Calling Turbo Guys!

Maf is must(unless you put it in a 5" pipe or run twins with 1 maf)!

For what it's worth my 2/100$ now...:

Pmas extended maf

1/4 horse / tuner pro

On 3 or

Or flip headers and build hot side, if you can tig - build it all, if not ebay unaversale.

42lbs+ injectors (ev6)

Fuel pump

Ebay turbo buy them 2 at a time for all it matters...

.083 steel headgasket.

Don't over build or think "while I'm here"... it's a sbf... you can stripit to bare block in an evening... a running car is the best motivation. Waiting on parts, money, or to get everything perfect... is how you end up the guy with a 5 year project that will be ready next spring every year that you don't do anything with and sell for penuts un finished.
 
FWIW I have seen the CX racing kits come up pretty frequently on local CL and really cheap too, like 750-800. No personal experience but I know other guys who have had fitment issues. The on3 kit seems to have improved quality and they have everything you need plus upgrade options. The most fun car Ive been in was on3 powered notch. Stock block and cam, built AOD, 3.27 gears, just silly.
 
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FWIW I have seen the CX racing kits come up pretty frequently on local CL and really cheap too, like 750-800. No personal experience but I know other guys who have had fitment issues. The on3 kit seems to have improved quality and they have everything you need plus upgrade options. The most fun car Ive been in was on3 powered notch. Stock block and cam, built AOD, 3.27 gears, just silly.

I like the cx racing kit because it seems to have a little nicer parts, comes with y pipe, and it seems to all be stainless. However, those headers are just a monstrosity. The on3 kit does look better engineered, but I think I would upgrade the turbo over the base.
My parts to sell would include:
Headers $200
MAF $125
Injectors $125
FMS Extender $125
Nitrous stuff $500-$600
I would need new injectors, possibly a new fuel pump and the PIMP, so another $1500. I would also want to wrap most everything too. Lol, even cheap ain't cheap.

Joe
 
If I had it all to do over again, I'd probably build mine, ONLY because I don't like the was On3 runs their downpipe. @Boosted92LX has the kit and you damn near have to take the entire engine apart to get to the spark plugs. That being said, if I built another, I'd be a little more patient with my fabrication. It's.... shoddy but was a great learning experience. I have a set of shorties on the shelf I'll give you if you decide to go this route.

Anyway, these turbos are great and many, many people make 700+ on modest tunes. I have the same one, except the billet. For your purposes, I think the standard 76/65 that comes with the on3 would be too small and this would fit the bill a lot better
https://www.vsracing.net/catalog/pr...=1364&osCsid=43ab48f7bbf2f5292fc8532dd8da0bc3

Here's the billet wheel version
https://www.vsracing.net/catalog/pr...=1375&osCsid=43ab48f7bbf2f5292fc8532dd8da0bc3
 
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I bought the On3 kit back in December and installed it when swapping out my old stock motor for a 306 FR crate. I don't have many miles on the car yet as I'm still finishing up the tune and a few other things but can give you my thoughts on the kit so far.

I'm quite happy with the hot and cold side parts. They fit well and the only spot I had a bit of trouble was getting the crossover tube to mate up between the headers but the flex joint they use makes that pretty easy if you have a buddy to help. I had my hot side ceramic coated to not have to worry about wrapping anything. The downpipe and turbo blanket On3 sells is definitely worth it IMO and does a good job keeping heat away from the other nearby parts.

The hot side v-band clamps they give you are absolute junk and will fail the first time you remove them. I ordered ones from Racepart Solutions for all of the hot side connections and they work 100x better. I took others' advice and didn't use the manual boost controller they provide and instead use an electronic solenoid that I can control from my PiMPxs (MS3 ECU).

I'm also looking at waste gates from a better brand as well since the On3 ones are notoriously bad quality and not something you want to fail.

As far as spark plugs, while it's a moderate pain to do the passenger side, I've done it 3 times now by myself and it only requires removing the elbow going to the throttle body and then unbolting the downpipe from the turbo and the rest of the exhaust and tilting up and out of the way. I don't bother removing it completely since I can keep my wideband sensor installed in this way and it makes it easier to get back into place again.

Ldnvl6bJg6DAcLTZrJvcAcxHsBhWwbyr80ufeBWST5it0kSHncExc-C_3UOSokWRSty7BSA2a3zz1HeejC=w1331-h999...webp


I took pictures pretty much every step of the way during the install so if you have any specific questions or want to see how anything fits/looks just let me know and I'd be happy to share. All that being said, when you feel that boost kick in for the first time it makes all the work so freakin worth it! :D
 
I bought the On3 kit back in December and installed it when swapping out my old stock motor for a 306 FR crate. I don't have many miles on the car yet as I'm still finishing up the tune and a few other things but can give you my thoughts on the kit so far.

I'm quite happy with the hot and cold side parts. They fit well and the only spot I had a bit of trouble was getting the crossover tube to mate up between the headers but the flex joint they use makes that pretty easy if you have a buddy to help. I had my hot side ceramic coated to not have to worry about wrapping anything. The downpipe and turbo blanket On3 sells is definitely worth it IMO and does a good job keeping heat away from the other nearby parts.

The hot side v-band clamps they give you are absolute junk and will fail the first time you remove them. I ordered ones from Racepart Solutions for all of the hot side connections and they work 100x better. I took others' advice and didn't use the manual boost controller they provide and instead use an electronic solenoid that I can control from my PiMPxs (MS3 ECU).

I'm also looking at waste gates from a better brand as well since the On3 ones are notoriously bad quality and not something you want to fail.

As far as spark plugs, while it's a moderate pain to do the passenger side, I've done it 3 times now by myself and it only requires removing the elbow going to the throttle body and then unbolting the downpipe from the turbo and the rest of the exhaust and tilting up and out of the way. I don't bother removing it completely since I can keep my wideband sensor installed in this way and it makes it easier to get back into place again.

Ldnvl6bJg6DAcLTZrJvcAcxHsBhWwbyr80ufeBWST5it0kSHncExc-C_3UOSokWRSty7BSA2a3zz1HeejC=w1331-h999...webp


I took pictures pretty much every step of the way during the install so if you have any specific questions or want to see how anything fits/looks just let me know and I'd be happy to share. All that being said, when you feel that boost kick in for the first time it makes all the work so freakin worth it! :D
That's great feedback, thanks!
the stock maf is only good for around 900 kg/hr. the more are you flow The more voltage the sensor sends back. But, it only goes up to 5v. So your computer and injectors don't know the difference between 900 or say 1400

I think most Ditch the maf and go speed density with the aftermarket ecu.

Joe
 
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I couldn't comment because of the fact that you were looking to build a kit. Nothing is in kit form in my life.

I can/do recommend that you stay away from the Chinee Wastegate. I had Godspeed Junkers on mine when I first brought it out, and they let so much air past them, it took 13-15 psi to open a 5 pound spring.

TurboSmart.

TurboSmart 38mm gates are 230.00. For that investment, you get the old 2 bolt flange style,.....but you get a gate that's dead on whatever it's spring is rated at.

This time around I'm using a Chinee turbo, so time will tell...ill be either cussing it or not soon enough.
 
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Just FYI.... I can access my spark plugs on my on3 kit withot removing or unplugging the downpipe or the intake piping. I use a 3in extension, a swivel, and a stubby ratchet.