C4 shift linkage

Kriek

New Member
Feb 12, 2004
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Dallas, TX
Hey guys, I’ve owned a 1964 1/2 Mustang Coupe for about 5 years now. More recently I’ve had problems shifting into park. The C4 has a B&M shifter and I suspect that somehow the linkage is binding now. As I’ve had to disconnect the linkage from the shifter and manually push the linkage into park from inside the car. Note the shifter came with the car and has never caused me any problems untill now. But before I do anything else Id like to understand specifically how to adjust the linkage properly.

My shop manual states:

Place the transmission selector lever in the D position. Jack-up and support the car. Working underneath the car, loosen the manual lever shift rod retaining nut and position the transmission manual lever in the D detent. With the transmission selector and manual lever in the D positions, tighten the retaining nut to a torque of 10 to 20 lbf ft. Check the operation of the transmission in each selector lever position.

One of the problems is that I’m not exactly sure where drive is supposed to be underneath the car. Do I count neutral as a click? (1 Park, 2 Reverse, 3 Neutral, 4 Drive, 5 Second, 6 First). Also, what exactly is the manual lever shift rod-retaining nut? I think I accidentally loosened the kick down (spring loaded metal handle, pulls down, has a hole to connect a cable perhaps). When I am placing the transmission into drive underneath the car should I disconnect the linkage there first? It has a carter pin (actually a nail now) holding the linkage in place. There are hundreds of questions running through my head right now and I’ve just spent five and a half hours trying to understand most of it. But I am willing to learn! Thanks for any help or suggestions.

- Jon
 
There should be 2 jamb nuts where the cable mounts to the servo bracket, loosen them up and adjust the cable so it will push the rod forward a tad more ( pushing the lever forward into park). on my my megashifter you can also take the pin that fits into the C4's shift lever and screw it clockwise or couunter clockwise on the bar itself to make adjustments, it took a bit of playing with to get it just right but in total it took me about 5 minutes to get it perfect. The nail :notnice: in your setup may be causing your prob if it's allowing some play in the linkage? Might also check to make sure the cable hasnt chaffed through or melted to anything. Also make sure that when it's in neutral that the arm is pointing streight at the ground. :shrug:
 
I have gone through this recently, and it was after several weeks of studying and getting pissed that I learned that the B&M shifter has 2 parks.

I'll explain. look at the shifter and notice the distance between the gears on your shifter that say D R 1 2 3 notice park is twice the distance from R than the rest.

I forget why, and I will try an d dig the documentation on why they did this.

What you need to do is detach the cable, and put the shifter in the 1st park location (closest to R) then put the Transmission in Park w/ your hand. Attach the cable.

Now when you put it in park, you will shiftall the way forward to lock it in.

I did this, and I haven't had any problems with it. If you need pics or have more questions, I documented the whole painin the ass adventure. :)
 
DissFigured, I noticed this before and couldnt quite figure it out or its purpose.

DissFigured said:
Put the Transmission in Park w/ your hand
Do you mean underneath or inside the car? Does it matter?

DissFigured said:
I forget why, and I will try and dig the documentation on why they did this.
Something to do with the GM park position?

Thank you all again.

- Jon
 
DissFigured, ok, I followed your instructions and managed to attach the linkage from park to the shifter in the first park slot (closest to R). The first couple of times that I shifted from drive to park were gold; went straight into park, however now it wont shift into park anymore. There IS an adjustment screw where the linkage connects to the transmission underneath the car. Perhaps I need to adjust that again?

Thanks again for all your help.

- Jon
 
That will definately help.
When I had the issue, I did what you described, and then I had to jack with that adjustment near the tranny a few times before I got it working.

And since doing it, I never use the wratchet shifting. I shift conservitavely.

To make it a bit easier, rather than adjusting it on the tranny end, you can do it all from inside the car.

I threaded it a good distance into the nut on the transmission, and then detatched it on the inside of the car. There should be a loop like an eyelet where it hooks to the shifter. Put a small screwdriver through that eyelet for leverage and you can twist that to screw and un screw it from the nut on the transmission linkage. Basically, you are adjusting it at the transmission without having to be under the car. Do this a few times until you get it shifting good then you must look under the car one more time and verify that it is still in good.
 
Great! Yeah, I noticed that the eyelet/loop turned pretty freely - thought I might have broken the linkage, lol. I'll adjust it from the inside, as I don’t have a place to work on her currently where I can jack up the car enough to get underneath again. Thanks again for your help!

- Jon
 
I twisted the eyelet/loop with a screwdriver to adjust the linkage from inside the car and then connected the linkage to the shifter, except when I looked underneath the car the linkage had unscrewed itself from the transmission. I reattached the linkage to the transmission, but the shifter wont go into park. So I disconnected the linkage from the shifter again and tried to manually push the linkage into park from inside the car, no dice, doesn’t work now. I had to get my girlfriend to hold down the brakes, while I snaked underneath the car and put the transmission into park with my hand. If it’s not too much to ask and if it’s not to far out of your way, would you mind stopping by and taking a look at her? I’ve left my phone number with you via email.
 
I can come out to your place and assist if you still need, but it may be next week before I have the time. In the meantime, this should fix your problem.

1. disconnect the cable from the shifter.

2. put the B&M shifter in park (the one closest to reverse) so you still have room to travel forward.

3. manually put the car in park at the transmission by hand w/ that lever on the transmission

4. once it is in park, loosen the bolt that holds that shifting arm on the transmission so it rotates freely and the car stays in park. Dont unscrew it all the way. Note, this part is a bit of a pain as it may be hard to get to. I hated doing it.

5. Now, make sure the threaded end of the cable is threaded into the shifting arm on the transmission really good.

6. Now when you pull the cable back and fourth, you are moving the arm on the transmission rather than threading and unthreading the cable from the arm.
So, attach the cable to the shifter in the car. You may need to unscrew the cable a bit, but not so much that it detaches.

7. Once you have the cable hooked back up to the shifter, you will be in the following situation:
* Cable is hooked to the shifter.
* Cable is threaded well into shifting arm on transmission.
* Shifter is in "half parked" position.
* Transmission is in "Full Parked" position
* Shifting arm is loose so you can't change gears w/ the shifter yet.

So, tighten the shifter arm bolt back.

This should line everything up so that you can shift into all the gears and when you put it in park, you are really getting it locked in good.


Anyway, let me know how that works. I may be available to assist on Wednesday evening this week. but I have to double check w/ the wife. If this does not help, I will give you a call. The steps above are exactly what I ended up doing, but I have a FMX transmission. I am not sure how much different it is than your C4. I am not much of a mechenic, I have only had my car since March so this is all very new to me.
 
DissFigured said:
4. once it is in park, loosen the bolt that holds that shifting arm on the transmission so it rotates freely and the car stays in park. Dont unscrew it all the way. Note, this part is a bit of a pain as it may be hard to get to. I hated doing it.
That’s most likely where I went wrong. I never loosened the bolt. I'll try this out as soon as possible and let you know how it goes. Your help and advice is much appreciated. Thanks again.
 
I'll be working on the car tonight. Haven’t had a break in my schedule until now. So if you still can come out, it would be helpful and very much appreciated. I’m pretty much out of minutes on the first number, but give me a call on the second number if you’re available tonight. Either way I appreciate your help.
 
The shifter linkage broke near the eyelet/loop. Do I need to replace the entire linkage? Or is it segmented somewhere? Where would I purchase the linkage? Should I attempt to install the linkage myself or have a mechanic do it? I've spent countless hours trying to understand and properly adjust the linkage myself, so a lot can be said about my willingness to learn how to install the linkage as well. However, I am on a fairly tight budget and short time frame. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
 
I'll contact B&M for a direct replacement of the shifter cable. Its either 80604 (4ft. Cable) or 80605 (5ft. Cable) for B&M shifters 1981 to present (With eyelet on one end and threads on the other).
 
I left a message for B&M, they should call me back on Monday and I can order the shifter cable. Any ideas on where else I could buy one that may be cheaper, or other words of wisdom about installation?