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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

brake problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stumbaugh
  • Start date Start date Sep 5, 2010

Stumbaugh

Member
May 13, 2010
903
13
19
Russellville, Ar
Sep 5, 2010
#1
  • Sep 5, 2010
  • #1
The other day, I decided to go ahead and change out my front brake pads. I compressed the piston's in and all that good stuff and put the new pad's on. Well, I noticed that afterwards that my brake pedal was extremly mushy. Last week I had the rear end out of my car and had to disconnect the rear brake lines. Well after bleeding the rear brakes, I could still take the pedal all the way to the floor. So I pulled the front wheels off, and proceded to bleed the front brakes. After bleeding the front's, the brake pedal is better, but it still almost goes to the floor (if I really stomp on it). Here's a few things tho:

The brake fluid that came out of the rear brakes was clean fluid, but the fluid that came out of the front brakes was very nasty.
Also, it's not like there is barely any fluid getting to the calipers, when I would have my friend build up pressure then me release the bleeder valve, plenty of fluid would come out instantly.

I really dont even know where to start. It just doesnt make sence to me that after changing the brake pads, my pedal would seem horrible. Any help?
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Sep 5, 2010
#2
  • Sep 5, 2010
  • #2
When you compressed the pistons, did you force old brake fluid backwards through the ABS system?

Better to not force old fluid backwards through the system. Open the bleeder valve and let the old fluid escape from the bleeder screw.

How hard was it to compress the piston? If it was real hard, what may be happening is the piston is binding inside the caliper. This is what is making the pedal feel weak because the piston can not move freely.

New calipers may be in your future.

In any case, it's not a bad idea to continue bleeding the brakes until the fluid is clear.
 

Flghtmstr1

Member
Mar 31, 2005
572
4
19
Springfield, PA
Sep 5, 2010
#3
  • Sep 5, 2010
  • #3
Perhaps air somehow got into the ABS pump. Or it could just be that the new pads aren't broken in yet.
 

Stumbaugh

Member
May 13, 2010
903
13
19
Russellville, Ar
Sep 6, 2010
#4
  • Sep 6, 2010
  • #4
wmburns said:
When you compressed the pistons, did you force old brake fluid backwards through the ABS system?

Better to not force old fluid backwards through the system. Open the bleeder valve and let the old fluid escape from the bleeder screw.

How hard was it to compress the piston? If it was real hard, what may be happening is the piston is binding inside the caliper. This is what is making the pedal feel weak because the piston can not move freely.

New calipers may be in your future.
Click to expand...

I did not open the bleeder valve. I was thinking I might have ruined my calipers but was hoping it was something smaller. If this is the case, new calipers are in my immidiate future. With this car being my DD, I am not going to risk my life along with others due to my stupidity, so new calipers are going to be ordered tonight.
 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member
Oct 10, 2000
1,427
6
79
Chesterfield, MO
Sep 6, 2010
#5
  • Sep 6, 2010
  • #5
Stumbaugh:

Bleed the master cylinder. There are two bleeders on it on the engine side.

No flame intended but if the fluid is really dark, it would behoove you to flush it all out with clean/fresh fluid. The dark color is due to corrosion products that can plug up the tiny fluid passages. This is never a good thing. Good practice to flush every two years.

You will be surprised how little air it takes in a brake system to give a soft pedal. Just keep bleeding the system and the pedal will firm up. The preferred order of bleeding is: passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front, master cylinder (two bleeders).

HTH,

Chris
 

Stumbaugh

Member
May 13, 2010
903
13
19
Russellville, Ar
Sep 6, 2010
#6
  • Sep 6, 2010
  • #6
Problem solved.

I went and bled the master cylinder and kept bleeding until all the darkish colored fluid was gone. Feels like new again! Thanks for the help!
 
C

Cherry99GTvert

New Member
Aug 8, 2010
33
0
0
Colorado Springs
Sep 6, 2010
#7
  • Sep 6, 2010
  • #7
I just went through this same thing, anytime you disconnect the brake lines on a hydroboost ford abs brake system you cannot bleed them manually from home. In my case i drove it to the shop down the street using the ebrake and they used a pressure bleeder and it was top of the line not some little home 5 gallon air compressor bleeder. The good news my pedal stopped going to the floor but it would fade to the floor due to the fact i tried to bleed them myself and the abs was empty of fluid i now need a new master cylinder so im driving my truck cause i hate having to slow down sooner than im used to. The brake systems on these cars are very much a pain in the ass. I disconnected my front lines to put on the steel braided racing lines from goodridge and after i couldnt get them to gravity bleed at all i picked up my chilton book and it said everything i just told you- minus the personal comments. goodluck but just take it to a brake shop and have them pressure bleed it to make it driveable again.
 
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