Brake experts chime in

new pads rotors a good bleed and adjust rear brakes should fix you up

This is a great brake upgrade if you are using stock brakes, it's from the folks at Maximum Motorsports. Part # BP-1



Grand total = $257.04

I went with Brembo rotors, stock size with no drilling or slots since they don't offer any performance advantage on a street car.... $75 each from buybrakes.com. Very good quality rotors for the money IMO the only thing I don't like about them is they're not plated so they're starting to rust on the edges, but some high temp paint will take care of that. For front pads I went with Hawk HPS which is a really good pad for street use... they put out more dust than stock but they brake so much better than whatever was on there before.

For the rear I got Brembo drums and those Maximum Motorsports shoes. I still have yet to install them but they look like quality. I have all new hardware and wheel cylinders from Napa waiting to go on as well. I figure it's cheap insurance.

Just bleeding the brakes should get rid of much of the spongy feeling. I got Motorcraft fluid from the local Ford dealer. I hear stainless lines are nice to have though. I think my next brake upgrade will be the metal caliper guide sleeves from Max Motorsports.

BigHairyMonkey said:

im thinking this

plus a pair of these for the front (powerslot rotors)

anything else i should replace while im down there

Click to expand...

I wouldn't pop for the slotted rotors. A good quality stardard rotor will work well.

I'd also get some of these http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Disagree on the cross drilled rotors having no use on a street car. Go up to the mountains somtimes and with stock rotors, had bad brake fade by the time I got to the bottom. The cross drilled eliminated this by venting the heat.

My 0.02

The steering wheel shaking is due to either warped rotors, or hotspotted rotors. Check for a blued (is that how you spelled the past tence of blue?) or mirror glaze on the rotors, as well as spots where it is darker than the other. Also check for cracks. If you see any cracks, discard the rotors. If it has unmistakable hotspots, best to get new rotors, they tend to come back. If they are just glazed, or warped, and they are not close to thier thinnest rating, just get them machined. As far as getting slotted/crossdrilled rotors, I don't belive they are worth it unless new regular rotors are about the same price. If your going to spend that kind of money, just upgrade the whole system. Also, be sure the pads are wearing evenly from the left the right side.

If the pads are not cracked, and still have plenty of meat left, just sand them down evenly to get a new surface. If you get new pads, Hawk and the EBC's are good, they wear faster but are softer on rotors, and do grip better.

REAR DRUMS. Be sure they are in proper working order, the inside of the drum is not glazed, and the pads have beef and are not cracked, clean them while your are at it. Adjust the drums from the backside with the drum on until you feel just a little drag.

Hi Guys and Gals, Just a quick question. I was going to install SVO calipers in my '93 LX. I have a set of Hawk HPS pads for the stock caliper (HB263F-650) but they didn't fit the larger 73mm pistons. The clip was actually too large. Summit has SVO calipers as well but they say I need a special clip to use the SVO pads (HB125F-650). Just curious about which are the proper pads to use with steel piston SVO calipers. I have new slotted and cross-drilled rotors and new bearings, the MM stainless lines and steel bushings. Would I better off just sticking with the 60mm stock calipers? Mostly street with a few drag runs occasionally. Thanks much!