Cam and lifter job......

[Apsychotic]

Hello all, I have a 302 engine, 75 model, and the lifters are starting to stick in it. I am thinking about putting in a street/strip type cam and lifters. I have never tackled this type of task, and was wondering if someone could tell me how hard of a job this is? What do I do? and finally, do i use hydraulic or solid lifters for more performance/dependability/drivability? I drive this car on a pretty regular basis, and need vacum, but still want loads of power and a semi-lopey idle. thanks! Norm

 

[1badII]

A cam won't help you out much if you're running stock heads. I'd go hydraulic though.

 

[Mstng2]

You can go very lumpy with the cam even with the stock heads, BUT you need to make sure you can get past local emmisions or find a way around them. DO NOT USE SOLID LIFTERS, best left to ultra high performance applications. Best choice for a good cam would be Performer RPM Cam set, or equivalent. Make sure you buy a matched set. springs, lifters, pushrods, cam. It should still give you enough vacuum for the II's needs. If you are high mileage you may need cam bearings but most of the time your OK. So heres a brief run down of the job.
1) Set engine at TDC.
2) Pull radiator, and all the front stuff, Alternator pwr st. water pump timing cover.
3) Pull Distributor, mark rotor position with tire crayon.
4) Pull intake and valve covers.
5) Pull timing chain/gears (replace if worn)
6) Remove rocker arms, springs, pushrods, and lifters.
7) Pull old cam, look at the journals for excessive wear. Use a flashlight and inspect cam bearings for excessive wear, scratches, worn spots.
8) Re-install new cam, USE TONS OF CAM LUBE/ASSEMBLY LUBE
9) Re-install everything else in reverse order.
10) CHANGE OIL PRIOR TO START UP.
11) FOLLOW CAM BREAKIN INSTRUCTIONS!
12) Record Cool Rumble clip to post on list.
13) Have a Beer, or Soda...

Did I miss anything guys?

 

[zwhitr]

You can go very lumpy with the cam even with the stock heads, BUT you need to make sure you can get past local emmisions or find a way around them. DO NOT USE SOLID LIFTERS, best left to ultra high performance applications. Best choice for a good cam would be Performer RPM Cam set, or equivalent. Make sure you buy a matched set. springs, lifters, pushrods, cam. It should still give you enough vacuum for the II's needs. If you are high mileage you may need cam bearings but most of the time your OK. So heres a brief run down of the job.
1) Set engine at TDC.
2) Pull radiator, and all the front stuff, Alternator pwr st. water pump timing cover.
3) Pull Distributor, mark rotor position with tire crayon.
4) Pull intake and valve covers.
5) Pull timing chain/gears (replace if worn)
6) Remove rocker arms, springs, pushrods, and lifters.
7) Pull old cam, look at the journals for excessive wear. Use a flashlight and inspect cam bearings for excessive wear, scratches, worn spots.
8) Re-install new cam, USE TONS OF CAM LUBE/ASSEMBLY LUBE
9) Re-install everything else in reverse order.
10) CHANGE OIL PRIOR TO START UP.
11) FOLLOW CAM BREAKIN INSTRUCTIONS!
12) Record Cool Rumble clip to post on list.
13) Have a Beer, or Soda...

Did I miss anything guys?

I agree except # 5 replace replace timing chains always wear get a good double roller from summit or equiv

#6 after pulling the valve covers you will need to get 2 tools to replace springs the one is a bar like tool that compresses the srprings down and the other is a fitting that screws down into the cylinder to hold valve up while changing the springs ( I have heard of stuffing rag or rope into the cylinder hole but never tried it make sure the piston is at TDC) ps you will also need an air source to apply the the fitting.