I own a 2000 GT and recently had to install new brake pads in the back. After I unbolted the calipers and pulled the pads off, I took a look at the rotors and saw that the passenger side rotor needed some major machining. Instead of getting it machined I decided to just put on some new rotors. While I was at it, I also bought a new hardware kit because the old pads were missing the clips. Anyway, I got it all put back together and put maybe 20-30 miles on them and now they've started howling very loudly while I drive down the road. The howling, however, stops when I depress the brake pedal. Also, I pulled up in the driveway tonight and got out and the passenger side was slightly smoking from around the caliper. I have no idea what is causing either of these two problems. Any suggestions on how to fix either would be greatly appreciated!!
Brake Problem
- Thread starter DaveBrowning
- Start date
Kinda :OT:
Will a bad caliper or one that needs to have the slide pins greased, make weird noises when pressing the brakes? My truck is making a weird sound from the driver side front when I press the brakes. It's like a 'wobble-squeak' type sound.
It's been annoying me for like two weeks.
Will a bad caliper or one that needs to have the slide pins greased, make weird noises when pressing the brakes? My truck is making a weird sound from the driver side front when I press the brakes. It's like a 'wobble-squeak' type sound.
It's been annoying me for like two weeks.Well, I went ahead and bought a new caliper. It came with the slide pins, the boots, etc. After I installed the caliper, I was going to install the new slide pins but could not get the pins out. Is there a trick to getting the pins out or do you just have to pull like hell? BTW, I went ahead and drove the car to see if I might have fixed the problem with just the caliper but it still howled. So I guess it has to be the slide pins. Any suggestions on how to get the pins out would be awesome.
Oh, sorry you are right. You will need that piece also if the pins are seized in it. You will also need to bleed your brakes after doing this. And another thing, when your brake lines are open it is best to try to plug them to prevent air being drawn up into the line. Letting air get drawn in could actually lead to your car being towed to a shop to get the ABS valve assembly bled of air. Also, the bolts that hold the caliper bracket on typically have threadlock on the and are extremely difficult to remove. Just go right to the 2-3' breaker bar with them.
Sorry to hear you brakes are giving you so much trouble but brake jobs can be tricky sometimes. Once you get all these new parts on you should be good for quite a while so its worth it.
Here are some informative articles for you:
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1006.htm
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1003.htm
http://www.bullittarchive.com/5001.htm
The first Bullitt archive article has a slightly different brake design but there is still some good info...
Sorry to hear you brakes are giving you so much trouble but brake jobs can be tricky sometimes. Once you get all these new parts on you should be good for quite a while so its worth it.
Here are some informative articles for you:
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1006.htm
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1003.htm
http://www.bullittarchive.com/5001.htm
The first Bullitt archive article has a slightly different brake design but there is still some good info...
new rear brackets are $40 from Ford. I beleive NAPA may even sell them separate. www.diskbrakesrus.com also has them at around $40
The slide pins siezing is a VERY COMMON problem on Mustangs.
The slide pins siezing is a VERY COMMON problem on Mustangs.
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