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Brass Fitting For Temp Sensor Popped Out Of Intake Manifold

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bob2000GT
  • Start date Start date Jun 5, 2012

Bob2000GT

Member
Jul 3, 2011
27
2
13
Halifax, NS
Jun 5, 2012
#1
  • Jun 5, 2012
  • #1
Hi:

Ran into a problem installing a t-connection into the PI intake manifold for my new temperature sensor. The brass hex plug appeared to be loose and I pulled it right out. This is a friction fit with an o-ring, no threads. I searched the internet and found one thread from 5-6 years ago and that was it. The poster suggested that he was going to use JB Weld, a new o-ring and push it back in. There were no followup threads so I don't know how he made out.

Anyone else have this or aware of such a problem and how it might be fixed. I am confident that I can use an adhesive of some sort and use a c-clamp to press it back in but would like to hear from others who have found a solution that actually works. I have another intake with an aluminum coolant crossover that I just purchased on the way, but was planning on using it for a future build.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

trombonedemon

Well-Known Member
Jun 25, 2009
1,962
39
59
U.S.A, U.S.A., U.S.A.!
Jun 5, 2012
#2
  • Jun 5, 2012
  • #2
You could use J.B. weld b/c the brass fitting is held in by some type of locking substance to begin with. Same thing happened to me, I ended up having to replace the entire manifold with a Dorman part, and then ended up replacing the manifold again due to leaky rubber sealing rings on the Dorman manifold.

The temp sensor is gonna have to be in flowing coolant to give an accurate reading. the T-fitting is gonna get air trapped and give you false readings. Trust been through all of the sensor hook ups accept the Air fuel ratios.

Instead of buying 100 dollar gauges I ended up buying a Bully Dog Watch Dog digital gauge that hooks into the OBD port. 250 from Amazon.
 

Bob2000GT

Member
Jul 3, 2011
27
2
13
Halifax, NS
Jun 6, 2012
#3
  • Jun 6, 2012
  • #3
Thanks, I will give the jb weld a try and see what happens. Hope I can avoid replacing right now.
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Jun 6, 2012
#4
  • Jun 6, 2012
  • #4
If looking for another option, try re-locating the temperature sensor to the block drain plug located on the side of the block near the freeze plugs. It will be necessary to make a short extension harness but that's not too hard. The holes should have the same threads.
 

Bob2000GT

Member
Jul 3, 2011
27
2
13
Halifax, NS
Jun 10, 2012
#5
  • Jun 10, 2012
  • #5
UPDATE:
Thanks for the replies. Used JB Weld and pressed in with a c-clamp and let it set overnight. Have had it out a number of times and seems to be holding. In fact I think that it might actually be in better than it was originally.

I did try the bolt on the bottom of the engine which in my case was a recessed hex head. No luck, wasn't going to budge. I went back to the T fitting. Reading seems acurate and just in case, I "burped it". Just loosened the stock sensor in the T until it leaked fluid an the retightend. No air and it works fine.

Thanks, again.
 
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