What parts are important when building a high revving 302/5.0?
I have been thinking of starting a project engine. N/A with possible spray.
I have been thinking of starting a project engine. N/A with possible spray.
Building a High Revving 5.0 How to's:
- Thread starter 90mustangGT
- Start date
bit
Founding Member
How high reving are you wanting to go? I spin mine to 6500rpms with stock(rebuilt) bottom end, Steeda #19, and 10psi of boost. On the dyno she was still pulling hard at 6500RPMs.
1. Precision balancing and machining! If it vibrates, it'll come apart.
2. Open and smooth oil passages.
3. Lightweight rotating assembly, valvetrain, and drivetrain. Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft, gun-drilled axles, lightweight brakes and wheels, Titanium valves and retainers, Teflon valve seals, lightweight pushrods, and so on.
4. Forged crank, lightened, oil passages champhered, "knife-edged" counterweights.
5. Elimination/reduction of accessories. Electric water pump, removal of A/C, electric fan, aluminum underdrive pulleys, and so on.
6. Big radiator and 7qt oil pan. Heat will kill an engine.
The stock HO block will not put up with much abuse with its weak webbing and 2-bolt mains. Consider something like a Dart or FMS R302 if you plan on seeing routine blasts above 7000RPM.
Basically, the more power that can be sent to the pavement, the quicker and higher it will rev. Elimination of parasitic drag is essential. You have to look at what is inside the engine, as well as any rotational drag...right on back to the tires.
2. Open and smooth oil passages.
3. Lightweight rotating assembly, valvetrain, and drivetrain. Aluminum flywheel/driveshaft, gun-drilled axles, lightweight brakes and wheels, Titanium valves and retainers, Teflon valve seals, lightweight pushrods, and so on.
4. Forged crank, lightened, oil passages champhered, "knife-edged" counterweights.
5. Elimination/reduction of accessories. Electric water pump, removal of A/C, electric fan, aluminum underdrive pulleys, and so on.
6. Big radiator and 7qt oil pan. Heat will kill an engine.
The stock HO block will not put up with much abuse with its weak webbing and 2-bolt mains. Consider something like a Dart or FMS R302 if you plan on seeing routine blasts above 7000RPM.
Basically, the more power that can be sent to the pavement, the quicker and higher it will rev. Elimination of parasitic drag is essential. You have to look at what is inside the engine, as well as any rotational drag...right on back to the tires.
I was thinking around the 7000rpm range. If I do this, I plan on putting AFR's on it, either 165 or 185's with the spring upgrade package. Here is my idea:
This is what I am sure about, correct me if I am wrong:
Balanced bottom end to racing specs.
Lightweight forged pistons.
Hardened pushrods with guides.
Main Stud girtle.
ARP bolts/studs.
Aluminum flywheel SFI spec balanced.
Hardened oil pump driveshaft.
Roller Rockers, I currently have Crane Cams 1.7's.
Romac Balancer which I currently have.
What about:
Lifters? Solid Roller vs. Hydrolic Roller: I have heard that solid roller lifters are better because they don't get "pump up" but just need more adjustments.
Rods? Are stockers good or would it be really worth it to go with stronger lighter units.
One day, I want to build a turbo motor, but that will cost alot and I really don't have the money for that, I am trying to be realistic. I am a automotive technician's assistant right now. So I guess I am still a student. I could make more money right now, but I am sacrficing pay for experience and knowlege from a master tech of more than 25 years, and this guy knows his stuff better than anyone I have met before, it will probally be a couple of years before I make the good money, but for now I want to build something simple but mean.
If I am need a different crank, I would go with a 331 or maby a 347.
This is what I am sure about, correct me if I am wrong:
Balanced bottom end to racing specs.
Lightweight forged pistons.
Hardened pushrods with guides.
Main Stud girtle.
ARP bolts/studs.
Aluminum flywheel SFI spec balanced.
Hardened oil pump driveshaft.
Roller Rockers, I currently have Crane Cams 1.7's.
Romac Balancer which I currently have.
What about:
Lifters? Solid Roller vs. Hydrolic Roller: I have heard that solid roller lifters are better because they don't get "pump up" but just need more adjustments.
Rods? Are stockers good or would it be really worth it to go with stronger lighter units.
One day, I want to build a turbo motor, but that will cost alot and I really don't have the money for that, I am trying to be realistic. I am a automotive technician's assistant right now. So I guess I am still a student. I could make more money right now, but I am sacrficing pay for experience and knowlege from a master tech of more than 25 years, and this guy knows his stuff better than anyone I have met before, it will probally be a couple of years before I make the good money, but for now I want to build something simple but mean.
If I am need a different crank, I would go with a 331 or maby a 347.
Xtreme Limits
Founding Member
GOOD flowing heads is a must, good intake, cam is ok to go hydroic roller as long as you get a custom cam
, just look what they did in the late 60's earliy 70's, little 302's , ford and chevys, cranking 7500-9000rpms all day long on trans am cars
Best to get everything forged good balance job, stong block(dart,r302) , afr, victor jr., pro topline heads, and a good cam and intake and 7500 shouldnt be a problem, if you want more, 8000+ titanum valves/retainer, aluminum flywheel/driveshaft combo, and a very very good clutch
, just look what they did in the late 60's earliy 70's, little 302's , ford and chevys, cranking 7500-9000rpms all day long on trans am carsBest to get everything forged good balance job, stong block(dart,r302) , afr, victor jr., pro topline heads, and a good cam and intake and 7500 shouldnt be a problem, if you want more, 8000+ titanum valves/retainer, aluminum flywheel/driveshaft combo, and a very very good clutch
Xtreme Limits
Founding Member
