Bushing trouble.. hardware siezed to sleeve..

Mavrick

Founding Member
Aug 29, 2002
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Collingwood, ON
I'll be tackling my front control arm bushings soon, and wanted to see if anyone has any tips as to how i can go about doing this. A 5gallon compressor and air tools couldn't crack the bolts loose. For those of you who don't know, the bolt that holds the control arm to the K-member has siezed to the inner sleeve of the bushing.

I'm sure a little heat will take the nuts off, but how can i get the siezed bolt out of the bushing? I don't think there is much room for a sawzall up there?

I'm sure this will be a pain.. but worth it after i upgrade to hard urethane bushings! The old ones are cracked like hell...

Thanks
 
I broke 2 impact sockets trying to take mine loose when I was pulling the K-member. One with my impact that is 1000lbs, and the other with me pulling on a 36" strong arm.

I was switching the entire K-member so I just bought new bolts...your situation is a little different.

Soak them in some PB Blaster or similar loosener, just be careful if you apply heat since it is a flammable liquid. IF you get the nut off, you could use a punch that will fit through the bushing to hammer the bolt out. I assume your spring is already out, be careful with those, support the arm so you don't damage the brakes.
 
Ya.. i'm using C springs, they are super short and don't give me too much trouble installing/removing. I've had them in and out a few times already.. keep changing my mind! Ball joints.. back together.. 73mm upgrade, back together, new struts and sprindles drilled for bump steer kit, back together... SN95 conversion and its still apart.

HISSIN, its the back that your thinking of.. i got them all with the sawzall. Pain in the ass that was, but nothing compared to the front. I'll just keep soaking the nuts and try to get them with the johnson bar.. if all else fails, ill buy some new sawzall blades and go to town.

I am getting new hardware either way as the rusted bolts will be weak i'm sure.. the ones i got out of the rear were half the diameter they should have been in the middle!
 
I would go with heat -- I find it incredibly useful in situations like this. I would start by getting the nut off, and in the process you may break loose some of the other rust and gunk that is in the bushing.
 
89MustangGX said:
I would go with heat -- I find it incredibly useful in situations like this. I would start by getting the nut off, and in the process you may break loose some of the other rust and gunk that is in the bushing.
I agree. I have a small propane torch that I keep in my garage. It has come in handy several times. :nice:
 
Mavrick said:
Will take a heck of a lot of time with these little propane torches i have, but i guess it's worth a try!

The one that I use is the size like you would connect to a small camping stove or lantern. It doesnt' take long -- usually a few minutes of moving it around the nut/bolt will get it hot enough that you can get it. You'll probably still need a good breaker bar (maybe a pipe too), but it should hopefully come out.

Note: even though it's a little torch, it will be extremely hot for a few minutes -- don't touch! :nonono:
 
Ya, i've had a fair share of burns.. you learn eventually. I'm referring tot he same torch you are.. aparently they have different head pieces, some burn hotter than others. Ill have to head to the hardware store tomorrow and see what i can find.
 
Mavrick said:
I'll just keep soaking the nuts and try to get them with the johnson bar.
or you could use some penetrating oil and a breaker bar. :p



my bad - sorry about my mixing up the fronts and rears. at least i remembered you had issues with it before. :)

good luck with it!