bushings

mustang95gt

New Member
May 7, 2004
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Okay here we go. I have a 1995 Mustang Gt all stock, Yes I know one of the few. My car seems to like to wonder on the road and I seen a post about a problem like this and it was noted to replace the bushings in the front of the car. I am now looking at energy suspension with the hope of fixing this problem.I do know the bushings I have on the care are crack and are on there last leg. I wanted to know if it is very hard to replace the bushings due that I have never done this before? Also due you think this will fix my problem or do I need to look at a new rack for the care? Thanks for everyone that read this. :shrug:
 
mustang95gt said:
Okay here we go. I have a 1995 Mustang Gt all stock, Yes I know one of the few. My car seems to like to wonder on the road and I seen a post about a problem like this and it was noted to replace the bushings in the front of the car. I am now looking at energy suspension with the hope of fixing this problem.I do know the bushings I have on the care are crack and are on there last leg. I wanted to know if it is very hard to replace the bushings due that I have never done this before? Also due you think this will fix my problem or do I need to look at a new rack for the care? Thanks for everyone that read this. :shrug:

Might not be the bushings. Is the car lowered? Could be tie rod ends, ball joints, alignment. Could be bushings.

I just replaced almost every front suspension part on the car. Springs, Struts, ball joints, a-arm bushings, spring isolators, Caster Camber plates, Next week will be Steeda bump steer kit, and the sway bar Kit.

It was not easy. Took a lot of time, a lot of patiance. I had to walk away a few times to get things straight in my head. A-arm bushings and ball joints I had pressed in at a shop. Hard to do on your own. Possible, just hard.

If you decide to go this route, I will deffinetly be willing to offer my opinions. They aren't cheap ones, but nothing with me is. LT

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Thanks for the pics.I had the ball joints alignment,done. I was told my tie rod ends looked good.Also I have not lowered the car at this time.I still have the stock springs on and did all the shocks and struts(kyb).Let me know what you think.
 
Not much left up there but the bushings. Rack bushings, A-arm bushings, end links, sway bar mounts.

I can't really say they made a difference. I will let you know tomarrow if you like. I still haven't driven it yet since the install. Still waiting for the calipers. I should have those on tonight though, then all I have to do is install the rear springs.

Wondering usually has to do with the tie rod ends, but I guess if your bushings are worn enough, your front end would be pretty loose. I know my old stuff came out easy, it was a fight getting the new stuff in. Much tighter. Let me know what you decide............LT
 
i agree with LT (it looks purdy under there). :)
so is there an issue with something, or are you going off the visual inspection? i agree with LT about pressing the LCA bushings. i took my arms to the machine shop.

it would have made sense to do the bushings when the ball joints were done, if you are paying someone to do it.

as for your question, poly (ES, PST, et al) are worth it, i think. i try to put poly in anytime i renew bushings. it just holds up better and is more oil/ozone, etc resistant.

good luck.
 
Well I took the car to the ford dealer and they said the rack was okay but they have also been wrong on so many things I just dont know if they are right. I also toke the care a repair shop and they said its the rack but they also said my timing cover is leaking and it turn out when they put a new water pump on for me they did not make sure all the bolds were tight. So at this time I have two diff places tell me two diff things.
 
if you yank on the rack, you might be able to notice rack-mount bushing deflection.

for tie rods, if the front end is in the air, if you pull or push in a tire at 3 and 9 o'clock, there should be no movement (or if there is, there should be no slop before the other wheel turns). note that you should check for slop at 12 and 6 o'clock first, to rule out wheel bearing and other issues, which can invalidate the 3 and 9 o'clock test.

for general steering slop, dont forget about the rag joint.

bad LCA bushings tend to show their slop while braking heavily. if one or both wheels toes out heavily while braking, that is a sign.

i swapped to poly LCA and anti-sway bushings (no spring change) and it made a large difference in compression stiffness/travel.

good luck.