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Cam For Stock Motor

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mavros
  • Start date Start date May 6, 2015
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Mavros

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#1
  • May 6, 2015
  • #1
Found this cam for a steal of a deal brand new. Just curious if it'll work well on a stock motor. I understand that heads and intake will no doubt make the most out of a cam swap but would it hurt to throw it in before I get them.
 

cleanLX

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#2
  • May 6, 2015
  • #2
the text below is stolen from a reputable cam designer.
hope this helps and good luck

A stock motor needs a very conservative seat duration, with hefty ramp rate. Then a stock motor needs exhaust lobe positioning more in line with what a restricted motor requires; ie delayed exh (narrower LSA).

I have said many times that the 270/270, 215/215, 110 comp is a very nice OTS cam for the Ford 5.0 that will cover a reasonably wide range typical mods (while utilizing the stock heads). It will not work well with the stock exh system, but throw on headers and decent 2 1/2" dual system and it will really do well. There are extremely needed valve spring upgrades required, though. Its not for everyone, but if the intent is to keep the drivability stock-like, with max rpms in the 5300-5500 region then the Comp can work extremely well.
 

rbohm

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#3
  • May 6, 2015
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that cam will work in the stock engine, but remember a few things;

1: if you use the stock valve springs, then keep engine rpms UNDER 5500rpm.

2: you should have no valve to piston clearance issues as long as you are using stock rocker arms.

3: if you want to take full advantage of that cam, you needs to upgrade the top end of the engine, including valve springs.
 
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Mavros

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#4
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If I wanted to go ahead and upgrade the springs which ones should I go with? What rpm can I safely run then?
I had some some vacuum issues so I pulled the intake off to replace all the cracked hoses and do some basic maintenance stuff, so I figured while I have it off it couldn't hurt to throw that cam in cause I picked it up stupid cheap. I am in the process of building a 347 with a spare motor I have but it'll be at least 12 months or so till that's done so this is just a little ah why not kinda project.
 
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Mavros

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May 7, 2015
#5
  • May 7, 2015
  • #5
Trick Flow Mustang Valve Spring Upgrade Kit For OE Style Cast Iron Heads (79-95) 5.0 5.8 2500100

This should do the trick right
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#6
  • May 7, 2015
  • #6
Those will work. I personally wouldn't spend a dime on upgrading stock heads(for a cam or anything else). You will not see hardly any performance upgrade. Might see a little lumpy idle and sound better but that's about it. If that's all you're really wanting then I say go for it. Just my .02
 

2000xp8

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#7
  • May 8, 2015
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More work than it's worth.
Cams in general are dirt cheap used.
So even if you got it for free, it's still not worth the trouble on stock engine.
Stock E7 headed 302's aren't like Ls2's and Ls6's you don't pick up 40hp with a cam swap.
All the power in these cars is in the heads.
 
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rbohm

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#8
  • May 8, 2015
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Mavros said:
If I wanted to go ahead and upgrade the springs which ones should I go with? What rpm can I safely run then?
I had some some vacuum issues so I pulled the intake off to replace all the cracked hoses and do some basic maintenance stuff, so I figured while I have it off it couldn't hurt to throw that cam in cause I picked it up stupid cheap. I am in the process of building a 347 with a spare motor I have but it'll be at least 12 months or so till that's done so this is just a little ah why not kinda project.
Click to expand...

upgrading the springs to what the cam manufacturer recommends means you can turn up to 6500rpm, that gives you 500 rpm more than the point where that cam noses over with stock heads.

and while its true that the stock heads will restrict the ultimate power output, contrary to what the others are saying that cam will let you pick up about 30hp, which you can feel. better heads and you will pick up even more.
 

Noobz347

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#9
  • May 8, 2015
  • #9
Mavros said:
Found this cam for a steal of a deal brand new
Click to expand...

Should have said, "Found this cam and decided to take a gamble".

That cam is now one of those things that will sit on your shelf waiting for the magical matching build to come along. Don't feel bad. I have one that's been collecting dust for more than 20 years. I pitty the fool that makes me use it.

I might put it into a shadow box and display it.
 

mikestang63

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#10
  • May 8, 2015
  • #10
Agreed. Swapping in a cam with stock E7's , stock Intake, is like a waste of time and money.
 

Onefine88

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#11
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I too agree! Alot of work for maybe 10-20 hp? I once bought an '87 vert that the previous owner had installed an E cam on the otherwise completely stock engine.
That car made 228 to the tires. LOL
 
Last edited: May 8, 2015

2000xp8

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#12
  • May 9, 2015
  • #12
Onefine88 said:
I too agree! Alot of work for maybe 10-20 hp? I once bought an '87 vert that the previous owner had installed an E cam on the otherwise completely stock engine.
That car made 228 to the tires. LOL
Click to expand...

A bolt on car with full exhaust, K&N in the box and under drive pulley's can make close to that number.
So i'd say the cam is worth less than 10rwhp and if it floats valves (like mine did back in the day) the number is less.

Sure did sound fast though, at idle.
 
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Onefine88

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2000xp8 said:
A bolt on car with full exhaust, K&N in the box and under drive pulley's can make close to that number.
So i'd say the cam is worth less than 10rwhp and if it floats valves (like mine did back in the day) the number is less.

Sure did sound fast though, at idle.
Click to expand...
Agreed!
My 88 vert made 239/298 to the tires on the "stock cam", stock heads and block, 65mm tb on a ported stock intake with 1/2" spacer. I also had underdrive pulleys, electric fan, FRPP headers, Bassani catted xpipe with Flowmasters. "All the usual bolt ons"
That was FUN power with 3.73's.

Of course I finally got serious with it a couple years ago
 

rbohm

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#14
  • May 9, 2015
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all you guys telling him not to install the cam because it is too much work for 20hp, are forgetting that he is planning to upgrade the heads and intake later on. may as well do the cam swap now.
 

mikestang63

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#15
  • May 9, 2015
  • #15
rbohm said:
all you guys telling him not to install the cam because it is too much work for 20hp, are forgetting that he is planning to upgrade the heads and intake later on. may as well do the cam swap now.
Click to expand...

Why not wait and do it all at once? Why pull the intake, timing cover,,radiator, valve covers, balancer, new gaskets, fluids, etc/ twice?
 
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rbohm

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#16
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mikestang63 said:
Why not wait and do it all at once? Why pull the intake, timing cover,,radiator, valve covers, balancer, new gaskets, fluids, etc/ twice?
Click to expand...

that would be ideal, but suppose he doesnt have the money for the heads and other stuff right now? unless the cam is stored properly the lobes will start to rust, and the lifters will start to gum up, etc. he can install the cam now and save for the heads and stuff. besides it will give him some good experience to tear down the engine and put it back together a couple of times.
 

mikestang63

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#17
  • May 9, 2015
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rbohm said:
that would be ideal, but suppose he doesnt have the money for the heads and other stuff right now? unless the cam is stored properly the lobes will start to rust, and the lifters will start to gum up, etc. he can install the cam now and save for the heads and stuff. besides it will give him some good experience to tear down the engine and put it back together a couple of times.
Click to expand...

cmon man Camshaft will rust? That's just silly. Oil the cam,put it in a large ziplock or small garbage bag, put it in the box and keep it inside and it will be fine. You think a cam you buy from Summit, Jegs, etc. doesn't sit on a shelf for weeks or months? Cold temperature and humidity are what causes rust. I've stored cams for years oiled up in mewspaper wrapped in duct tape and they are fine.

Practice tearing down a motor? You are talking about spending hours pulling the motor apart, wasting money on parts, fluids, gaskets. He's not training to be an ASE mechanic. If he doesn't have the money for the heads, intake, etc. why waste the money on parts now. Why would the lifters gum up? If he's changing the oil regularly there is no reason for them to gum up. I'd be changing the lifters anyway when changing cams unless they are very low miles. Cheap insurance.
 
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rbohm

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#18
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i am not talking about lifters in the engine, i am talking about lifters sitting on the shelf waiting to go into an engine. you dont reuse old flat tappet lifters, that is stupid.

and note that i said IF THE CAM IS NOT STORED PROPERLY it will start to rust. remember it is a carbon based steel. try to use some reading comprehension please?
 

mikestang63

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#19
  • May 10, 2015
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rbohm said:
i am not talking about lifters in the engine, i am talking about lifters sitting on the shelf waiting to go into an engine. you dont reuse old flat tappet lifters, that is stupid.

and note that i said IF THE CAM IS NOT STORED PROPERLY it will start to rust. remember it is a carbon based steel. try to use some reading comprehension please?
Click to expand...

RIght, and I said how hard is it to oil and bag a cam vs. wasting money and time doing a cam install on an other wise stock motor.. Which makes more sense?
 

2000xp8

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#20
  • May 10, 2015
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I assure you, the cam isn't worth 20hp.
And doing the cam by itself is probably equivalent of throwing 300 bucks (maybe even more) in the garbage. Gaskets, fluids, cleaning supplies and valve springs for stock heads and whatever else comes up is going to cost money. Money that could be put towards the heads you can't afford right now.

I literally had an engine with just a cam, it was a dumb idea and I speak about an engine that was out of the car. When I got better heads I still changed the cam.
And as I said, it floated valves, so if you think you can get away without springs, you can't.
 
Last edited: May 10, 2015
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