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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Buying a 1983 Mustang GT, what to look for...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1fast83
  • Start date Start date Apr 26, 2011
1

1fast83

New Member
Apr 26, 2011
1
0
0
West Georgia
Apr 26, 2011
#1
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #1
This is my first post to StangNet, just registered. I am going to buy a 1983 Mustang GT later this week, I am new to Mustangs, and would like to know if there is anything I should look for before completing the deal? The car is running and driven daily for the most part.

Just curious if there are any spots prone to rust or anything I should be looking for. I plan on parking it in the basement for a while, and dropping in a newly built 331.

Thanks -Joe
 
F

FoxTail

Member
Jan 2, 2011
35
0
6
Central Illinois
Apr 26, 2011
#2
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #2
Watch all the areas around the windows, especially on the rear hatch for rust. Check inside the cowl (under the wipers), a lot of times non garaged stangs will keep leaves, trash, etc in there and create rust.

If it has had a tranny swap check out the crossmember, did they just weld some crap in there or did they do it right? Can always be changed back to normal or right, but its a bargaining point if its crap.

Check out the torque boxes, a lot of guys wait to late to find out that they are seperating.

Don't let the guy know your doing an engine swap. That way if it's a worn out 5.0 in there, he can't say "well your changing it anyway". Another bargaining point.

Check out the seals around the back quarter glass, more than likely they are starting to go just like the rest of ours.

Just a few pointers, I have only been in the mustang thing about 6 months now. I have a lot to learn to, a lot of knowledgable guys on here will chime in I am sure. Overall whatever you get, just dont get in a rush with your projects and have fun.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
17
89
Dallas, GA
Apr 26, 2011
#3
  • Apr 26, 2011
  • #3
Mechanical things can be fixed, and body parts are easily replaced. Those things are good for price negotiations, but there are some things that are real deal breakers. Like mentioned before, Really look around the rear torque boxes, where the rear suspension meets the chassis. Check the subframes and the overall straightness of the car. Any rust more than surface rust. Check the rear between the rear glass and the back seat area glass, see if that's twisted. A car that is drag raced hard will usually have it wrinkled up right there. Any of these areas are areas that either can't be fixed, or the amount of time/labor/money to be spent fixing it makes it really not worth it.
 

jgarrard

Member
Apr 3, 2010
90
0
7
Gadsden,Al
Apr 27, 2011
#4
  • Apr 27, 2011
  • #4
Got any pics to share?
 

citmov

10 Year Member
Sep 25, 2009
632
12
49
Chi-town
Apr 27, 2011
#5
  • Apr 27, 2011
  • #5
you should check for rust here:
-shock towers
-fender antennae
-all 4 points where the roof connects to the rest of the body
-door hinges (where hinge meets body)
-underneath (get that car in the air!)
-and obviously fender & quarters lips
-open the rear hatch and lift up the carpet.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
May 4, 2011
#6
  • May 4, 2011
  • #6
Most important area are the shock towers, floor boards, and truck floor. Areas on the body panels acan be easily replaced or fixed. Rotted towers and other uni-body areas are more serious to get fixed and would actually make the sale void for me.
 
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