Brake Lines and Bleeding

Shouldn't take anymore than two hours. Just don't let the level in the master cylinder run low. I fill it back up after each line I bleed.

Brake Bleeding Methods

There are three methods of bleeding that can be done without prohibitively expensive equipment: manual brake bleeding, vacuum brake bleeding, and gravity brake bleeding. Whether bleeding a master cylinder on a bench, or a brake caliper or wheel cylinder on the car or truck, the principle is the same. You want to force air and fluid out and add new fluid, all while preventing fresh air from entering the system. Regardless of the method you choose, you'll quickly realize the trick is to keep the brake fluid moving in only one direction; from the master cylinder through to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders. Be sure to keep topping up the master cylinder with brake fluid as you bleed each wheel and after you are finished to prevent it from running low and pulling fresh air into the system. When the system is full of clean brake fluid and there is no air trapped inside, the brake pedal should be high and firm.


Method 1: Manual Bleeding

Manual brake bleeding is the most common method of bleeding brakes; however, you will need to enlist the help of an assistant. With your assistant sitting in the driver's seat, repeat the following six steps a number of times on each brake until you are sure there is no air trapped in the system. Use a narrow block of wood behind the pedal to prevent it from travelling all the way to the floor. Lastly, place a three foot piece of vinyl hose on the end of the bleeder screw to direct old fluid into a plastic container.


1) Instruct your assistant to pump the brake pedal for thirty seconds

2)Instruct your assistant to press and hold the brake pedal firmly

3)Open a bleeder screw and let the air and old fluid escape

4)Close the bleeder screw

5)Instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal

6)Wait fifteen seconds


Method 2: Vacuum Bleeding

Vacuum bleeding has the advantage of being a one-person job, but requires a special tool known as a vacuum tester or brake bleeding kit. The tool is fairly inexpensive and can be ordered online by clicking on the link above. Whereas manual brake bleeding requires you to "push" brake fluid out; the object of vacuum bleeding is to "pull" brake fluid out. Repeat the following three steps on each brake.


1)Connect the hose from the vacuum tool to the bleeder screw and then open the bleeder screw

2)Pump the tool until the fluid leaving the bleeder screw runs clean and is free of bubbles

3)Close the bleeder screw and disconnect the vacuum tool hose

Method 3: Gravity Bleeding

Gravity bleeding is the easiest method of bleeding brakes. Simply, repeat the following two steps on each brake. Unfortunately, leaving the screw open for any length of time will allow it to absorb moisture. Additionally, air bubbles may be trapped in the system and need to be worked out using a vacuum or pressure bleeding method. The gravity bleeding method can be used when only a brake caliper or wheel cylinder was replaced.


1)Open one bleeder screw at a time and wait until the air works its way out of the system

2)Close the bleeder screw when clean brake fluid runs from the bleeder screw

if the car is already in the air then plan on 1 to 1.5 hours of actual bleeding... That is how long it took me and a bud to do mine. We did each wheel like 20 times and went around the car 3 times, then the front right took a bunch more bleeding to get it all done...

So not killer at all...