Build list.

Wont run low 12s, on a street tire that combo mid 13s maybe, maybe higher 13s. You will need a TQ converter first and for most, the Intake is not matched to the heads well at all especially when the stock cam will be signing off at 5000 RPM and that intake wants more. I don't see a MAF in the list, which why have a large TB (very large for that combo), intake, and a stock MAF? The injectors will be fine the ignition it can't hurt anything to upgrade.

The list looks alright, and a lot of the stuff is good, but some of the parts seem mismatched, and knowing you wanted low 12s on a street tire, your going to have to spray that thing with a good amount to do that.

A thumper E7 car to run low 12s will need all the tips and tricks and a tire, launched hard and shifted hard, or a real good auto behind it.

Why bother playing around with stock heads?
Save up and get a decent set of heads.

Id look into getting the Trickflow package- it has heads, a cam, the intake you want and all necessary accessories (rockers, lifters, gaskets, etc).
Its about $2200 but its worth it.

I spent more than that putting a set of AFR heads and a Comp cam in it by the time I bought all the rockers, gaskets, etc and I already had an intake on the car.

If i were you i would do what PJB said. Save up and get the trickflow package. Everything is matched well and you will see better numbers.

Like 25th said there are some mismatched parts in there.

How long are you planning on keeping this combo? Cause if you plan on keeping it for a while it would be worth it to go with a custom cam. They are more money up front but they are designed to work with YOUR combo.

The stock converter is going to hold you back. Lots of guys have had good luck and good service from edge racing converters and for a shift kit I would go with the baumann shift recal kit. You can get them from www.becontrols.com. I have a transgo in my 93 and no issues but some guys have had problems with them shifting into OD under WOT for some reason. I would avoid that issue and go baumann.

Also are you going with a one piece input shaft or a hardened input shaft? They are 2 different things. The hardened input shaft will allow the use of either a "lockup" or a "non lockup" style converter but IIRC a one piece input can only be used with a non lock up and you have to pull the AOD and do some dissassembly to get it in. With the hardened input you just slide the old one out and the slide the new one in. If you go with non lockup converter you can probably reuse the stock direct drive shaft(what the hardened input shaft replaces) but if funds allow it is always a good idea to upgrade. Precision Industries makes a nice one.

And like Montegoman posted in the other thread www.clickclickracing.com has some awesome info on the AOD and tips and tricks to make it run great and be dependable.

If your aod is in good shape, a nice stall and shift kit will bring it to life. If you beat on it, don't plan on it lasting to long. The Trick flow kit is about the best bang for your buck as for as overall performance. I know of plenty cars that run the systemax kit from holley and know of a few great running edlebrock cars that were pieced together. The TF kit is the cheapest as it comes with almost everything u need. They holley and edelbrock setups will need extra stuff like Roller rockers, pushrods and other stuff the will nickel and dime u to death. Get th trick flow kit, a nice 3k stall and shift kit. Press the gas and have fun!!!

Personally as far at the input shaft goes I would go with the hardened input shaft and not the 1 piece. That way if you get a non lock up converter and decide that you hate it you can go back to a lock up style with no major mods. You will have to pull the trans but you won't have to go into disassembly of it to swap back to the stock style 2 piece input shaft.

Just a note on the lock up vs non lock up converters and the input shafts. If you are going to retain a lock up style converter then definetely go with the hardened input shaft. Here is a small description of how the input shaft set up works. On an AOD the input shaft is actually 2 shafts. The outer shaft is larger, splined on the outside and hollow in the middle. This part of the shaft is for gears 1 and 2. The inner shaft is skinnier and splined on both ends. It slides into the transmission through hollow opening in the larger shaft. So it is kinda like a shaft with a shaft design. The inner shaft, or direct drive, takes care of gears 3 and 4. The main problem with this design is that the larger outer shaft is fluid coupled via the TC to the engine. Thus it slips some and doesn't apply the power instantly. The weaker input shaft is direct driven. When a higher torque/hp car shifts into second it can snap the weaker direct drive inner shaft as it applies power all at once with no slippage. This is with the "lock up" type converter. When you have a "non lockup" type converter the direct drive shaft isn't coupled directly to the engine it is fluid coupled through the TC. This allows the TC to absorb some the shock through slippage and keep the direct drive inner shaft from snapping. You also get torque multiplication through TC with a non lock up vs a lock up in 3rd

The downside to the non lock up is that since it is slipping in 3rd and OD in the TC it isn't as efficient and your gas milage and such will usually suffer some. So if it is primarily a street car or a DD then I would go lock up but if it is just a weekend car then I would go non lock up. These of course are my personal opinions and we all know about opinions

If you are going to do a reseal on it then I would replace the OD band while you have it apart. Beats the heck out of putting it back together and having it smoke a few months down the road. And put in the A++ super servo while your at it. This will increase the longevity of the OD band. I would still refrain from making gong WOT while in OD.

In addition to what everyone else suggested I would also highly recommend an external tranny cooler. Help prolong the AODs life. And synthetic fluids too.

leroy93lx said:

In addition to what everyone else suggested I would also highly recommend an external tranny cooler. Help prolong the AODs life. And synthetic fluids too.

Click to expand...

Very true. Especially if you go with a higher stall converter. A nice stacked plate cooler will keep your AOD alive for a long time.

You can't put a cam in a SD car. Your ECU will go nuts and it will be undriveable. You NEED mass air. Or a standalone. Whichever's cheaper.

SD cars are real picky about cams due to the differences in vacuum that an aftermarket cam can cause vs. the stock cam. Basically the SD computer determines how much fuel to add by cross checking the vacuum signal against a table stored in the computer. This is a pretty simplistic description and there are definitely more variables but as the vacuum signal changes due to different cam then it screws with the computer and its fuel tables. A MAF conversion can be done relatively in expensively with a MAF computer, MAF sensor and conversion kit. You can reuse the existing wiring harnesses and just repin a few wires and add a few. There are some good write ups here on stangnet and over at corral.

As far as the lock up vs non lockup.

If the car is your DD I would probably go lockup. It will be better on fuel and with the hardened input shaft you will be fine. If it is a track car/occasional driver I would go non lock up. The choice is yours. You can also call the guys at Edge Racing converters and tell them what you want to do with the car and how you will you use it and I am sure they can tell you which style would suit your application best.

For the cooler just get a stacked plate style cooler, about as big as you can fit.
Here is a like to Baumann Controls price list. Scroll down and they have a list of coolers and their sizes and such
http://becontrols.com/pricing.htm

RS200 said:

You can't put a cam in a SD car. Your ECU will go nuts and it will be undriveable. You NEED mass air. Or a standalone. Whichever's cheaper.

Click to expand...

You can cam an SD car but you choices are VERY limited. But in his case a MAF conversion would be the best thing.

MoneygrubbinCar said:

What does SD car mean? . I will add the MAF conversion to my list of things to do. Looks like I'll be goin slow for quite a while just completing the suspension and tranny alone before I get to start on the motor .

Click to expand...

sd = speed density. early foxes came with speed density, and i think around '88 (i'm sure someone can correct me) they switched over to mass air. From what i've gathered on here, sd cars are actually a little quicker, but mass air cars take much better to major modifications

88 was the last year for SD, speed density, except for the cali cars. They got MAF in 88.

And bloopbloop is right stock out of the box SD cars are quicker but the mods are more limited.