel well and the amp to the opposing side.

Infinity · May 9, 2005

I doubt you'll be happy with a L7 in a sealed box. Ported is likely to be too large for your liking also. May I suggest choosing a different driver?

Bought Sub and Amp for 99+ Stang, Need Mounting Ideas

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