C&C Plates and still negative camber

BlackenedSVT · May 9, 2007

My stang has Eibach pro-kit lowering springs on it, with Steeda 3 bolt Caster & Camber plates. I also have a Steeda Strut Tower brace which looks like it ALMOST gets in the way of the C/C plates when adjusting for an alignment, but i dont think it does.

bottom line, I am getting a reading of -1.5* negative camber on EACH wheel in the front. And the plates are maxed out. I can't adjust them any farther....

Are there any other aftermarket C/C plates I should look into getting to get my camber back in spec?

I've debated porting some of the walls out of the steeda ones to make the camber adjust correctly, but thats last resort, i'd much rather just buy ones that will work.

Anyone else have similar problems?

...the car has a clean title and hasn't been in an accident to my knowledge, so I'll ad in nothing is bent out of whack. Just can't get the car past -1.5 negative camber. Its way out of spec and it has eaten my last set of tires a bit on the outside treads and now that i have new wheels and new tires on, i'd like to correct this ASAP.

- Jay

KWIK HUH · May 9, 2007

Try these out...they're suppose to give up to 2 more degrees of adjustability.

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=135

fatboy02gt · May 10, 2007

maximum motorsports has the best plates you can get. and they tell you exactly where to put the alignment specs for the car.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/

RoadconeTuning · May 10, 2007

the problem is you used crappy 3-bolt plates...

get Maximum Motorsports 4-bolts...

03ghoststang · May 10, 2007

there is two slots on the steeda ones depending on which one you have it in itwill either give you more camber or keep it around the stock specs and it will be the smae deal with the caster.....

merc123 · May 10, 2007

I didn't need CC plates with my pro-kit?

I bought them anyway for a furture mod but I didn't NEED them

GDawg · May 10, 2007

Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates hands down if you can't get it into spec camber. I love them.

BlackenedSVT · May 10, 2007

got a link to a good spot to by some M&M C/C plates? Do i HAVE to get the 4 bolts? Dont feel like drilling throught the strut tower...

SaleenGT2001 · May 10, 2007

they only come in 4 bolt.

a cheap alternative would to be installing an 18MM cam bolt in place of one of your strut bolts. they are like $20 for a pair and will give you about 1.5 degrees more movement.

SaleenGT2001 · May 10, 2007

i can get you a pair of cam bolts if you're interested just PM me.

BlackenedSVT · May 10, 2007

SaleenGT2001 said:
i can get you a pair of cam bolts if you're interested just PM me.

They look like the ones in that link someone posted above? What do you do with them exactly? Can't say i've ever seen or heard of those before

twogts4us · May 10, 2007

SteedaGTJ22 said:
got a link to a good spot to by some M&M C/C plates? Do i HAVE to get the 4 bolts? Dont feel like drilling throught the strut tower...

Why? They show you exactly where to drill and it's not difficult at all - don't skimp on suspension parts bro!

BennyBlown2v · May 10, 2007

Cam bolts will help. Also, you can just file the top strut-spindle hole on the strut, then move it max positive, then tighten down - then adjust with CC plates.

1.5* isn't that bad...tires will go faster, but it'll handle quite a bit better.

SaleenGT2001 · May 10, 2007

it goes in placeof the strut bolt. then you just rotate the bolt till it comes out all the way posative. once you get it installed it is easy to understand how it works

DerekStangGT · May 11, 2007

i dont understand what the problem is bro. do you want to adjust more positive or more negative camber? -1.5* is not a whole lot. hell, i've been at -2.0* on both sides in the front for the past 3 years or so with no problems. tires wear evenly (keeping air pressure correct) and handling feels much better than stock specs.

SaleenGT2001 · May 11, 2007

-1.5 is a LOT. -2 is terrible!

he needs more positive camber. i run about -0.5 on my car

DerekStangGT · May 11, 2007

SaleenGT2001 said:
-1.5 is a LOT. -2 is terrible!

he needs more positive camber. i run about -0.5 on my car

DerekStangGT said:
i dont understand what the problem is bro. do you want to adjust more positive or more negative camber? -1.5* is not a whole lot. hell, i've been at -2.0* on both sides in the front for the past 3 years or so with no problems. tires wear evenly (keeping air pressure correct) and handling feels much better than stock specs.

nyuk98gt · May 13, 2007

Chaps:

-1.5 degrees is perfectly fine for street driving and it will not result in excessive wear.

SteedaGTJ22:

The M/M plates have the provision for the 4th bolt but can be installed with only three.

Check that the toe-in is per Ford's spec. Incorrect toe will wear your tires out very quickly.

Chris

Skud · May 13, 2007

I literally JUST got back from the alignment shop. So this is good timing..

Ford's STOCK specs for camber are -1.0 to -0.2. I had them set mine at -1.2.

For caster, the stock specs are +2.5 to +4.0. I had them set it to +4.6.

So, your -1.5 is actually "good" for handling.. The only thing I would worry about is the fact that you're at the limit of your C/C plates. But - it's up to you whether or not it bothers you.

Riley

C&C Plates and still negative camber

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