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Brake light and rotors

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jinx
  • Start date Start date Mar 6, 2010

Jinx

I like cats, cats like me. Cats and I fully agree.
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 2, 2003
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4,237
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Cat Country
Mar 6, 2010
#1
  • Mar 6, 2010
  • #1
OK, after some heavy breaking this week (twice), I noticed that my brake light (not the traction) came on. So I wait till everything is cool to touch and notice that there is a slight "lip" at the outer edge of the front rotors (not so much on the rear). The brake system is still all factory installed. Never had any trouble with it. The breaks squeek first thing in the AM but that's just from the typical rust dust from the humidity, they never make a sound the rest of the day.

2003 GT with 74k on the dial.

So it is probably time for new pads, but what about the rotors? Will I have to buy new ones, or can they be turned?
 

joshjwc9

Active Member
Jun 12, 2006
1,095
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39
Palm Harbor, FL
Mar 6, 2010
#2
  • Mar 6, 2010
  • #2
Check the fluid level first.
You need to remove the rotors and find the in spec thickness that is stamped somewhere on the rotors. If it is within thickness you can get them turned, otherwise you cannot.

If you upgrade, think about upgrading to Cobra calipers/SS front lines and a performance street pad.
 

Jinx

I like cats, cats like me. Cats and I fully agree.
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 2, 2003
12,166
4,237
223
Cat Country
Mar 6, 2010
#3
  • Mar 6, 2010
  • #3
Checked fluid level, it was within range, but it took 6fl. oz. to top it off to max. The feel of the peddle has not changed, but it may have changed over time and I just don't notice it.

I got a better look at the rotors this morning. I'd have to say that that "lip" is about half the thickness of a dime. I could get the caliper out and give y'all a proper reading, but don't think it's necessary.

We'll see how the test driving goes today, but I don't like breaking hard, unless I have to.
 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member
Jan 31, 2003
3,125
81
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Canada
Mar 6, 2010
#4
  • Mar 6, 2010
  • #4
FWIW, you probably shouldn't have added fluid.

If the fluid is low (and there's no leaks) and you're seeing signs of wear on the rotors, it's time to look at the pads. Since the pistons in the calipers will need to be retracted before new pads are installed, the fluid you added will need to be removed or it will spill out and make a mess. Remember this step when replacing the pads to avoid getting that stuff everywhere...
 

hotdog71

Member
Dec 8, 2004
427
0
16
Seattle, Eastside
Mar 7, 2010
#5
  • Mar 7, 2010
  • #5
Do the Cobra and 13' rotors upgrade well worth the coin! I love mine made a huge difference in stopping and looks
 

Jinx

I like cats, cats like me. Cats and I fully agree.
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 2, 2003
12,166
4,237
223
Cat Country
Mar 7, 2010
#6
  • Mar 7, 2010
  • #6
I'm gonna see if I can get it in for an inspection this week. If I need only the pads, should I pick up a set of speed bleeders as well?
 

Jinx

I like cats, cats like me. Cats and I fully agree.
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 2, 2003
12,166
4,237
223
Cat Country
Mar 8, 2010
#7
  • Mar 8, 2010
  • #7
Driving in this morning, I waited until no traffic was visible, and proceeded to stand on the brakes hard enough like before and no brake light came on. Then I resumed speed and stood on the brakes even harder than before. Threw out a ABS control light, but no brake light. So I get the car to the tire center this morning and am told the rotors are within spec and the front pads still have 1/2" on them. Brake light was probably being thrown from low fluid/pressure level.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Mar 8, 2010
#8
  • Mar 8, 2010
  • #8
Yes
 
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