Bumpsteer kit, balljoint & bushing questions

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Kerpal

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Aug 9, 2004

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Jun 19, 2005

#1

• Jun 19, 2005

• #1

My alignment is getting pretty out of whack and I'm thinking worn out tie rod ends probably have a lot to do with it. I'm planning to lower my car about 1.2" within a few months, but I need to fix the steering asap since it seems to be getting progressively worse. Is it okay to run a bumpsteer kit with the stock springs?

I was told the tie rods should be exactly paralell to the ground, but they seem to be at a slight angle... maybe due to springs sagging & worn isolators (although the car doesn't sit that low), what do you guys think?

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And yeah, before anyone points out the mess I'll be replacing that speeping water pump and then powerwashing everything under there very soon...

I'm suspecting I need to replace my balljoints & control arm bushings as well since I can definately feel some slop in the front suspension when braking hard... Are regular parts store brand balljoints acceptable quality? I've heard that the Steeda X2 balljoints are beneficial when swapping to SN95 spindles, but they won't fit '79-'93 spindles... is this correct? As far as urethane control arm bushings, do you guys have any brand preference?

Thanks for any advice...

 

K

Kerpal

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Aug 9, 2004

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Jun 20, 2005

#2

• Jun 20, 2005

• #2

anyone?

 

dderek

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Feb 29, 2004

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Jun 20, 2005

#3

• Jun 20, 2005

• #3

yeah my steeda book says their balljoints wont fit stock fox brakes. but it will fit the ford conversion kit that takes it to 11".. so i dont know.
also
my haynes says our balljoints cant be replaced, without replacing the whole control arm.

and i have a bad balljoint im sure.
so.. i dont know what to do.

dont really want to swap control arms right now

 

K

Kerpal

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Aug 9, 2004

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Jun 20, 2005

#4

• Jun 20, 2005

• #4

Hmm... can anyone comment on that? I've never heard that before, but I'd think the Haynes manual would be a pretty accurate source...

 

ramjetlx

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Apr 8, 2005

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Honolulu, Hawaii

Jun 20, 2005

#5

• Jun 20, 2005

• #5

I am using the steeda bumpsteer kit with Eibach pro springs. The outer tie rods also sit at a slight angle. I would replace your tie rods first and see if it fixes your problem. Adding springs will only make things worse. I ended up replacing the entire steering rack,tie rods and steering pump, except for the control arms. Makes a huge difference. Try also checking the rubber bushing in your upper struts. They have a tendency to wear out(check for cracks) on high mileage cars and greatly affect your alignment and strut movement. The cheapest route would be to replace it with urethane bushings, or buy c/c plates if you have the money.

 

K

Kerpal

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Jun 21, 2005

#6

• Jun 21, 2005

• #6

Thanks for the advice... I was wondering if the strut bushings might be also be worn. Are c/c plates compatible with stock springs & struts?

 

88POSLX

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Sep 16, 2002

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Red Deer, AB

Jun 21, 2005

#7

• Jun 21, 2005

• #7

Kerpal said:

Hmm... can anyone comment on that? I've never heard that before, but I'd think the Haynes manual would be a pretty accurate source...

Click to expand...

You can change the balljoints. Check the link in my signature...

 

ramjetlx

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Apr 8, 2005

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Honolulu, Hawaii

Jun 22, 2005

#8

• Jun 22, 2005

• #8

Kerpal said:

Thanks for the advice... I was wondering if the strut bushings might be also be worn. Are c/c plates compatible with stock springs & struts?

Click to expand...

Yes they are compatible. I just installed Steeda c/c plates yesterday. It was fairly easy except for removing the strut nut. It was rusted so I had to remove the strut to take it off. Its a simple job, just labor intensive. Its well worth the 200 dollars I spent. It replaces the rubber bushings, the plate is 100xs thicker and stronger then the stock ones, and caster can now be adjusted. They are definately helpful with lowering springs.

 

K

Kerpal

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Jun 23, 2005

#9

• Jun 23, 2005

• #9

Nice writeup 88POSLX. Anyone know of a writeup on replacing the control arm bushings? I'm assuming it'll be pretty straightforward, especially if I'm doing the balljoints at the same time.

 

trents99

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Jun 28, 2002

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Hampton, GA

Jun 24, 2005

#10

• Jun 24, 2005

• #10

Just an FYI for you guys that the Ford Racing A-Arms are back ordered until August 25th unless you get lucky and find a place that bought some before hand and have them on the shelf. 50resto and GEF Racing don't have any right now.

As for ball joints get the 94-95 ones since they are a bit shorter and don't require the use of spacers if you swap to the SN95 brakes up front.

 

K

Kerpal

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Aug 9, 2004

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Jun 24, 2005

#11

• Jun 24, 2005

• #11

Can you elaborate about the '94-'95 ball joints? Will they fit my stock '90 spindles/brakes with no problems?

I am planning to do a 5 lug conversion eventually...

 

LoudToy958

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Mar 30, 2005

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Bremerton, WA

Jun 24, 2005

#12

• Jun 24, 2005

• #12

Kerpal said:

Nice writeup 88POSLX. Anyone know of a writeup on replacing the control arm bushings? I'm assuming it'll be pretty straightforward, especially if I'm doing the balljoints at the same time.

Click to expand...

The a-arm bushing are not so easy without a press. They practiacally have to be cut out of there. I just did everything mentioned on this thread. Steeda x2s, bumpsteer kit, caster camber, a-arm bushings, and almost every other front suspension bushing I could replace.

I have a 94 though, so I didn't have all of these what if's.

Check the cardomain site in my sig, and you can see all the various components close up.

 

trents99

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Jun 28, 2002

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Hampton, GA

Jun 24, 2005

#13

• Jun 24, 2005

• #13

Kerpal said:

Can you elaborate about the '94-'95 ball joints? Will they fit my stock '90 spindles/brakes with no problems?

I am planning to do a 5 lug conversion eventually...

Click to expand...

While the ball joints fit no problem I don't believe they will work in the Fox spindle. The 94-95s have a shorter shaft on the ball joint. If you tried to use them on the Fox spindle I don't think you would be able to put the castle nut back on or if you could it wouldn't tighten down far enough to put the cotter pin back in.

I'm not 100% positive on that though so somebody correct me if I'm wrong.