Brand new throughout bearing noise? Help!

88GThatchback

Founding Member
Jul 8, 2002
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16
Livermore, CA
I just put in a SPEC Stage 2 clutch with my new engine. I used the T/O bearing that came with the clutch and installed a new steel T/O bearing retainer on the tranny. For the first 200-250 miles, there were no problems other than some coolant leaks here and there. Recently while driving the car, there is a loud ticking noise comming from the clutch when the clutch petal is depressed. The noise is not always there. It only seems to do it after I go WOT. And after letting the car sit for ~10 min, the noise is gone! What is causing it? I have a little over 300 miles on it now. With the clutch in, the ticking speeds up and slows down with the engine speed. The clutch and t/o bearing are both brand new so I don't see why it would make any noise.

Thanks,
Clay
 
Clay, is that clutch still bedding in? I thought Specs needed 500 miles or so. You have a nice set up with good power so I would really let it bed in.

How is the clutch adjustment? Is it possible you are overextending the diaphram fingers?

Good luck.
 
Yes, the clutch is still bedding in. When im doing the WOT runs, I am rolling into the throttle smooth, not just banging gears. I know the clutch needs to bed in so im not shifting hard or anything. As for the adjustment, I have a quad and firewall adjuster. When I first hooked the cluch up, the cable was way tight and engaged at the top of the petal. I didnt have anymore adjustment on the adjuster so I moved to another hook on the quadrant. Now, at full engagement, the cable has about 1/2" of free play at the fork side. The clutch engages about halfway out like normal. The noise is there if you put any pressure on the petal at all. So I dont think its its overextending the fingers. Any other ideas before I pull it apart? When I do pull it, should I replace the fork and pivot ball or just the T/O bearing?

Thanks,
Clay
 
Well im going to pull it apart tonight and see whats up. I drove for about 30 min today and it started making the noise. I jacked it up and looked in access hole while it was making noise and didnt really see anything wrong. Any other ideas?
 
I have been trying to think of what else one can check, but w/o a visual inspection, I cant think of much.

Good luck with it.
 
Is there anything that is supposed to keep the t/o bearing off of the fingers while the clutch is engaged? My dad thinks that with the t/o bearing spinning all the time, there is no grease left in it, thus making the noise when it gets hot. Kinda makes sence but there isnt anything that holds the t/o off of the fingers.
 
Ford supposedly wants the TOB to touch the diaphram fingers, which is why the cable gets preloaded.

I feel the same way you do - I keep freeplay in the cable. When the TOB starts making noises unless it is touching the fingers, Ill keep it like this.


But it should be able to handle it. I had the EXACT same concerns you do though.
 
Seem slike the last two clutches I've put in my car, that I've had the opposite problem. I get a ticking noise from the tranny until I put slight pressure on the clutch pedal. I can get rid of the noise by adjusting the cable a little tighter but then I wonder if I'm causing the clutch to not fully engage. It's annoying as hell but something I live with in order to ensure full engagement. Other than the TO bearing, I can't think of anything else that's down there that could possibly be making contact and causing the noise.
 
Well... it wasnt the bearing. Im just going to drive it easy and let it break in. It has to do with heat I think. I did a couple pulls to log with my new wideband and after it made the noise. I drove home easy without much shifting and when I got home, it was fine. We will see what happends tomorrow when i go for a nice long drive.
 
Took it for a nice long dive today in the 100+ degree heat. Still made the noise after it got hot. I never got on it or anything, just drove nice and slow. It sounds like something is rubbing on sheetmetal. Im going to call spec on monday and see what they say. I have about 470 miles on it now, so it should be broken in.

Clay
 
I changed mine to a steel bearing retainer that I bought from summit a couple years back, and the damn retainer was bad. The sleeve actually came loose of the mount and in the end, the output shaft moved a fraction of an inch with disallowed full disenguagement of the clutch unless in neutral. And then when you came back into first, you had to grind the hell out of it. But it started like you say, with a ticking type noise that sounded like something was just catching, and ended with a 3rd gear 90MPH race down GA400 and a serious grinding halt. Turned out, summit had issues with their retainers and actually paid me for the parts on the rebuild of my T5
 
I took it all apart and found that there are two burrs on the flywheel! They are on the crank side of the flywheel and wound rub on the plate between the bellhousing and block. I dont know where they came from because I dont remember seeing them when I put the flywheel on. I guess the little bit that the crank moves would cause it to rub when hot. Ill post some pics later.

Clay