Can I use the WMS velocity TB to MAF tube instead of a C&L true flow pipe with a 80mm C&L meter with no ill effects? It matches the polished look of the Accufab plenum much better! Also the WMS is ceramic coated while the C&L is metal which ='s more heat, right?
I never successfully got my old C&L and WMS tube to play nice. Always got check engine codes for a lean condition. I switched to Pro-M and went full-boogie WMS setup.
The WMS tube is ceramic coated, but its not made of ceramic- thus it is still a metal tube. The ceramic coating does reduces heat transfer, but its still a lot more conductive than pure ceramic.
Don't get hung up on material of construction for intake tubing. The residence time of the air in the inlet is too small to transfer a large amount of heat anyway...
I never successfully got my old C&L and WMS tube to play nice. Always got check engine codes for a lean condition. I switched to Pro-M and went full-boogie WMS setup.
The WMS tube is ceramic coated, but its not made of ceramic- thus it is still a metal tube. The ceramic coating does reduces heat transfer, but its still a lot more conductive than pure ceramic.
Don't get hung up on material of construction for intake tubing. The residence time of the air in the inlet is too small to transfer a large amount of heat anyway...
When you say "WMS tube" do you mean the 90* bend velocity tube or the TB to MAF inlet pipe? I know you can't use the 90* fenderwell portion with it!
So do you recommend I just use the true flow pipe from C&L?
Yes, I mean the MAF-to-TB tube. My recommendation is sell the C&L and go with the Pro-M. I fought the C&L fight long and hard, but it gave me inconsitent results and most aftermarket tuners hate it.
If you are dead-red on keeping the C&L, go with the tube they designed. Like I said, I never good get the WMS piece to work with it...
Yes, I mean the MAF-to-TB tube. My recommendation is sell the C&L and go with the Pro-M. I fought the C&L fight long and hard, but it gave me inconsitent results and most aftermarket tuners hate it.
If you are dead-red on keeping the C&L, go with the tube they designed. Like I said, I never good get the WMS piece to work with it...
The WMS tube is ceramic coated, but its not made of ceramic- thus it is still a metal tube. The ceramic coating does reduces heat transfer, but its still a lot more conductive than pure ceramic.
Don't get hung up on material of construction for intake tubing. The residence time of the air in the inlet is too small to transfer a large amount of heat anyway...
Hmmm, that's the cobra tube right? I got one of their new MAF/TB tubes for my GT and it's an injection molded rubber thing (kinda like the connectors on the cobra kit) that does not transfer heat at all, and instead of having two connector bungs, it only has one and comes with a little K&N breather filter for the engine line. Works great with the stock TB.
Hmmm, that's the cobra tube right? I got one of their new MAF/TB tubes for my GT and it's an injection molded rubber thing (kinda like the connectors on the cobra kit) that does not transfer heat at all, and instead of having two connector bungs, it only has one and comes with a little K&N breather filter for the engine line. Works great with the stock TB.
I just emailed WMS and they said that the breather was $12 extra and only needed if you purchase the MAF/TB tube, I wonder why? Do you have it connected to the stock airbox? Do you have a stock MAF?