Brake Problem

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DaveBrowning

New Member

Sep 23, 2005

4

0

0

Arkansas

Aug 24, 2006

#1

• Aug 24, 2006

• #1

I own a 2000 GT and recently had to install new brake pads in the back. After I unbolted the calipers and pulled the pads off, I took a look at the rotors and saw that the passenger side rotor needed some major machining. Instead of getting it machined I decided to just put on some new rotors. While I was at it, I also bought a new hardware kit because the old pads were missing the clips. Anyway, I got it all put back together and put maybe 20-30 miles on them and now they've started howling very loudly while I drive down the road. The howling, however, stops when I depress the brake pedal. Also, I pulled up in the driveway tonight and got out and the passenger side was slightly smoking from around the caliper. I have no idea what is causing either of these two problems. Any suggestions on how to fix either would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Brute03

Member

Mar 20, 2006

232

0

16

Aug 25, 2006

#2

• Aug 25, 2006

• #2

it sounds like the caliper is sticking, take it off and grease the guide pins and make sure the little boots aren't torn or have dirt trap inside, if that doesn't work you might need a new caliper. i've seen the same thing happen to a friend of mine

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

4,749

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Aug 25, 2006

#3

• Aug 25, 2006

• #3

You must lube the caliper slide pins when servicing the brake calipers. Use antiseize...

New calipers are $59 at AutoZone.

 

DTNODYA

Member

Dec 15, 2005

831

1

16

Aug 25, 2006

#4

• Aug 25, 2006

• #4

Kinda :OT:

Will a bad caliper or one that needs to have the slide pins greased, make weird noises when pressing the brakes? My truck is making a weird sound from the driver side front when I press the brakes. It's like a 'wobble-squeak' type sound. It's been annoying me for like two weeks.

 

G

GodAmGT00

New Member

Jul 28, 2006

75

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Massachusetts

Aug 25, 2006

#5

• Aug 25, 2006

• #5

Kilgore Trout said:

You must lube the caliper slide pins when servicing the brake calipers. Use antiseize...

New calipers are $59 at AutoZone.

Click to expand...

This is sort of OT, but how much is the core charge for you in your area?? Where I'm at, the actual Core charge is nearly twice the price of the rear calipers.. And those are ReMans...




JT

 

D

DaveBrowning

New Member

Sep 23, 2005

4

0

0

Arkansas

Aug 25, 2006

#6

• Aug 25, 2006

• #6

Well, I went ahead and bought a new caliper. It came with the slide pins, the boots, etc. After I installed the caliper, I was going to install the new slide pins but could not get the pins out. Is there a trick to getting the pins out or do you just have to pull like hell? BTW, I went ahead and drove the car to see if I might have fixed the problem with just the caliper but it still howled. So I guess it has to be the slide pins. Any suggestions on how to get the pins out would be awesome.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

4,749

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Aug 25, 2006

#7

• Aug 25, 2006

• #7

Hold on a second... Can you take some pics of what you are talking about cause the pins being stuck in a brand new caliper don't make no sense.

 

D

DaveBrowning

New Member

Sep 23, 2005

4

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0

Arkansas

Aug 25, 2006

#8

• Aug 25, 2006

• #8

The pins are in the caliper anchor plate not the new caliper. I need to pull the two old pins out and then slide in the new ones. My problem is I can't get the old pins to come out of the anchor plate.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

4,749

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Aug 26, 2006

#9

• Aug 26, 2006

• #9

Oh, sorry you are right. You will need that piece also if the pins are seized in it. You will also need to bleed your brakes after doing this. And another thing, when your brake lines are open it is best to try to plug them to prevent air being drawn up into the line. Letting air get drawn in could actually lead to your car being towed to a shop to get the ABS valve assembly bled of air. Also, the bolts that hold the caliper bracket on typically have threadlock on the and are extremely difficult to remove. Just go right to the 2-3' breaker bar with them.

Sorry to hear you brakes are giving you so much trouble but brake jobs can be tricky sometimes. Once you get all these new parts on you should be good for quite a while so its worth it.

Here are some informative articles for you:
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1006.htm
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1003.htm
http://www.bullittarchive.com/5001.htm

The first Bullitt archive article has a slightly different brake design but there is still some good info...

 

D

DaveBrowning

New Member

Sep 23, 2005

4

0

0

Arkansas

Aug 26, 2006

#10

• Aug 26, 2006

• #10

I've already taken the brackets off when I put the new rotors on, so getting them off won't be a problem. The problem is going to be the cost. How much do you think a new bracket will cost me, because I'm running out of money to spend on brakes.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,141

17,839

224

Massachusetts

Aug 26, 2006

#11

• Aug 26, 2006

• #11

new rear brackets are $40 from Ford. I beleive NAPA may even sell them separate. www.diskbrakesrus.com also has them at around $40

The slide pins siezing is a VERY COMMON problem on Mustangs.