bringing back badly faded paint

[NKau]

I just picked up an '89 GT down here in Florida. Absolutely straight and rust free car, but the sun has really taken a toll on the paint. I'll be having the silver on the ground effects/bumpers repainted because they're too far gone, but want to know the best way to bring back the paint on the upper portion of the car (if it can be). The paint/clearcoat has kind of a hazey look to it; it's not coming off in any areas, but is really dull. Anything I can try myself to see if this paint is salvagable? Is it possible that the clearcoat just needs to be reshot? Thanks for any input.

 

[88GT17MA]

Start waxing! lol, seriously, I think the best way is just numerous coats of wax. Just buff the hell out of it. I would remove the wax with a dry cloth by hand so that you can really rub it in. Just keep doing layers, just when you think you did enough and that it looks good, do another layer. You will see it shine. You can also use some polish at the end of the job, just be carefull with it because if you let it sit for a while it can mess some pieces up.

BTW - I like your avitar, mudvayne is an awesome band

 

[NKau]

Thanks. Yeah, I planned on waxing the hell out of it, but was curious if there's anything other than wax to apply first that can really cut into the oxidation.

 

[super302]

color-cure or other similar wax-like products found at auto-zone or other auto places.

 

[URNEXT]

Thanks. Yeah, I planned on waxing the hell out of it, but was curious if there's anything other than wax to apply first that can really cut into the oxidation.

Maguires has a three step process that I got in AutoZone. A cleaner, wax, and polish, I think. My car is a 93 black Florida coupe. I got it about three years ago and the paint was in very bad shape (oxidized). I spent a couple of days of dedicated polishing and detailing to bring it back to life. Everyone thought I painted it.

I detail it with Maguires Quick Wax. It cuts the serious waxing down to like once a year. This car has been a daily driver and stayed in the sun everyday for almost three years. Now, with my new house, she is a garage baby.

I like to use the word "polish" instead of "wax". If you rub very hard then you scratch the paint. The trick is to gently polish away the swirl marks for a final buff. Hope this helps.

 

[90mustangGT]

Depending on how bad the paint is depends on the work you will need to do. I used a high speed buffer, not an orbital. Started with a Wool pad and used Meguires Fine Cut Rubbing Compound. Be carefull, you can go right through the paint so stay off the edges. This will take that top layer off that makes it look so dull. Then I used a foam pad and Machine Pollish and went over it with that. Finally, used a regular wax with an orbital. This was easier said than done. Took some practice, and a couple days. About half an hour per pannel per step.

Before I did the buff job, I use to hear "nice car, it would really be nice with a paint job" to "who painted your car". That much of a difference. Here is my old cardomain site, you can see on page one what it looks like and page two you can see the stock photo when I first got it. It was pretty bad, where the plastic and metal pannels didn't match.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/555398

 

[88GT17MA]

Depending on how bad the paint is depends on the work you will need to do. I used a high speed buffer, not an orbital. Started with a Wool pad and used Meguires Fine Cut Rubbing Compound. Be carefull, you can go right through the paint so stay off the edges. This will take that top layer off that makes it look so dull. Then I used a foam pad and Machine Pollish and went over it with that. Finally, used a regular wax with an orbital. This was easier said than done. Took some practice, and a couple days. About half an hour per pannel per step.

Before I did the buff job, I use to hear "nice car, it would really be nice with a paint job" to "who painted your car". That much of a difference. Here is my old cardomain site, you can see on page one what it looks like and page two you can see the stock photo when I first got it. It was pretty bad, where the plastic and metal pannels didn't match.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/555398

I would listen to 90mustanggt.....his paint looks awesome

 

[Michael Yount]

My guess is that it's simply too far gone to do much of anything with; seen too many cars from the heart of the sunbelt. However, I'd take it by a paint shop that you trust and ask them to take a look at it. They can tell you in short order if it's salvageable, or if it's time to re-shoot.

 

[millhouse]

I have some pics before and after using ssr2. You can read all about it here---->linky

 

[90mustangGT]

I would listen to 90mustanggt.....his paint looks awesome

Thanks for the compliment. I worked hard on it. My paint was really bad though, if you saw page 2 the stock "before" photo, and even that pic was fresh after the Meguires 3 step, I was too embarrased to take a pic of it before that. Oxidized pinkish, acid rain damage, scratches and swirel marks everwhere. The 3 step did wonders, but the high speed buff really did the trick. A buddy of mine works at a body shop, he specializes if buffing cars, and his dad is one of the best body men around. When they said "It'll buff out" I thought he was kidding. They explained that paint is a chemical, it does not fade, but it gets tiny pits and scratches, they fill with dirt. As long as your not down to the primer it can be brought back. They told me how to do it, and I did with thier direction. I started on the hood, and ruined it. A part of the pad was bumping the corner of the stock cowl, left a primer stripe. That is why I got the hood (plus I got a really good deal). My paint was really pitted bad, all the way down pitted. Mine was about as bad as you can get and do somewhat a recovery. It looks great in the right light, and looks good from 10+feet but if you really look, you can see it still has a lot of pitting. I am afraid to go any deeper becaue the paint is so thin.

I got the High Speed Buffer from PepBoys for $60.
Pads are harder to find. Had to go to a pro body supply store. Get either the velcro ones that attach to a base, or the one's that bolt to the buffer, Never use the the one's that slip over the factory wheel, that is how I burnt the hood.
Take your time and be patient and very carefull. You may want to see how much a body shop would charge, because you can screw it up easy.

 

[jas7865]

Trust me when I tell you its probally gone I have a couple buddys that work @ body shops they will tell you that ,cleaners ,polish are all temporary coverups, the sun after time will break down your paint and that sounds like whats going on with yours, you can buff it out and put several layers of wax on and it will look perfect for a couple of weeks but the haze and oxidation will shine through eventually. good luck I hope Im wrong but all you can do is try!