Caltrac transfer link lock nuts & preload?

6

66Runt

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Jun 11, 2005

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Sep 28, 2005

#1

• Sep 28, 2005

• #1

Just got a set of Caltracs today. Noticed there are only lock nuts at the front spring pivot end of the transfer link.

For those of you that have had these on for a while, have you noticed any wear in the thread 'serts at the shackle end of the transfer link? Is there a reason not to use lock nuts at both ends?

Also how much preload are you running on the street (if any)? and how much at the dragstrip/Auto-x/Opentrack?

Thanks,

Scott

 

jasonn

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Sep 26, 2002

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By Rochester MN

Sep 29, 2005

#2

• Sep 29, 2005

• #2

66Runt said:

Just got a set of Caltracs today. Noticed there are only lock nuts at the front spring pivot end of the transfer link.

For those of you that have had these on for a while, have you noticed any wear in the thread 'serts at the shackle end of the transfer link? Is there a reason not to use lock nuts at both ends?

Also how much preload are you running on the street (if any)? and how much at the dragstrip/Auto-x/Opentrack?

Thanks,

Scott

Click to expand...

I don't see any need for 2 nuts. Once one is locked the whole setup cannot move. Never seeen any wear anywhere. I leave mine setup on the street at about 1/4 preload on the bottom hole. But my car is pretty radical also. Every car will react differently so you'll just kind of have to play with the preload.

 

6

66Runt

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Jun 11, 2005

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Sep 29, 2005

#3

• Sep 29, 2005

• #3

Thanks Jason

The main reason to have a nut at each end is to keep the threads from taking all the punishment. But I haven't seen a picture of any with nuts at both ends, and with you saying there is no play, I'm in agreement that it will be a none issue. Besides it would only take about 10 minutes to check both sides during future maintenance anyways.

Thanks for your insight, and for your setup. I was hoping more people would chime in on that part. I totally agree about different cars needing different settings. It wouldn't take too many different stetups to get a base line that would help in tuning the rear end.

Scott

 

thehueypilot

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Feb 25, 2004

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Medina,Tennessee

Sep 29, 2005

#4

• Sep 29, 2005

• #4

You need at least one lock nut per end to keep the tube from turning and like you said to lock the threads. Mine came with one on each end so I pulled the instructions back out and it does only show one. If you use them on the street a lot you don't need any pre-load. I use 1/4 turn pre-load on both sides for the drag strip with Rancho 9000's on setting #6. I did replace the aluminum bushing with a "Delrin" bushing because I could not stand the noise that carried into the interior.

 

302 coupe

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Mar 2, 2000

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36

Macon, Ga.

Sep 30, 2005

#5

• Sep 30, 2005

• #5

I run mine on the bottom hole, with about 1/2 turn of preload. I tuned mine at the strip, kept adding preload until wheel hop went away. One nut at each end, still running aluminum bushings, do a good bit of street driving and haven't had any problems. 1.82 60 fts on 225/60 street tires.

 

6

66Runt

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Jun 11, 2005

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Sep 30, 2005

#6

• Sep 30, 2005

• #6

Thanks guys

Doesn't take much preload that's for sure!
Be interesting to see how it works for brake hop.

Have any of you noticed any difference in brake hop when entering a corner hard on the binders?

Scott

 

thehueypilot

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Feb 25, 2004

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Medina,Tennessee

Sep 30, 2005

#7

• Sep 30, 2005

• #7

I only drive hard in a straight line so I can't help you there.

 

F

fastback brian

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Jul 15, 2002

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So Cal , I.E.

Oct 1, 2005

#8

• Oct 1, 2005

• #8

thread wear no but the steel spacer tube for the front bushing will wear out at the plates if daily driven. keep them lubed and all should be good, and maybe its best not to have preload for daily driving.

 

6

66Runt

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Jun 11, 2005

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Oct 1, 2005

#9

• Oct 1, 2005

• #9

Delrin Bushing sounds like a good idea

I may copy that. Makes life much simpler. This car will be lucky to see 5k miles per year, so it's more for the sound transmission then anything.

 

thehueypilot

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Medina,Tennessee

Oct 2, 2005

#10

• Oct 2, 2005

• #10

66Runt said:

I may copy that. Makes life much simpler. This car will be lucky to see 5k miles per year, so it's more for the sound transmission then anything.

Click to expand...

I did not know if I explained what "Delrin" is? It is the toughest plastic that Dupont makes so you will have to get a machine shop to make it for you. It is tough enough to not to distort under load, but soft enough not to transmit noise. Maybe the company that sells Caltracs will offer it as an option for steet cars that see a little track time.

 

6

66Runt

Member

Jun 11, 2005

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Oct 2, 2005

#11

• Oct 2, 2005

• #11

Delrin is a great material to machine

It also ages well.
I'd rather machine Delrin than aluminum, at least Delrin doesn't clog up your tools.

Thanks for the idea. I wonder if anyone has suggested it to them?